Destination Newfoundland - July and August 2010 - Jane and Bill Berry

Bill and I have been avidly reading everyone's journals about Newfoundland and have received great tips from the Forum Community in preparation for our own NF adventure.  Our ferry is booked for July 23 from N. Sydney, Nova Scotia to Port aux Basques, Newfoundland. We will return by the same ferry on September 1. We'll spend 5 1/2 weeks traveling NF in our 35' Tiffin Allegro Bay towing our Jeep Wrangler. We've been fulltiming for 3 years now, and the fun hasn't stopped. I'll do my best to keep this post going regularly. Of course, we'll be at the mercy of wifi as we go.

It is July 12, 2010 and our adventure has begun. We have just crossed into New Brunswick, Canada via Houlton, ME on a hot, sunny day with no trouble at all at the border. Our first stop is at Cosy Cabins Motel and Campground in Woodstock, NB...easy enough to get to and a nice level site with FHU's facing the St. John River, but the Passport America rate wasn't honored as advertised due to "heavy booking" even though it's a weekday and 1/2 full, so we'll stay just one night and head to Nova Scotia tomorrow. Too bad, because the river view is terrific and wifi and satellite are working.

    Welcome to the Atlantic Canada, we looked at that park when we were making our way home in June, but decided to stop at a non PA park 30 miles or so north of there, and it was a delight with full hook ups, right on the river @ $25.  We've got reservations about 100 miles south east of there at Mohawk RV Park at PA rates.  Unfortunately we won't be mobile until you're on your way to NF, maybe on your way back.
    Enjoy the Rock, be prepared to go through a food and booze detox when you leave, and catch sleep when ever you can as they party hardy over there.

Ed

Bil and Jane,

Have a wonderful trip.  Thanks for taking us along with you whenever you catch a signal.  Hope you can make Q this winter to share photos. 

Betty

Curious about the cost of the ferry. We took our long bed p/u across and right back. Would bave been better probably by spending more and staying long enough to enjoy it. Looking forward to going back.
Have a great time
juanita and me

Betty...thanks for the good wishes. Will try to post photos at a later date (and once I've figured out how it's done!). Hope to see you on the road.

Juanita...the ferry is $755.08 CAD (ouch) N. Sydney to Port aux Basques round trip. With motorhome and toad, we measure 54ft. Right now, CAD and USD are about even. Yes, the high cost was a factor in extending the trip.

    Are you hitting Halifax on the way to Cape Breton, if so when.  We're here for another week.

Ed

Ed,
We'll be in Bridgewater over the upcoming weekend visiting Bill's sister. We are now at Five Islands Ocean Resort and Rv Park in Five Islands, Nova Scotia for 3 nights and will head straight for Bridgewater on Friday. From there...??...we once visited Whycocomagh Provincial Park and have always wanted to return, so that's a possibility. Just need to make the July 23 ferry from N. Sydney and will stay at Arm of Gold CG the night before.

    Hpykmpr - Bonnie and Alan (from Florida) summer in Blockhouse in Bonnie's grandmother's old house.  They said they are near the firehall.  Unfortunately we are away to a wedding in Moncton for the week end, so we're not around until Sunday night.

Ed

July 13 ? July 21, 2010
Early last evening, while looking out over the St. John River in Woodstock, NB, we spotted a bird hovering in place over the water in front of our rig. We had never seen what our bird book told us was a Belted Kingfisher in action like this. It was quite a display of athleticism, hovering for what seemed like an unnatural period of time, then diving for fish.

The Trans-Canada Highway brought us from New Brunswick into Nova Scotia, where we took exit 5 off 104 and followed a bumpy Route 2 through Springhill and Parrsboro. After Parrsboro, the road improved. Our destination was Five Islands on the Bay of Fundy?s Minas Basin, where we watched the famous Fundy tide go way out and saw people slogging through the mud to dig for clams. No license is required to dig a limit of 100 clams per person per day, but we didn't have time to try it ourselves. It rained for an entire day, and the one nice sunny day we had on the Bay of Fundy was spent in Truro, where we had a great view of the impressive tidal bore on the Salmon River. We took a nice long walk along the Lepper Brook gorge in the 1,000 acre Victoria Park in Truro.

Arrived at Peter and Julia?s (Bill?s sister) house in Pleasantville, Nova Scotia. Had to cut down lots of pine branches to get in their driveway but had a nice spot overlooking a picturesque cove on the LaHave River. Saw 5 Kingfishers at once! It was very hot out, so we went to Rissers Beach on the Atlantic for two afternoons. Lobster rolls for lunch. Farmers market. Glad to have wifi! No cell or satellite service here.

