What is ahead of us this winter???

We are living full time in our Bounder motorhome. It is the 39' 39R diesel. Right now we are in Cullman, AL parked at our church with full hook ups. The winters can get pretty cold here for several days in a row. We can't winterize since this is our only home. Last year (when we lived in a regular house here) there were several days in a row under 20 degrees. I am not sure if there is enough heat that will come from our heaters to keep the pipes from freezing. I know it will be a chore to keep the water line and hose from freezing up.

We can't just "go to FL" because of our mission work. Anyone have suggestions to help us prepare??

Thanks

If you are living in the MH then you shouldn't have any trouble with the water in the MH freezing up. You can always connect the hose, fill your onboard water tank and use that. Disconnect the hose, drain the water out and store it in a warm bay until you need it the next time.

For heat you can use electric space heaters to supplement your onboard heater. In milder weather the electric heaters will probably be enough.

I'm sure others will also have suggestions that will get you through the winter.

Regards,

You may have trouble with exposed water pipes/valves freezing, e.g. the waste drains and city water inlet.  If they are in an enclosed compartment, you can line the bottom of the compartment with some old carpet (for insulation) and put a light bulb in there on an extension cord. A 75-100 watt bulb should keep it warm enough to avoid a freeze up at 20 degrees.

I came across these somewhere, somewhen.  I have no experience with them.  Catalytic heaters
http://ventedcatheater.com/index.html  but they sure seemed like a good alternative as they vent the exhaust gases to the outside.

We have wintered in a 2001 Fleetwood Southwind with temps as low as -4* outside overnight.  I'm not familiar with the 39R but I think most all Bounders have heated basement with the tanks and valves all in heated area.  Our front furnace heats the fresh water tank area, rear heats the rear utility area with waste tanks and dump valves. 

Get 3 remote reading thermometers, 1 for fresh water bay, 1 for waste bay area and one for outside temps ... that way you can monitor what is going on.

Our manual says for outside temps of 10-32 to keep furnaces set to 65 ... using either furnaces alone or a combination of carefully placed drop lights as Gary suggested, you should do fine with teens, 20's and higher.  Stay ahead of falling temps ... we had a temporary freeze up (no damage) when a cold front came through and dropped the temp about 30* in less than an hour and I didn't get the heat started in time.

As suggested we only use the hoses to fill water and dump, returning hoses to a warm storage area and operate from the onboard tanks. 

And you might want to leave your hot water heater on whenever cold temps are expected ... I think ours would be ok (basically under bathroom sink) but figured a little propane was better than a freeze up there.

Howard

    We stopped into see friends in Taos NM last December for what was supposed to be an overnight.  Unexpected snow storm kept us there 5 days, with overnight temps down to -5 F.  The coach was plenty warm with the furnace going, and we put trouble (drop) lights in the compartments where the tanks are located.  We had no problems.  However, on the way home we did hit 2 nights where the temps dropped unexpectedly, and the hose froze from the tap to the coach, at the time I saw other more permanent RVs were using heater tape on their water and grey/black hoses, it seemed to work ok, but I know you need to follow the instructions in order to make sure it doesn't create a problem.

Ed

I lived from after Christmas throught the winter o f80-81, in Omaha, while serving as the Team Ministry Coordinator and Urban Ministry Deputy for the Episcopal Diocese of NE in my Coachmen Leprechaun.

If you don't already have this, get the largest temporary propane tank your propane dealer will rent you and set it near your mh outlet with a quick connect device. You may want to take a trip and you need propane all year so get it now while he's not selling very much. The price to fill it is at it's lowest this month and maybe next.

Get insuilation material, esp if you can sind something that has a solid backing on one side, and cut it to fit all the windows in the front and set up velcro to attach and detach as needed. I'd do it for all your windows and whatever side catches the winds, I'd keep them insulated during cold spells. There's probably a closet in the church where they can be stoored during the spring and summer. Insulated quilts can be mad or adapted to do the same thing. I used old fashioned plastich screaning with duct tape. Make insulation for aour vents. You will need to keep one cracked to let moisture out even in the coldest weather but teemporarily seal off those overheads that aren't being used.

If you arent parked by a sewer cut out and the church has an accessible one, I'd park very near it and set up a sewage draning system. That way you can leave a hose connected and run a slow trickle of water whtoufh your city water connection and down you kitchen sink and keep your gray water tanke open for a continuous slow, bur 50-60 deg water temp flowing through the system in and out. That's what I did in the park where I was stay.

If you don't have a way to dump via a sewage cutpout, keep the hoses dry in a bay below or, better yet, in the furnace room at the church bldg, use remote temp sensors and a 100 watt bulb, NOT Florescent, if the bays aren't well heated.

If I think of anything else, I'll write further.

Together in His service, and thankful I'm doing that now in the Anglican Church in North America.



 

Thank you to to everyone for the great suggestions. Keep them coming! Hopefully, we will do well if we prepare now, kind of like eternity

Bob Maxwell said:

That way you can leave a hose connected and run a slow trickle of water whtoufh your city water connection and down you kitchen sink and keep your gray water tanke open for a continuous slow, bur 50-60 deg water temp flowing through the system in and out. 

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But if the sewer line ever freezes you're going to have much ice in your trailer. 

