Fuel pump location in tank

Wondering if anyone might know where the fuel pump would be in relation to the tank (centered/offset to particular side).  My dad's 1991 Holiday Rambler 31' class A (460 ford V8 - gas) shut down on him and he's been chasing electrical circuits and so far all relays are good.  His last job is to tap into the fuel pump wires to make sure it's getting power before he goes after the fuel pump.  His only warning on the way home was a slight hiccup on the road, then as he parked it, he went to move it over a few more feet and it died as he pulled forward.  Luckily it coasted back into the parking space with the help of a few friends.

We're in a bit of a pickle with relation to the fuel tank since the back end of the vehicle is overhanging a hill, so we can't easily get to the tank to drop it, plus there's almost 1/2 tank left in it.  His plan was to try to cut an access panel in the floor of the rear storage compartment and get to the pump that way.  We just want to make sure we cut in the right place the first time.  I believe it's an 80 gallon tank.

We both seem to think the pump should be centered in the tank since it's rectangular/box with no slope to it.  This would make sense to have the pump near center for fuel movement when going up/down hills or off camber situations.

Have a 96/97 33ft Winnie Brave on a Ford chassis with a 70 (?) gal tank. The Ford service manual shows the hole for the pump is centered, just as you surmized.

Have had two filters clog while on trips. First was on entry to parking on I 70 westbound Welcome Center in Burlington, CO--the engine just flamed out! Called Ford dealer--said we don't do "those things", take it to "Joe's Garage". Well, it was late in afternoon (week-day), the Mech at Joe's said we'll get to it 1st thing in the morning. Told him the fuel pump probably quit, as they were prone to do in early 90 models. His reaction was--let's not worry about that till we check it out. Turned out to be only a clogged filter--after a test run, made them check it out again (still was thinkung "pump"). "Joe's" good, professional people, after all!!

About 8000 miles later, I 76 Sunday afternoon half way between no-where and no-where else, had another flame-out. This time there wasn't any place to go- so got dropped off at a truck stop parking lot. At first light, next morning, changed the filter--the stuff in it looked like weak coffee.

OK--to the point: Was going to drop the tank myself to take it somewhere for cleaning. Waited for Spring weather and got close up and personal with the tank. Went they built the chassis, every body must have done their work their work standing up-- all clamps and fittings were not all that convenient working from underneath. So, bit the bullet and took it to local Ford dealer--that does work on "those things". Told them to drop the the tank, clean it out and replace the pump while they were at it. Labor: $450, Pump assy,$596.40, Wiring assy, $67.08 and with msc (including 10 gal of new clean gas), final bill: $1283.23.

If I were you at this point, before drilling holes, I would yank the filter, see what drains out, hook up a hose on the out line from the tank (open end of hose in suitable container), turn ign key to start, and see if anything gets pumped.

Haven't been anywhere since. (Oh, lasttime, I offered the tow person the title if he tow the thing back to Sidney, NB then drive us-wife, 2 dogs,2 cats--to Fort Collins. He declined, however). Tweedy

PS--If pump is same as 96, it's got a mind of it's own. If is doesn't feel pressure build-up it should immediately shut down, but you should get at least a spurt.

Thanks for the reply.  He has changed the filter already.  I figured the pump was centered.  Saw some photos of the new F 53 motorhome chassis on the web and pump/sending unit was centered on that tank also.  I'll relay the info to my dad.

I have a '94 Damon Challenger with the Ford F-53 stripped chassis. On my fuel tank the plate with the fuel pump and sending unit is near the front of the tank.

I was going to cut a hole under my bed to access it, but looking up from underneath the tank, there is a steel cross member just about 2 inches above the access plate. If you decide to cut through the floor you would have to cut his cross member also to have access to the plate.

I had to put the rig in a shop to have them drop the tank. $ 800.00 plus. I was on the road and had no choice.

Jerry

I've been trying to talk him into letting me pull it forward with my truck so we could drop the tank but he's being stubborn about it.  I told him that there could be some crossmember supports under there.  I kinda think that there would be something to but the top of the tank against as the holding straps were tightened.  He'll be cutting in the "basement", so I don't know what type of support is over that area.  It does not have a pass through to the other side since the holding tanks are on the driver's side.  I told him to at least take a coat hanger and see if he could snag the fuel line or electrical lines to get an idea where it is.

I was also thinking that he may not have enough room to pull the pump out depending on how long the sending float and pick up tube are.  He said there's only 12"-14" of clearance between the cargo floor and bedroom floor above the frame.

If we are still talking 75 gal tank installed aft of axle, it is nested up against two cross pieces running between chassis frame rails. Without measuring, but estimating from "book" drawings, can't be more than 4" between tank and floor above. The guts of the pump go almost all the way to bottom. (Which reminds me--forgot to request old part when I had it changed--so I can't measure it for you--or me, rats!). There are several smaller tanks where the pump is accessed from top front, but if you are satisfied that the pump hole is centered, there won't be room to work it and it will take a fairly large hole in the floor to get hands down to get retainer ring off--est 4" to 6" dia, minimum. The "book" does not show x-member interference--but who knows what coach builder may have done. Sorry it wasn't just a filter clog. I was going for the "hole" program too, but the bed is on top of the fresh water tank which is on the floor above the gas tank--so, in my case the gas tank had to be dropped. Tweedy

I think he's going for a 12" hole for access, probably square.  He's got this little circular saw for cutting tile that is pretty small, maybe a 7" blade.  I have a feeling the retainer ring is going to be a bear to get off, since it's been on there for nearly 20 years.

I still trying to get him to start syphoning gas out for in his van so we can try dropping the tank.  I have a feeling it's not going to be an easy job the way he wants to do it.

the top of the fuel pump assembly has bolts and the plate is 10" in dia.  you can get a pump only at NAPA for just over $200.00 some places could be less. mine was 225.00.  the hole in the floor is a good idea as long as you make it big enough. the 12" should do it ok.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=TFP2P74107_0064645818&An=599001+101995+50028+2028058#

this is the one I have for my 95 ford.

For Shawn-- Still mad at self for not remembering to get old pump--would have been great for comparison purposes with NAPA part offered by"supermod38". With his info, as opposed to what the 96 shop manual illustrates, I may have erred , and not considered what  actually constitutes "fuel pump assembly" i.e: the plumbing may be only thing unique and therefore, reusable. But it's the plumbing that makes getting to the pump itself difficult.

However, this exercise has led to a discovery that with very careful measruing, the pump hole, in my case, may be 6 to 10 inches forward of bed/water tank!! That would be under an unobstructed section of bedroom floor, afterall.

For supermod30: thanks for the info, NAPA comes to the rescue again!! But, if I get stranded again because of fuel starvation, Winnie may go directly to salvage!! 

Tweedy