Left Pleasantville, NS and drove about 5 hours to Whycocomagh Provincial Park on Cape Breton Island. We were there in 2007 and liked it so much that we went back. The trees had grown up a lot in 3 years, so the views we had of the Bras D?or Lakes was somewhat diminished?still a nice place with the cleanest bathrooms anywhere. We took the Jeep to N. Sydney one day to check out the ferry we?ll take on Friday to Newfoundland. We took the scenic drive back to the campground, taking the 5 minute Little Narrows ferry at Iona. Still very hot out but nice to see the sun shining. It?s Wednesday, July 21, 2010, only 2 days from boarding the morning ferry to Newfoundland. Until then, we have settled into the Arm of Gold Campground, a very nice place, just 2 miles from the ferry. Our tanks are full and the refrigerator is stocked. We?re about ready to go and very excited!

July 23, 2010

It is a beautiful day to travel to Newfoundland! Skies are clear. We arrived at the ferry dock in N. Sydney well before the required 1? hours prior to sailing time, only to be asked at the toll both if we had been notified of the delay. A lesson learned is to call ahead, of course! After a 3 hour delay (reason unclear), we were loaded onto the MV Caribou with an expected arrival time in Newfoundland of 9:00 pm?about a 5 1/2 hour crossing. NF time is 1 1/2 hours ahead of Eastern time. The lower level (2nd deck) of the ship is filled with mostly 18+ wheelers. 3rd deck just above is where we are parked. There are only a couple of Class A motorhomes (that?s us) on this ship now. Mostly cars, motorcycles, and trailer campers on the 3rd deck. It?s a full boat. So, the Caribou capacity is 370 autos, and about 75 tractor trailers. Total ship capacity of 1000 passengers. 4 diesel engines at 7,000 HP each. Max speed 22 knots. 179 meters (587 feet) long. 25 meters (82 feet) breadth. 16,203 tons displacement. 49 cabins. 112 dormitory sleepers. 7 decks. We found ourselves a large table with padded built-in bench seats long enough to stretch out and next to a window with an electrical outlet to charge the computers. We were happy there and could safely leave our things we brought to eat, read, etc. at our seats while we explored. There was no opportunity to return to the vehicles once under way. The 1st land mass (NF!) spotted brought us to the upper outside decks to watch as we approached Channel-Port aux Basques. What a magnificently beautiful, enchanting sight...small islands, dramatic cliffs, a village built right down to the water?s edge, church spires?all shown off by the rapidly setting sun. We were unloaded very quickly and hit the smooth road for Grand Codroy RV Park in Doyles about 20 miles away. It was dark as we backed into our 30amp FHU site. This is a very nice park with lots and lots of space between sites. Long day!

July 25, 2010 ? July 28, 2010→Happy Birthday, Bill (Still stranded!)

BREAKDOWN ON THE TCH! Newfoundland Day 3, 4, 5, 6
It was a sunny Sunday morning as we hooked up the Jeep and left Grand Codroy RV Park in Doyle?s after a few days exploring the lovely Codroy valley, a highlight being the Codroy Caf? Plus for a lunch of pan-fried cod (perfectly delicious!) and a small sample of cod tongue, a NL delicacy (an acquired taste?). Our plan was to stop in Deer Lake to fuel up before going to Gros Morne National Park. About 75 miles east of Doyle?s, just before the TCH exit for Route 461, we heard a terrible 5 second rumble/clank/clunk in the engine and immediately pulled over fearing the worst. Just as we managed to straighten out onto the narrow but sufficient shoulder, the ?Stop Engine? light came on at about the same moment the engine stopped?dead. Within 1 minute, 2 bicyclers stopped to ask if we needed help. Oh, thank goodness for that renowned Newfoundlander friendliness! As it turned out, they were sisters living nearby and out for an afternoon ride. Our cell phone wasn?t working, and they loaned us theirs to make the necessary calls. Once we got a real person at Progressive and spelled ?Newfoundland? to him (he thought we were in South Dakota, our home state), he got right on it, and within 40 minutes as promised a tow truck arrived and towed our rig to a truck place that works on Cummins in Corner Brook, about 45 miles to the east. The bicycling sisters were wonderful, the tow truck driver knew exactly what to do, and here we sit on a rainy Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday (sun's out!)?still trying to diagnose the problem, which now points to an injector?maybe tomorrow we?ll be back on the road.

So sorry to hear of your troubles.  Life on the road is certainly an adventure isn't it?