I recall hearing of a power failure, pipes freezing and a trusted idiot not checking the trailer while the owner was on holidays.  Came back and there was several feet of ice in the trailer.  They had to wait until summer to see if anything could be salvaged.  Mind you that was a bit different as it was a number of days or not a week or more of water and pipes burst.

If it gets really cold or really cold weather is forecast... you can drain the plumbing completely and use the facilities at the nearby church for a few days until the weather improves.  Not the most convenient but could save the MH plumbing if it is really cold.  The suggestion to get a large propane tank, now, is excellent.  If you have enough propane you can keep everything warm enough, except for the hose connection to the water... you'll need insulation and heat tape for that.  Ask the folks that are living there on a permanent basis, they know better than anyone what's needed... they have been there, done that.

taoshum said:

.....except for the hose connection to the water... you'll need insulation and heat tape for that.  .....

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He doesn't need to be hooked up to the shore utilities. That's way he has a SELF CONTAINED RV.

Roll the hoses up and put them in a warm bay.

Alaskansnowbirds said:

He doesn't need to be hooked up to the shore utilities. That's way he has a SELF CONTAINED RV.

Roll the hoses up and put them in a warm bay.

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To be completely "self contained", I guess it depends on how long the cold weather lasts... and how often your tanks need to be serviced, how long your generator will run without more fuel, how many times you want to watch the same DVD without access to cable/broadcast, how much you need internet access... not to mention solid waste disposal and something to eat.

Why the caps?  Oh well.

taoshum said:

To be completely "self contained", I guess it depends on how long the cold weather lasts...

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How long the weather stays cold has nothing to do with if the RV is self contained or not.

how often your tanks need to be serviced

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When your tanks need serviced you get the hoses out and service the tanks. Then you drain the hoses and put them back in warm storage.

how long your generator will run without more fuel

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PastorTravis is hooked up to shore power so the generator is immaterial in this case.

how many times you want to watch the same DVD without access to cable/broadcast, how much you need internet access... not to mention solid waste disposal and something to eat.

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I don't see where anything in this last statement has anything to do with PastorTravis's original question about dealing with cold weather.

Alaskansnowbirds said:

How long the weather stays cold has nothing to do with if the RV is self contained or not.

When your tanks need serviced you get the hoses out and service the tanks. Then you drain the hoses and put them back in warm storage.

PastorTravis is hooked up to shore power so the generator is immaterial in this case.

I don't see where anything in this last statement has anything to do with PastorTravis's original question about dealing with cold weather.

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Sorry, we're not writing about the same subject.  Adios.

We, too, are learning the winter routine in Taos and have been here a month with some nighttime temps at 20 or slightly below. The saving grace is that the days are in the 50's and 60's which seems to make some difference.

In our 38' Fleetwood Expedition, we run the propane furnaces at 57 degrees at night. We use an electric heated mattress pad. I use a Walmart Weather Channel remote thermometer with one sender in the utility bay. I have not needed a light in the bay yet. On my coach, the bay temps run ten degrees warmer during the night than the outside temp, even without a light.

After we get up, we use an electric radiator (Walmart) to take some of the chill off in the front of the coach where I work and the furnaces rarely come on unless it is below 25 outside.

When the temp is going to be below 28 at night, I disconnect the water at the hydrant and drain the hose and we use the onboard water if needed.

We have had no problems whatsoever. Your mileage may vary.

We are heading to south Alabama for part of the winter, and having lived in the mid south all my life, I know we get a few bad days, but I have no doubt we will be just fine.

Jumping in here because we are going to be staying in Tennessee for a few more weeks(Had planned to be in Florida by now).  This weekend temps will go down to 29-30 at night for a few days.  Have just been using electric heaters inside with no problems.  I have read about putting a light in the utility bay(drop light).  Is this the only outside compartment that I should put a light in?  I know that my furnace is supposed to keep things warm that are supposed to be.  How low does it need to get outside before I have to use the furnace?  Would rather use electric heaters as long as I can. 

We have no problems right at 30 degrees. It was the 16 degrees that was a little frisky.

Not sure how your Winnie is configured, but my grey, black, and water service are all close in the one bay. I don't think you will have too much problem at those temps, especially if the sun warms you. We took the guesswork out with the remote thermometer; it really helps to know what's happening in the bay.

We have been told by many more experienced than us to use electric when you have it so we do.

skyking4ar2 said:

We took the guesswork out with the remote thermometer; it really helps to know what's happening in the bay.

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Duhhh, now that's an excellent idea.  <insert sound of palm hitting forehead>

Thanks, Tony

I use lights in all the "WET" bays on my rig

Fresh water has a string of C-9 Christmas tree lamps under the tank (It is an enclosed compartment and there is room) something over 30 lights, 7-9 watts each.

100 watts in the black/gray bay
100 watts in the gray only bay unless the tank is connected to the sewer and the valve open (As it is now) then I don't worry about it.  I have 3 waste tanks

Side note: Left Batesville, IN last Wed,  Was unable to find a dump station to visit on the path I took to here till Today, that's 8 days and no dump.. The waste tanks were NOT full yet.  First time I've made it past day 5.. I think wife finally go the "Conserve water" idea right

100 watts in the black/gray bay
100 watts in the gray only bay unless the tank is connected to the sewer and the valve open (As it is now) then I don't worry about it.  I have 3 waste tanks

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Are you using 100 watt bulbs in the aluminum clamp on light shell or something else? Also, do you have those lights burning when you are traveling down the road in freezing weather?