HELP! Out of storage water heater & refrigerator don't fire up. Stove works!

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Vancouverrver

New member
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Posts
2
I recently took my RV(1992 39' Gulfstream Tourmaster class A) out of storage. All appliances were working when stored. I tried to fire up the water heater and the red light that indicates the unit is clicking to fire it up was working. It is full of water. It wouldn't click, so I assumed it is the electrode, so i tried using a lighter when the gas would come on, and it fired up. However, it quickly shut off after five seconds. I tried cleaning the electrode, and making sure it was grounded. After a number of attempts, the red light inside stopped turning on, and the electrode stopped attempting to fire and the gas stopped. There is lots of LP and, the furnace fired and worked fine. So, i figured maybe the WH died. It is a suburban electric/LP model, and the Electric works(NOT WELL). The refrigerator was doing the same thing, except it would fire the pilot up, and shut off soon after, without firing the main burner. The refrigerator works on electric(not well) It always has worked better on propane. More heat i expect. Anyway, now the fridge won't even attempt to fire the pilot. A few days later the furnace stopped firing up. Any ideas? Now I know I have a bad ground, as when i was hooked up to a 20watt GFCI plug, it trips off. When not on a GFCI, i can get shocks when standing on wet ground and touch the frame. I was wondering if the poor ground could be the cause of all of the issues I am finding. Something is obviously different since last year at the end of the season. Any ideas or experience would be appreciated. All lights and other electrical outlets are working fine.
 
The electrical problem sounds a little wacky, and could certainly contribute.  I'm not sure why the appliances would stop attempting to light as you've described.

Have you run the stovetop burners for several minutes to get the propane moving through the lines?  Light them all and turn the gas on high for awhile (stay nearby) until the flame evens out and stops sputtering.  Then try your other various propane appliances.  Anytime my rig has sat unused for a period of time, air bubbles can get into the LP line and need to be exhausted before you'll get a reliable stream of propane to keep a pilot light on.
 
Check your DC voltage, also a little shock can be fatal get that checked quick. All the divices WH, heat. refer use 12 volt current. If its low on very low they will not operate.
Jim
 
SAFETY First.

Using a voltage meter check for voltage from the chassis to a known good ground (ground rod at the power pedestal would be good). It should be ZERO.

It it is not, check the polarity of the circuit outlet in the motorhome (I assume the polarity of the shore connection is good because of the GFCI). We a had an RV forum member whose chassis was hot because an RV tech reversed the polarity on the pass through AC on an inverter. RV Neutral and grounds should be isolated to protect you from reverse polarity, but in many coaches this has been violated or there are bad connections that allow some bleed through. In this case 35 volts was getting to the chassis - VERY dangerous. Once I found it, it was an easy fix.

BTW, he called me because he could keep tripping a GFCI outlet trying to get power to his coach.

ken
 
Lighting the stove is one way to get the air out of the lines. If that doesn't work, (I had an Allegro that was notorious for this) break the LP connection at the fitting nearest the heater and refrigerator slightly till you smell gas escaping. That will purge the air in the lines. Hopefully that helps.
 
From the sound of the propane appliances not working that your 12V system has low voltage.  If you are having trouble with the 110V side your converter may not be powering up the 12V side and charging the battery.
You do not need a ground for the GFCI to trip.  It just compares the current on the hot and neutral and if they are more than 5ma different it knows the current is going somewhere else and trips.  I wonder if you had a critter chew a wire that is touching the frame.
 
Back
Top Bottom