Workhorse Chassis Suspension Questions

Richard 34A · Jul 18, 2010

I recently had to replace all the tires on my 2005 Winnebago MH on a Workhorse W20 chassis. Looking around, I came across something I've never paid attention to before. When I bought my MH, Workhorse seemed to have the bragging rights to what they claimed at better ride and better handling than the Ford chassis (at that time). The ride and handling improvements the Workhorse touted was Bilstein shocks, a 'Like-Air' Spring, a 2.5 stabilizer bar and a rear track bar. I can see the Bilsteins and the Like-Air Spring; is the front stabilizer just below the shock? And is the rear track bar the square-tube? Always thought that there was a brace that connected to the rear differential but that doesn't seem to be the case.

Looking around the Camping World website, I came across a couple of Roadmaster, Inc. products that I guess I thought were variations of what Workhorse installed OEM, just more heavy-duty. Any Workhorse owners that can point out what I'm not seeing? Maybe the Roadmaster products are just what I need to improve at least the handling; seems like I'm always making corrections with the steering wheel and sure get thrashed around when passed, or when I pass by a semi or another large RV.

Thank you,

Gary RV_Wizard · Jul 18, 2010

From what little I can see, that long thing between the wheels below the shock is part of the steering mechanism. The front stabilizer is forward and up higher, or at least it was on my 2002.

Not sure about the rear track bar. It doesn't have to connect to the differential, but it does need to connect between the chassis on one side and something on the spring or axle on the other. Basically it connects the unsprung portion (axle) to the sprung portion (chassis). From what I see in the 2nd picture, it meets at east half the requirement. Can't see the other end.

TravelinTiffin · Jul 19, 2010

Richard, I had similar steering issues with my "04 W22 when new. Perhaps you need to look into the steering component. My DW could not stand to drive the RV as it "required too much work". A little research gave me the solution.

A steering damper from Safe-T-Plus did the trick for me by providing lateral force to keep me aimed straight-ahead. "Steer safe" is another product of similar function. You will find steering doesn't need constant correction, pulling-to-side reduced and you arrive without feeling you've been doing an exercise workout all day long.

Added benefit comes when big rigs pass or rut-tracking constantly pulls you to one side. Steering assist in the event of a front tire blowout is another great plus. One model has an adjust-on-the fly re centering capability.

Richard 34A · Jul 19, 2010

TravelinTiffin said:
A steering damper from Safe-T-Plus did the trick for me by providing lateral force to keep me aimed straight-ahead. "Steer safe" is another product of similar function. You will find steering doesn't need constant correction, pulling-to-side reduced and you arrive without feeling you've been doing an exercise workout all day long.

Thanks TravelinTiffin for the suggestion. Currently, I'm thinking of maybe the Roadmaster, Inc. Davis TruTrac bar for the front and the RSS anti-sway bar for the rear. Driving at speeds of less than 40 mph, all is good. But get up to highway or freeway speeds and I feel that I'm constantly working and correcting the steering wheel. Throw in some crosswinds and passing big-rigs and 450 miles later I'm beat. I know some of the problem is just the chassis and is one reason people upgrade to diesel pushers. (When they pass me, why does it look they are just 'gliding' by'. At least, that's what I tell my wife, hoping that someday she'll say 'yeah, I want one'.)

Emailed Roadmaster, Inc today and was pleasantly surprised to get a reply with installation instructions and a few dealers that aren't too far away, so I'll have to research this a little more... I'm hoping that maybe someone with a Workhorse or Ford chassis that has done these specific upgrades will post; I'd like to know if the improvement was worth the costs.

The .pdf installation instructions are not at their website, but anyone who might be interested, I'll be glad to email them to you. Just put 'Roadmaster Installation' in your subject line to me so I know that it isn't junk mail or SPAM...

Gary RV_Wizard · Jul 19, 2010

I installed the Davis TruTrak on my 2002 Workhorse W22. Drove like a dream thereafter.

RLSharp · Jul 19, 2010

Richard 34A said:
Currently, I'm thinking of maybe the Roadmaster, Inc. Davis TruTrac bar for the front and the RSS anti-sway bar for the rear.

Richard,

I would recommend installing a Davis TruTrac Bar first. After a few miles you may decide that is all you need. It sure made a huge difference on my F-53 Ford. I never considered adding anything to the rear after that. I did install new polyurethane bushings in the rear stabilizing bar many thousands of miles later. I did this not because of any handling problems, but because I was under there and found the old rubber bushing grossly worn out. I did not notice any difference in the handling but did eliminate a clunking noise that I heard occasionally.

