New project in the works - adding roof air

There is a 20 amp circuit (required for the AC unit) in the OnePlace center that runs to the engine block heater outlet that could probably be used, but I did not thoroughly investigate using that source.

Any chance of finding a good local RV service shop instead of CW?  The thought of CW attempting something like that on my coach is a little terrifying to me.

azloafer said:

Now that you have done it, do you think that there is an alternate place to pick up the electrical for the AC?  Could there be 120 in the OnePlace Panel?  Or how about coming up from the engine heater line in the power cabinet?  Thanks, Joe

Click to expand...

The OnePlace panel does provide 120VAC for the block heater but on my coach to my surprise, it is wired through the converter. It is on the same circuit as the TV's (front and rear) and the nightstand outlets. So I took that circuit off the inverter which was easy to do since those circuits come together at a junction box under the bed. So make sure to check if this is also the case with your coach. You don't want the inverter in your A/C electrical circuit.

Harry B said:

The OnePlace panel does provide 120VAC for the block heater but on my coach to my surprise, it is wired through the converter. It is on the same circuit as the TV's (front and rear) and the nightstand outlets. So I took that circuit off the inverter which was easy to do since those circuits come together at a junction box under the bed. So make sure to check if this is also the case with your coach. You don't want the inverter in your A/C electrical circuit.

Click to expand...

That's king of scary. I'll have to check that on mine, too.

Harry B said:

The OnePlace panel does provide 120VAC for the block heater but on my coach to my surprise, it is wired through the converter. It is on the same circuit as the TV's (front and rear) and the nightstand outlets. So I took that circuit off the inverter which was easy to do since those circuits come together at a junction box under the bed. So make sure to check if this is also the case with your coach. You don't want the inverter in your A/C electrical circuit.

Click to expand...

How did you "take the circuit off of the converter line" and still have it hot.  Did you remove it and then connect it to something else on the junction box, if so where?  I am not a knowledgeable person when it comes to electric or a lot of other things.  Were the wires labled?  I have never had the platform opened under the bed because the manual says there is no storage on the 39W.  Give me the procedure as in "AC for Dummies." please.  Joe

I disconnected the part of the circuit at the junction box (under the bed) that runs to the OnePlace for the engine block heater switch and the from there to the outlet in the electrical service bay. I added an 15 amp breaker and gave it it's own breaker that did no longer run via the 2000w Inverter.

The real reason I was in there was that I wanted to separate the power circuit to the front and rear TVs in order to add a separate 400W full sine wave inverter that  now powers just my TVs, satellite dish and DVD recorder, etc.

So I separated out both the TV circuit and engine block heater and gave each it's own 15A breaker without going through the 2000w inverter. Again this could all be done at the junction box under the bed, so it is an easy change to make.

Are those wires labled so that I will know what I am looking for? 
I happened to find this online.  Is it NOT complete?  Thanks for your help, Joe

Installing a roof mounted air conditioning unit to a camper
1. Step 1
Remove the old vent hardware. A Phillips head screwdriver can be used to remove the four screws in the bottom of the vent. This will drop the screen and allow the sliding vent door to be loosened. On the top of the RV's roof, unbolt the vent's dozen or so bolts around the outside lip of the vent. There might be roofing spackle that has hardened, preventing the bolts from being accessible. Scrape this off with a knife, then remove the bolts to free the vent. Wipe the area with cleaner.
2. Step 2
Raise the A/C unit to the roof, and install it into the hole. The surfaces around the top of the vent hole should be lined with foam sealer before letting the unit settle into place. Once the A/C is in, it should be braced with the provided bracket to the bottom of the vent hole.
3. Step 3
Splice the wiring to the A/C control panel plug. The panel is separate from the unit and has a small adapter plug with three wires coming from it. The wires--black, green and white--should be cut and spliced to the wires in the roof, then covered with a liberal amount of electrical tape.
4. Step 4
Mount the A/C control panel to the bottom of the vent opening. The bracket for the A/C unit will have screw tabs to secure the control panel and venting system to the upper half. Once this is in place, the A/C should be tested for operation.

No, they are not labeled. You are going to have to do some measuring as to which circuit you are dealing with.

I think that I am not capable enough to do this project. (handicapped)  I talked to the installers at Camping World again and asked a direct question: "have you done this before" and found that they have never actually done something like this, so I cancelled my appointment.  Now to search for someone else and get together with them.  If Forest City was not so far away I would get it done there.  It's a long trip from Arizona.  Joe

Surely you can find a good local RV service guy or shop that could tackle the project...

I have called several RV Service Centers and may have found one dealer that would tackle the project.  All the service techs (so far) only work on week days, so I'll continue the search on Monday.  Joe

azloafer.....let me be the first to welcome you over here!  Most of these folks know the Winnie product, and are very willing to help. 

