Ford brake controller thinks the trailer isn't there

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acorey

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Posts
7
Hi -

I've been lurking on the forum for a while, but now have a question, so I'll start by introducing myself.  My wife & I have a 2009 Keystone Outback 26RLS travel trailer & tow with a 2009 Ford F250 V10 truck (using the Ford factory installed trailer brake controller).  We got the trailer & truck last fall & have been enjoying them since.  After years of tenting & then pop-up camping, it's nice to have amenities.  We're currently just weekend & vacation campers, but plan on doing some long term travelling as soon as we can manage.

Getting on to the problem - while towing last weekend, there was a brief chime, and then the dashboard message center flashed the message 'trailer disconnected'.  After getting parked, nothing appeared to be physically disconnected.  After disconnecting & reconnecting everything, when attempting to adjust the brake controller, the message 'no trailer' was displayed (odd- the thing was right back there - it's a little too big to miss!).  When the emergency disconnect was pulled, the trailer brakes did lock up - couldn't budge the trailer.  Replaced the emergency disconnect, and tried to set the trailer brakes using the manual overide levers in the truck - there were no trailer brakes.

The truck has been taken to the dealer's service department.  They checked all the wiring & connected up to a trailer simulator, with the outcome that the truck wiring checked out as all OK.  I mentioned that since the trailer brakes worked fine when the emergency disconnect was pulled, it didn't seem the problem should be in the trailer wiring.  When pressed, the Ford service guy did say that the brake control unit in the truck sends out periodic pulses to check if the brake system is alright.  He stated that if there is any resistance , say from a corroded connection, that could cause the messages we had seen.  That explanation is consistent with what I found after a google search on the problem;  it also seems consistent with everything working well up until just recently. His suggestion was that crimped wire connections that allow even a little corrosion to occur could be the source of the problem and that all wire connections on the trailer ought to be soldered to avoid the issue.

Since the truck & trailer are still under warranty, the next stop is the RV dealer so that they can check out the truck-trailer combination.  Hopefully they'll be able to find something obvious to them (that an ignorant newbie like me missed) that will fix the problem.  My question is:  what if they don't?  It sounds like the options then would be to a)  try and get all the wiring connections soldered on the trailer, or b)  forget using the trailer brake controller that came with the truck & instead replace it with a brake controller that doesn't do the annoying pulse/check & then-decide-the-trailer-isn't-there \behavior (if such a thing exists).  Any thoughts/advice would be welcome.  Thanks in advance.

Al
 
Well, if the brake controller does not think the trailer exists, the trailer brakes would still fail even if it did not do the self check.

I'd be more apt to blame the trailer wiring than the truck, but still cannot be excluded.  The RV dealer should be able to quickly troubleshoot this.

 
Corrosion at the trailer female connector is a perpetual pita with trailers.  The contact blades also have a tendency to get bent away from the pins on the truck plug.  A bit of scraping and bending back with a slot head screw driver can often cure the miseries.  It is worth a try anyway as it is cheap and quick.
 
Welcome to the boards, acorey.

It is not necessary to solder the connections to ensure that they have low resistance.  However, it is necessary to crimp them properly, with a ratchet tool that is designed in a fail-safe way, so that the tool can't be removed unless the connection is crimped tight enough.  You can buy these for around $100 and they are worth their weight in gold for trailer wiring.  A properly crimped connection is vapor tight and less susceptible to corrosion.

As Carl has noted the blade-type RV trailer connectors are not especially reliable.  The pin-type ones work better than the blade-type ones, and I've modified both my trailer and my truck to use the pin type.

There are several connections that the breakaway switch does not test.  These are what the dealer will probably check.

1) Brake wire connection on trailer connector.  Must be clean and screwed down tight
2) 3-way splice from umbilical to breakaway switch
3) Ground connection on trailer connector
4) Ground connection between umbilical and trailer frame

It is my understanding that the Ford integral brake controller will still apply brake voltage even if the test pulse shows a wiring problem. 
 

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