Richard

Richard 34A · Jul 19, 2010

Thanks Gary and Richard for your input; for those that missed it, here's a link to a great article on the subject from MotorHome Magazine, March 2010 issue.

http://www.motorhomemagazine.com/output.cfm?ID=2479303

Gary RV_Wizard · Jul 20, 2010

There's an even better article in our library. I know, cause I wrote it! 8) :

;D It's the Motorhome Handling Primer.

http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/MH_Steering_Handling_%20Primer.pdf

Steering stabilizers seek to correct the symptoms by attempting to force the steering wheel toward the center. A track bar (panhard rod) seeks to eliminate the problem at the source, which is usually the leaf spring suspension moving sideways under back pressure from the road against the tires.

FrontrangeRVer · Jul 20, 2010

Off topic, but MAN! Richard! You have some rust going on there!

Richard 34A · Jul 20, 2010

FrontrangeRVer said:
Off topic, but MAN! Richard! You have some rust going on there!

I've always thought that too, especially since I live in California and the MH has never been in snow, and not even a lot of rain. To make a long story short, months after I bought this MH from a Winnebago / Fleetwood dealer, imagine my surprise when my wife found this picture of the dealer, with my MH in their inventory at the time this took place. When I had a problem with the rear differential and Workhorse refused to make repairs under warranty, the dealer finally covered the cost of the repair but I've never been too pleased that I wasn't given 'full disclosure' when I bought it. Because, of course, I would not have purchased this motorhome.

Note how most of the inventory (next door on the left, which the dealer also owned) had no problem in getting most of their inventory out of there. The RV dealer even told me that most of the MH's had been moved too; that is, until I showed them four of these photographs of all the car dealers on Auto Row. No, I've never delt with a dishonest dealer. Ah, right... even after turning the photos over to Winnebago and Workhorse Custom Chassis, they wouldn't take any action against the dealer.

Gary RV_Wizard · Jul 20, 2010

RV manufacturers never take action against dealers - they are afraid they will drop their product line. It's not at all like car dealers, where the factory holds all the cards. An RV dealer will simply drop the brand and pick up another one. Many, many alternatives for the dealer, so no leverage for the factory.

Richard 34A · Jul 20, 2010

RV Roamer said:
RV manufacturers never take action against dealers - they are afraid they will drop their product line.

I agree; too bad for me that the dealer closed it's doors last January anyway!

Meant to ask this earlier in the thread, do I have leaking shocks or is this normal road debris dirt?

Gary RV_Wizard · Jul 21, 2010

Tough call on the possible leak. It looks to me like a film of road dirt, but that raises the question of why on one shock but not the other? Is there perhaps a oily film that is collecting more dirt? But a leaky shock rarely has a just a film - it usually leaks out big time. And after that, it is dry cause the fluid is gone.

FrontrangeRVer · Jul 21, 2010

Richard....we replaced the Bilsteens for Koni FSD's and the ride improved tremendously as the harshness went away. ;D

I need to take some pics of our undercarriage, as we do drive through salty/magnesium chloride during the Winter, and we dont have much rust at all...if any. We do spray on "Salt Terminator" before and after each Winter trip to disolve the salt and leave a protective sheen, as water alone will not disolve the salt.

Good to hear from you......

Richard 34A · Jul 21, 2010

FrontrangeRVer said:
Richard....we replaced the Bilsteens for Koni FSD's and the ride improved tremendously as the harshness went away. ;D

I need to take some pics of our undercarriage, as we do drive through salty/magnesium chloride during the Winter, and we dont have much rust at all...if any. We do spray on "Salt Terminator" before and after each Winter trip to disolve the salt and leave a protective sheen, as water alone will not disolve the salt.

Good to hear from you......

Not sure what I want to do; trying to see if my son-in-law is up to the challenge of making some of these suspension upgrades. He did say he could handle changing out the shocks; maybe I'll clean them up and then see if fluid is leaking. Don't want to waste money changing them out if not necessary, as I'd rather do the anti-sway bar and such. Since you didn't mention it, I'm assuming you haven't installed any anti-sway bars or steering springs? I'd like more input as to cost vs. the 'worth-it' benefit.

Regarding the rust, I could clean it up a bit and then paint them, at least making it look better. I could get more excited about that if I had a huge lift and could work on it standing up.

Take care, Richard

miket · Jul 23, 2010

To my knowledge, Workhorse never offered a rear track bar as standard on the W 20 or W 22. The square bar across the springs is supposed to be a stabilizer/anti sway.

I have added a Front and rear track bar, Front sway bar to my chassis (W 20) and it has made a big improvement in handling.

burgiebill · Sep 4, 2010

Richard 34A, from what I can see of your picture it looks you have sumo super springs. Are they? if so how do you like them. bill

Workhorse Chassis Suspension Questions

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