Betty

    Sorry to hear about your troubles, but make use of your time in Corner Brook.  There are a couple of nice side trips that you likely would never have taken, but use the toad and go see them.  I can't remember names, but there is a georgeous fiord out toward the ocean with lots of lovely sights, plus you can do Gross Morn as a day trip, and get into the inland sea.
    We're in Fredericton to let Donna do some family research at the NB Archives, and I can't believe that neither the Archives nor the UNB Library have wifi, oh well the withdrawal pains are just about over as we head to the cottage in Shediac tomorrow, and we have wifi there.

Ed

July 31, 2010 ? August 3, 2010  Back on the Road ? A Visit to Gros Morne National Park, Rocky Harbour, NL

We spent 6 nights in our rig in the back lot of Harvey & Sons in Corner Brook, Newfoundland. Thankfully, we are still under Cummins warranty, because all 6 fuel injectors and the fuel pump were replaced. Our mechanic, Travis, is first rate, and we were completely satisfied with our service and hospitality at Harvey and Sons. Not wanting to stray too far from Corner Brook without cell phone service (we stopped our Verizon service for the duration of our Canada trip), we took a Jeep drive out Route 450 for great views along the cliffs of the Humber Arm, and we scouted out our route up to Gros Morne National Park with a visit to picturesque Woody Point. We got to know Corner Brook quite well and took advantage of the free wifi at the library. We now have a temporary library card good for all NL libraries and can log onto the internet wherever we find a library.

I?m a believer that all things happen for a good reason. While we were in Corner Brook, it rained and rained, but the delay in our schedule worked out perfectly for our visit to Gros Morne National Park. We had 3 days of  sunshine and took full advantage of it. We did not have a reservation at Gros Morne RV Park and Campground in Rocky Harbour and were fortunate to have gotten a great site (#10) with pretty good 30 amp service, good water, sewer, and reliable wifi at our site. We found out it was a provincial holiday, and the park was full. Our first afternoon, we hiked the 10k Baker Brook Falls trail. The falls were lovely, the trail a bit muddy, and we saw our first bull moose just a stone?s throw away. Day 2 at Gros Morne, another perfect day, we hiked the 16k Gros Morne Mountain loop. Wow?spectacular views but a grueling, ambitious hike straight up 2600 feet of scree to the peak, a hike that I loved and Bill vowed never, ever to do again. It took us 8 ? hours, including lunch stop and lots of photos. We saw 3 moose, one of which was a bull moose munching away on foliage not 20 feet from our path. It was a bit unnerving passing that huge animal so close by, but his meal was all important, and he paid us little attention. On our third and final day at Gros Morne, after a day of Jeep touring many historic sites, we took the 3k walk to board the 4 p.m. Western Brook Pond boat tour. We couldn?t have asked for a better evening to view the massive cliffs and impressive waterfalls. That same night, Monday, we really enjoyed the sold-out Anchors Aweigh show in the pub of the Ocean View Motel. Tomorrow we head north on the Viking Trail toward St. Anthony.

Jane B said:

July 31, 2010 ? August 3, 2010  Back on the Road ? A Visit to Gros Morne National Park, Rocky Harbour, NL

We got to know Corner Brook quite well and took advantage of the free wifi at the library. We now have a temporary library card good for all NL libraries and can log onto the internet wherever we find a library.

We couldn?t have asked for a better evening to view the massive cliffs and impressive waterfalls. That same night, Monday, we really enjoyed the sold-out Anchors Aweigh show in the pub of the Ocean View Motel.

Click to expand...

Jane,
So glad you got a repair.  We were fortunate to have not had MUCH rain on the trip in NL.  I wished we had found a  way to get a library card for those few times we could not get a satellite signal.  I missed the Anchors Aweigh show as they were sold out. I am so happy you got to see it.  Keep that info coming as I relive  our adventure through your posts. 

I'm not sure I could have done an 8 1/2 hour hike.  So I'm with Bill on that one!

Betty

Jane:

The boat tour and Anchors Aweigh remind me of how much we enjoyed Gros Morne (and all of NFLD).

Yes, trip logs are time consuming, but many of us follow along even though you may not hear directly.  We LOVED Gros Morne and are glad you enjoyed it too.  Wait 'til you get to L'Anse Meadows and realize you're walking where Vikings walked!  Have a great time.  Take bug repellant for the biting black flies if you go over to Labrador where there's a wonderful heritage site and museum on the Basque whalers who were there quite early.

