2006 Itasca Model 35U Passenger Side Window Problem

The problem window is the passenger side fixed tinted 10" x 48" glass pane window above the fore-aft sliding window.

This past year this double pane glass has begun to have the inner (between glass) seal around the outer entire perimeter of the pane begin to come loose and sag down-outward from the perimeter edges. This results in a slight interior water leak from the outside as the inner seal separates and sags/droops 2-3 inches into the interior space of the double pane.

Questions:

1. Has anyone experienced a similar problem with this glass pane?

2. Is the fix a trip to the nearby Winne factory for a complete  R & R of the entire-complete window frame and R & R of the one defective glass panel? ???

I'm already bracing for the pain in the wallet for this pane's problem. :


Charlie

Charlie - Winnebago factory service will undoubtedly replace the window, and if you are considering them for the replacement, call ahead so they can order it or at least find out if they have it in stock.  They stock thousands and thousands of parts, but there would be a good chance they wouldn't have your specific window on hand.

I have heard about windows being repaired, and I think here in The RV Forum.  You might want to do a search and see what hits you get.

John Canfield said:

Charlie - Winnebago factory service will undoubtedly replace the window, and if you are considering them for the replacement, call ahead so they can order it or at least find out if they have it in stock.  They stock thousands and thousands of parts, but there would be a good chance they wouldn't have your specific window on hand.

I have heard about windows being repaired, and I think here in The RV Forum.  You might want to do a search and see what hits you get.

Click to expand...

John,

Sounds like a plan..will do.

Charlie

I keep a list of the things you fix Charlie... since you are one year ahead of me with a 2006, our 2007 will likely have the same issues in a year or so sometimes I fix them B4 they break.  Thanks for all your detective work!!!

Gary,

Glad you are benefiting....

Looks like a trip to factory around first week in May for window swap out and a few other items needed. I'm seeing what appears to be a slight roof cap separation under the main slide out roller cover where the long tie down rail secures to the coach. Could be upper flap force on cover tugging that rail and roof cap edge and it might need special Winnie seal-glue to resnug.

I'd say now you seriously should consider a time change and upgrade to the #1 fan outer blower bearing in the Coleman basement air conditioner and possible early replacement of that #1 blower squirrel cage too..I have custom DIY procedures courtesy of "Duner" on the forum...save you 700-800 dollars.

Just did complete swap out and upgrade of house and engine batts too..they were ready. Good/30-40% more AGM deep cycle reserve juice really makes a difference..

PM me when ready to tackle these..I'll give you my cell number to help/further discuss too..I'm in e-mail contact with Duner as well.

Charlie

I already did the batteries... I put in 4 6v GC2's in the tray that had 3 12v Gp 31's, 420amp-hrs instead of 300 (barely).  Haven't done the engine batteries yet. 

If you can send the A/C upgrade procedures, that's deeply appreciated.  $800 will buy groceries for 2-3 months.

Already finished the LCD TV change.

Finished a lot of interior bracing and cabinet doublers to stop some of the squeaks in the kitchen/b'room

Installed a surge/voltage controller

I put a bungee to keep the cable bundle between the battery trays and the transmission from hanging too low, IMO.

We got a dash cover to accommodate the dogs

I fixed the convertible couch so it wouldn't "lock-up" in the "bed" position.  One small c-clamp to limit the travel of the 4 bar linkage on the aft side.

I found a new radio/cd player that was being liquidated for $80 to replace the OEM unit which was starting to go off intermittantly.  There are better aftermarket units but at least it is compatible with the sat radio system.

I re-built the solenoid for the HWH system so I have a spare.  I vividly remember all your help with that crisis!

I just added a 12" extension to the receiver hitch to give the Jeep/towbar more clearance when turning tight corners.  I put some sheet metal shims between the hitch and the receiver to reduce the clearance and stop most of the side to side motion.

I didn't realize I was buying myself another job when I bought this MH... LOL.

I just finished modifying the Coleman grill to distribute heat better and raise the grill a bit so that the meat doesn't burn on the outside.

thanks, G.

A quick question, I don't want to hijack the thread.
How did you get the 4 6volt batteries to fit? I don't see enough vertical clearance for them. I have 3 12Volt trojan group 31s (original batts)

I'd love to see a picture of your triple 6 volts in the original battery tray if you could swing it!

Best Regards!

If  (Old Snipe) is referring to me.
I have 3 12 volt group 31s and if I could figure out how, I would post a picture. :'(

if I could figure out how, I would post a picture

Click to expand...

When writing the message, click on "Additional Options" and you can attach up to 12 images to your message.  The size restrictions are defined below the attachment entry.  Click on "more attachment" to add more than 1.

This is not available in the Quick Reply however.

battery pics are at:

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=28770.msg278149#msg278149

clearance is about 1/4 inch... but it does clear and once the tray is "in" the clearance is more like 1.5".  Had to modify the battery "hold-down" rods.

thanks, G.