1986 coachman fuel system problems

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gregory robert

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May 11, 2010
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Hey guys or gals, I'm getting ready to take a trip to canada with my dad, sons and uncles and am having a problem with the fuel pump. it does sit in storage alot because we only use it about twice a year. one question is can you put a mechanical fuel pump on the 460 ford engine, or should I replace the sending unit and pump in the tank. Also, I have a frame rail canister filter and was wondering if there is another in-line filter closer to the carb. Hoping to leave on the 19th of June any help is appreciated.
 
My 86 Allegro has both an inline and one in the carb. It is a 454.
 
I would be concerned that the mechanincal pump can pull the fuel all the way from the rear.  Ours has an electric fuel pump just outside of the tank.  It has (2) inline filters, one either side of the pump and a pressure relief valve just before the carb.  The engine is also a Ford 460.
 
Don't know if it will help, but we have an article in our forum library on replacing the in-tank fuel pump on a Ford chassis. Click the Library button above and look under Tech Topics.
 
Hey everyone, thanks for your responses, I am going to be working on the motorhome today, I'll keep you posted on what transpires. glad I found this forum. Greg :)
 
    I have a 30` pace arrow (83), aso with a rear tank. The engine driven pump works fine, but I also have a bendicks electric pump in line with a manual switch for standby.
 
I believe the pump is in the tank, so you will need to drop the tank to fix a fuel pump problem. here's a copy of a post from another forum I got for another rver that was having fuel problems. Hope this helps.

Heres the instructions on how to do the fix.

Procedure for installing an auxiliary fuel pump on an F-53 Chassis
1. Remove the fuel filter. The filter is located between the chassis frame approximately below the drivers seat. This all has to be done from underneath the coach. The fuel lines connected to the filter has quick disconnects that require a special tool to disengage the locks. Tool can be purchased for less than $10.00. AC line disconnect tools can be used.

2. The filter is in a bracket that must be pried apart slightly to release the filter. Leave this bracket in place as it will be used to support the pump. The pump kit you get from Ford has a bracket also which you will not need. The kit has a piece of foam which is used to insulate the pump and prevent noise. The foam is wrapped around the pump and pump is installed in the above mention bracket.****

3. Install the fuel lines on the pump. Make sure you have the pump oriented correctly. The electrical connections will point toward the front of the coach. The fuel lines disconnected above will snap right on to the lines on the pump. There is one caveat here. You will not be able to disconnect the lines from the pump with the tool mentioned above; there is not enough space between the pump body and the quick disconnect to install the tool.*

4. Proceed to wire pump to 12 volt source. Pay attention to polarity of pump. I used a direct 25 amp source with ground directly back to the coach batteries. I installed a 25 amp switch on the dash and labeled it. The 12 volt source came directly from the battery with an inline fuse. You must turn pump on prior to starting the engine and turn it off upon stopping the engine.

5. Some folks could wire the pump using the ignition switch to turn the pump on and off. But this entails using a relay and more complicated wiring.

* When switching back to the fuel filter, I had to cut the fuel lines and take them off the vehicle. Then you can remove the locking fingers. Obtain new ones before reinstalling the lines. The lines were cut close to the body of the pump. This scraps the pump.

** This installation lasted about two/ three years on my coach. I eventually had to change out the main pump in the tank.

*** This installation also leaves you with out a filter in the system. You could by using the discarded bracket and having a special jumper line fabricated to use between the pump and filter, install the auxiliary pump. The pump would be installed down stream of the filter. The outlet line would also have to be shortened. In this case the filter would be left in place.

**** The Ford part number for the kit is, F6PZ9H307DB. I bought mine from Rockauto on the net. About half of Ford's price.

If you go to the post I PMed to you, please thank Jerry for finding his notes.
 
[quote author=SLJKansas] here's a copy of a post from another forum I got for another rver that was having fuel problems.[/quote]

Be advised that our forum rules prohibit the posting of content from other forums and web sites without the express permission of the author/copyright owner. In this case, the original author (a former forum staffer) contributed those instructions to our forum library. See here.
 
Tom

When I received the post I copied, I was upfront with the post supplier that I was going to send the information on. I didn't think passing it on to another RVer was going to be a problem this time.  I apolgize for making coping the post, and will send information in a private message the next time or point them to the original post.
 
I was upfront with the post supplier

That would be tough to do in this case, since the original author passed away a year or so ago. See this page. If indeed you did communicate that you'd be passing along his work, it would, at a minimum, be appropriate to mention the author's name. However, merely saying you'd pass along his work does not give you carte blanche to do so. Check our forum rules for an explanation of copyright rules and permissible quoting.

FWIW Karl was a very active member of our forum staff, and a competent, technical person who was respected by many on this forum. We all miss his presence here, and prefer that his work be given appropriate credit.
 
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