ArdraF

I envy your trip.  My wife and I were in Newfoundland for an anthropological expedition a couple of years ago (great work, you get paid to talk to people and see sights!).  We fell in love with the people and the rugged land.  Make sure you get to Cape Spear and watch a sunrise.  If you are standing with your feet in the surf, you will see the sun rise before anyone else in North America on that day!

Also, watch out for moose!  We almost popped a couple with the rental van while we were exploring the region around St. Johns.

The PEOPLE are incredible and perhaps the most friendly of any people we've studied over the years -- unless or until you mention "church."  Then, it is game on.  Though polite, most will just turn and walk away.  That is the battle ground in the region, and is akin to the issues that have held Ireland captive for decades.

I'd love to go back with an RV.  What an adventure!

August 4, 2010 ? August 5, 2010 Icebergs

As we drove north on the Viking Trail, we decided to stop in Port au Choix. We pulled into the Lion?s Club Oceanside RV Park just before town, where we had a site with a fantastic oceanfront view. It was early in the day, beautiful weather, and on a whim we decided to try out cod jigging with a local fisherman, Vince Atkins. Oceanside RV Park recommended him to us, so off we went in the afternoon for about 4 hours of pure fun. We caught the daily cod limit, 5 each, and caught about 8 mackerel?so delicious! Vince cleaned and filleted all the fish for us. We took all we could fit into our rig freezer and gave him the rest.

After a quick look at the Port au Choix Heritage Center, lighthouse point, and a local art studio the next morning, we drove a very bumpy (especially those bridges!) Route 430 to Triple Falls RV Park (nearly missed the entrance) just outside of St. Anthony. It was another beautiful day as we headed north seeing huge, neatly stacked woodpiles and lots of vegetable gardens along the roadside. The afternoon was spent at L?Anse aux Meadows, site of the remains and partial reconstruction of a Norse settlement from 1,000 years ago, and of other human inhabitants from 5,000-6,000 years ago. That evening, we explored St. Anthony and were fascinated by the fishing boat activity at the fish plant.

Another sunny day, and we took the Jeep to Goose Cove for a walk on the cliff trails. Our biggest surprise later that day was spotting icebergs?2 actually, but 1 was almost fully enshrouded by fog, the other was perfectly clear and big as we drove toward Boat Harbour at the end of Route 435. The gannets were madly diving for fish as we watched the iceberg. There we could also make out the Labrador coast. What an unexpected treat! The day ended with a Jeep drive to Cape Onion for more gorgeous views.

August 6, 2010 ? August 9, 2010 Another BREAKDOWN (see July 25 entry)
This is painful to write about (thus relive the experience), but it?s all part of our adventure. On our way back down the Northern Peninsula, our ?Check Engine? light came on briefly, so we pulled over, turned off the engine, waited 5 minutes and turned the engine back on. Hurray, no warning light! So, with silent trepidation, we drove on and spent 3 wonderful, sunny days at the Sea Breeze B&B and RV Park in Cow Head just to the north of Gros Morne National Park. We gave the 9-site park high marks for a fantastic water view, a FHU with very good 30 amp service and great free wifi. We couldn?t get tickets to the sold-out dinner theater in Cow Head, but we had perfect weather to walk the Lighthouse Trail at the ?Head? of Cow Head, and we had dinner at our favorite chip van in nearby Sally?s Cove? gourmet fish burger and scallop boat out of Styrofoam containers in the front seat of the Jeep.

Now comes the bad part?our next planned stop was Twillingate. However, that changed when our ?Check Engine? light came on again and stayed on. We decided to spend the night in the Walmart parking lot in Grand Falls-Windsor, a relatively large town, with the hope of finding a truck repair facility to help us in the morning. It was a Sunday night, so we scouted out potential places in our Jeep and found one just around the corner. Turns out they had the computer diagnostic program for a Cummins engine, and their evaluation was a likely sensor issue with the turbo charger. Bad news was they are not authorized by Cummins to work on our still under warranty engine. That?s where our plans changed from Twillingate to St. John?s, where there?s a Cummins facility. With the mechanic?s assurance that we would not breakdown, off we went for the eternal 275 mile trip to St. John?s. Five minutes later, as we drove onto the ramp to the TCH (Trans-Canada Highway), the engine wouldn?t respond to acceleration, so we quickly drifted off to the shoulder as the engine died altogether. Now what? The thought of arranging another tow (and to where?) was daunting. So without a word Bill turned the key, and the rig started up. It was an unspoken understanding that we were going to go for it. The ?Check Engine? light was gone, and once again, we were on our way. The engine died 4 more times in the 275 mile journey, but it always started right back up, and we limped into the Cummins lot in St. Johns, where we now wait for our fix.