What do i need to know about equalizer hitches?

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Photobug

Photobug

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I have a V8 Ford Explorer with the towing package.  The max towing limit is around 7k.  I will be pulling a 1973 19' travel trailer with it.  What do I need to do about load stabilization or equalizer hitches?

I am pretty sure we need something of this nature but kind of blew our budget buying the trailer in the first place so we are trying to find something used that will work.  There is an adjustable Reese EQ hitch for sale for $175 locally.  Would this work or should we look for something different?
 
It is best if you get a hitch with weight distribution and sway control built-in.  The two most common are Reese Dual Cam and Equal-i-zer.

Some Reese Weight Distribution hitches can easily accept the Dual Cam for sway control.

Marc...
 
Basically, any Weight Distributing hitch will work, but the spring (tension) bars come in several weight ratings and you need a set that matches your weight needs. The weight I'm talking about here is trailer tongue weight. What is the gross weight of the trailer you bought? GVWR, if you don't know the actual weight. The tongue weight will be about 12-15% of that and that's what needs to be Distributed or Equalized on the tow vehicle.

You also need a ball mount capable of handling the trailer tongue weight, and a hitch receiver of a class strong enough for it as well. The receiver is the square tube under the bumper. You have one, but make sure it has the appropriate weight rating..

You may get lucky and this $175 hitch has the right size bars. If not, you can replace them, but that's more money,of course. Sometimes used WD hitches don't have the bars, so its extra cost anyway.

Here is some excellent beginner info on WD hitches. It shows all the parts needed and what they do
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx
 
Thanks Guys,

The tow vehicle is an Eddie Bower Ford Explorer with the towing package so it has a class V hitch built into the car.

The trailer is a 1973, Layton which was made here in Utah and well known.  The local trailer supply said around 3500 for an empty weight.  So i figure about 4500 towed weight.  I will look for an equalizer hitch with 500 or 600 lb bars.
 
Setting up a distribution hitch can be complicated.  As Gary noted, there are several spring bars available for each type, and then there's the chain link length.  These devices are not wimpy, and can change the driving characteristics of the vehicle in very negative ways if not set up correctly. 

There are also at least 2 types I know about, one uses friction to drop the spring bars into a "home" position when the trailer and tow vehicle are pointed straight.  Moving this cam out of the notch in the bar is how the device tries to limit sway.  I like this type - less moving parts and easier to inspect, downside of these is they can be noisy when maneuvering the rig, and lubrication to remove the noise cancels out the benefit of the notch!.

Second type has round spring bars and a few different types of friction device (optional add on) one uses a small shock absorber to try to limit sway.  A second type of friction device is offered using a plate which a screw mechanism is tightened, friction added to limit sway.  I had one of those, and, while it worked, I didn't like it as much.

johncmr
 
How important is the bar weight, or how variable?  I see bars in the 500 600 and 750 range.  If my trailer runs between 4000 and 4500 fully loaded.  The 12-15% rule of tongue weight can cover anything from 480 to 675, how important is it to be right on with the weight?

At this point, with 3 days till my trip, looks like I will just have to suck it up and buy a new WD setup.  Which is the best bet?
 
If the bars are rated lower than needed, a few things may occur:
- you may not be able to level the TV and TT combo
- if you level it, you may put more tension than the bars can handle long term, which can lead to problems
- handling can be compromised

If the bars are rated too high, more than the next one up:
- you will be able to level the TV/TT combo, but the bars may be too stiff and give a harsh ride
- handling can be compromised

If you have not gone to a scale to get your loaded weight, you should use the GVWR weight for all calculations.  It's on the DOT plate on the driver side of the trailer.  Than take 15% of that and select the bars rated just above that, not below.

Alternatively, you could get a tongue scale and just get the trailer loaded and ready to go and measure the tongue weight.
 
Photobug said:
How important is the bar weight, or how variable?  I see bars in the 500 600 and 750 range.  If my trailer runs between 4000 and 4500 fully loaded.  The 12-15% rule of tongue weight can cover anything from 480 to 675, how important is it to be right on with the weight?

At this point, with 3 days till my trip, looks like I will just have to suck it up and buy a new WD setup.  Which is the best bet?
Click to expand...

I have 1000-lb bars on a rig with a scaled 750 lb tongue weight.  In short, at least equal to the tongue wt. or a bit heavier.  The bars should permit an adjustment of tension that restores the unladen attitude of the truck.
 
Thanks Guys,
Just found this
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=11725410&cat=531&lpid=&search=

It should be in the range of my needs, and ready for the Reese dual cam when we want it.  Hopefully it is still available when I get home tonight.
 
Looks like it has the arms for the dual cam are there, but they look different than mine.  It would be good to know what is included and what is not.  The bars are indeed curved at the end to accept the dual cam arms.  If you got everything on the picture, you would be all set.
 
It seems to be a round bar Reese Dual Cam with the older style of cam arms.  I had very similar cam arms on the 15 year old rig on my trailer.  As pictured it should work but no guarantees.  One caution, note that the cam arms are attached to the frame by U-bolts.  Those could interfere with propane tank racks or battery racks on your A-frame.
 
While I really like the Dual Cam hitch and recommend it highly, you can buy a brand new WD hitch from Amazon or ebay for under or around $300. Valley makes one for $269.
http://www.buyautotruckaccessories.com/product.cfm/cf-bin/pn.valley-trunnion-bar-weight-distribution-hitch/

A very basic new WD (equalizing) hitch is only $159 + about $50 shipping on ebay.  And with a trailer that light, a friction-type sway control works adequately if you need to sway control (recommended). If you are on a budget, consider one like this

I would think that 800 lb bars would be more than sufficient for that size trailer. 600# might do it, but 800 is better unless you have very stiff suspension on the tow vehicle. I don't think Explorers are real stiff.
edit: shortened link to remove horizontal scroll.
 
The good news was the listed link is for a brand new reese 800 WD hitch still in the box, not the one pictured.  The bad news is it sold after I had talked to him.  I am usually in town and have most of the day to pick stuff like this up but am out of the state for work today for the first time in over two months. 

The other good news is I am a member of Amazon Prime and overnight shipping is only $4.  So i am ordering the Valley hitch and sway control bar.  Hopefully it comes tomorrow or I will be putting it on, on Thursday before leaving, amongst my other last minute projects.
 
Carl L said:
One caution, note that the cam arms are attached to the frame by U-bolts.  Those could interfere with propane tank racks or battery racks on your A-frame.
Click to expand...

Good point.  If they are in the way, it would be good to check how they are fastened to the frame.  When I got my current trailer, they moved the Reese dual cam and WD brackets from the old trailer to the current trailer.  The propane tank tray was in the way of the brackets for the dual arm, however the tray was just screwed to the A-frame with self tapping screws.  The dealer removed the tray and moved it fore a few inches to make room for the brackets.
 
Just updating.

I ordered the Valley 800lb EQ hitch from Amazon and got it 1pm of our departure day.

Took over 5 hours to get it figured and installed.  The battery tray got in the way so the chain was not perfectly vertical but close enough.  The EQ hitch combined with the Valley sway preventer worked like a charm and we were both comfortable towing it.  Thanks for all the help.
 
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