The roof top air has been installed. It came in at $280 less than the original estimate; that was nice. I put the generator on and the Basement Air at high cool. It was drawing 22 amps. Then I put the new Coleman Mach 13,500 on at high cool and the One Place Panel showed a total amp use of 35. I turned the TV on and the panel read-out didn't change. With the microwave on the amp meter read 48. The Coleman Mach really throws a lot of cold air out. I wish the basement air had that much force. I did not run a test on the temperature inside versus outside because it happened to be a cloudy day and in the low 90's. I'll leave the test for another time when we camp in direct sun on a hot day.  The wiring went from the air conditioner, in a small short channel on the ceiling, hidden in the wall and down to the One Place Panel so that it would be included in the amp read-out. Then it went up and to the the shower wall and down to the floor and under the shower, under the sink cabinet, through the bottom of a long storage box under the window and to the circuit panel on the back wall of the bedroom. The wires cannot be seen. Since we do not have the optional washer/dryer unit installed, its 20 amp circuit was used for the new roof top air.

I wish there was a way to increase the flow of air from the basement unit. I think that it is cold enough, but it doesn't have enough force to push the air out like a roof top unit does. Joe

I have also followed and tried every suggestion in the forums for increasing the flow of air from the basement unit with negative results.  The Winnebago/Itasca Dealer who installed the roof unit said that all the basement units are weak, as far as moving the air.  They just don't move the air like a roof top unit.  Everything has been checked on the basement unit including the duct work.  I think the unit needs a much faster and/or larger fan to move the air.  The dealer had no suggestions.

Has anyone found a practical way to increase the air flow from the basement unit?  Joe

2008 Itasca 39W Diesel Pusher

Has anyone found a practical way to increase the air flow from the basement unit?

Click to expand...

I believe I have seen claims by some that the "new design" plastic squirrel cage blower puts out more air, but how do you measure "more" ??  I would think you first have to measure what the air flow is to begin with ... for instance, mine (original blowers) will blow a small piece of paper off the dining table (often happens when I am entering register receipts into the computer check resister) or a normal piece of paper off the co-pilot seat.  I guess the questions would have to be, how much flow is there, and how much do you want?

I really think some installations are somehow better than others ...whether is has to to with the duct work, the unit itself, or whatever....

azloafer said:

...Since we do not have the optional washer/dryer unit installed, its 20 amp circuit was used for the new roof top air. ...

Click to expand...

Good idea using that circuit!  Glad you had a successful project conclusion.

On the new 42QD, the ceiling ducting from the three roof airs is a formed duct with smooth walls which will greatly contribute to increased air velocity.  The Styrofoam ducting present in most other models has rough walls which increases air turbulence.  Only fix I can think of is to trade on a 42QD  .

Thanks for the update AZLoafer!    We had been waiting for John to do the "add a roof air" project for a couple of years now, and now we have TWO members reporting replacements here.  ;D

By the way, I am the one that has reported that RVP has asked us NOT to use the pleated filters, and use the cheapest fiberglass filter that you can see your hand through.....change them often for the best air flow.

I have physically dropped my basement air out (pulled and dropped by myself and my wife) before Duner's writeup, and not only do I think the fan flow motor is undersized, my dealer said that Winnie undersized the outflow duct.  I have also moved my thermistor to a new location which will cause the compressors to actually RUN when the outside ambient temperatures are under 65 or so......all the units are wired like this that I have found, until I moved the inside coil thermistor to the outside of the inside coil.  I haven't seen one solitary case of anybody's basement air compressors running when the outside ambient temps are below 65 or so degrees due to the original thermistor placement by RVP.  We live at 8,600 feet elevation, and prefer temps in the 60's at night when we travel down to the flat lands!!! 

afchap said:

I believe I have seen claims by some that the "new design" plastic squirrel cage blower puts out more air,

Click to expand...

I haven't seen or heard that the new plastic squirrel cage blower will put out more air....it just will not squeak as bad! 

We have the same RVP basement air/heat pump (2 ton)  in our fifth wheel as many Winnibago coaches have. The distribution using floor ducts leaves a lot to be desired, especially towards the nose (bedroom) of the trailer. I can feel a duct leak because of a very cold linoleum floor just where the ducts enter the raised section. The next project, in fact, is to somehow gain access to that spot via the storage underneath and do 'something' about it. Many Alfa owners have also added an additional air conditioner in the bedroom vent for this reason.

Another Alfa owner I heard from had used a Bilge blower (boaters know what that is!!) in the duct and it reportedly improved the airflow considerably. However, the fans of this type I have encountered are quite noisy, at least  the one on my sailboat was, so I am not sure of going that way just yet.

Furnace heat to the area is no great shakes either.... Just another project, (sigh), do they ever end???

Alfa38user, the key difference in the Winnebago system and the Alfa system, is that Winnebago ducts the cold air to the ceiling and through the ceiling roof vents vs Alfa who used the floor furnace vents.  I am still surprised that Alfa chose to use the floor furnace vents for the cold air distribution considering that heat rises.