1990 Coachman Classic 36' - John Deere Chassis - 460 Ford

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amarine1 said:
Any other comments from the forum participants?

/always looking for honest opinions

Ya, wash the windows!  :eek:
 
KlipschHead281 said:
Ya, wash the windows!  :eek:

Windows get done last, buttinski (oh evil brother).  :)  I need new windshield wipers and that should be next weekend.

Got the front 9" Magnavox TV working (bad fuse in dc adapter), so I connected it to 110 connection instead. Bad VCP (it eats tapes) in it tho, so I am looking for a replacement combo VCP/TV. Connected Apex Digital TV tuner to 110 and connected via coax (and using Coach Antenna, got a few channels).

I then put in the 9" Emerson TV/VCP from the garage intio the rear TV enclosure (connecting to DC) and connecting a DVD Player to an RF adapter. DVD through channel 4 worked, so I now have a TV/VCP & DVD in back. It isn't a flat screen LCD, but it should do for now. )

Also installed the Sony Boombox with rear speaker connectors, and I will be connecting the rear bedroom speakers to it also.

Still have the over 250 degrees being noticed on the water temp guage. Also, I need to check the Oil Pressure guage or sending unit. Discovered my gen doesn't run when driving if fuel tank is below 1/2 full.

Getting closer to understanding the RV in any amount of real detail.
 
Amazing for 20 years old.  You got a nice rig and a good deal.  Very good.

The things that need work seem pretty doable and many are non-repeating so once they are fixed, and you continue using it, you will just have normal maintenance.  Keep in mind that people with much newer, and more expensive rigs, have things wrong that need to be fixed.  You could have spent a lot more and still need to spend major money in the first year.  It sounds like you are able to deal with most of the problems on your own so soon the list will be almost gone. 

Sounds like your major issue is the engine temp/rich exhaust,  and some things to try have been suggested.  Can you get the exhaust checked?  In states with emissions check programs, that should be available and might give you some clues to probelms or even eliminate them.

I recognize the remote temperature gauge.  Harbor Freight.  Or at least that's where i got mine.  Dirt cheap, but works.
 
amarine1 said:
Windows get done last, buttinski (oh evil brother).  :)  I need new windshield wipers and that should be next weekend.

Got the front 9" Magnavox TV working (bad fuse in dc adapter), so I connected it to 110 connection instead. Bad VCP (it eats tapes) in it tho, so I am looking for a replacement combo VCP/TV. Connected Apex Digital TV tuner to 110 and connected via coax (and using Coach Antenna, got a few channels).

I then put in the 9" Emerson TV/VCP from the garage intio the rear TV enclosure (connecting to DC) and connecting a DVD Player to an RF adapter. DVD through channel 4 worked, so I now have a TV/VCP & DVD in back. It isn't a flat screen LCD, but it should do for now. )

Also installed the Sony Boombox with rear speaker connectors, and I will be connecting the rear bedroom speakers to it also.

Still have the over 250 degrees being noticed on the water temp guage. Also, I need to check the Oil Pressure guage or sending unit. Discovered my gen doesn't run when driving if fuel tank is below 1/2 full.

Getting closer to understanding the RV in any amount of real detail.

Typically, the cut off for the genny is ? tank, strange but as you know, I found this out yesterday as well. Mine cuts off at ? tank.
 
I had the exact same chassis and engine [I love the 460 Ford, had it on the first Coachman Leprechaun that it was in for 60k miles!] but with a Gulfstream Friendship A coach on that setup. Mine initially ran very hot. I made my first run a trip to the top engine man in Abq at that time. Jim is still as knowledgeable. There's two big hills going from Q to the Pojoaque valley via Santa Fe and back to go to Q.

This is what I learned thanks to Jim Stakus of Statkus motors, Q [Albuquerque.] He did the work, we stayed in the coach overnight for the 12 hr job. He also has an in the floor dyno to st the coach wheels on.

1. The Ford 460 for '90 needs help at both ends as well as on the block.

The front air opening is like having the small end of a funnel capturing the air instead of the big end It needed opening up drastically.So he did it.

The back end needs major work! The manifolds are poor quality, overheat and if not replaced earlier you'll find cracked bolts holding those red hot heaters. They had to be drilled out with a diamond bit. The tail pipes to the muffler need to be 3" minimum. I got 3.25, the largest available where he subcontracted -Midas. The muffler is another flow constrictor. It was replaced with the largest turbo muffler Midas made.

The spark plugs were not the best available for a coach 37' that was really working, but OK for an F-150. He replaced those and set them up.

NO MORE OVERHEATING, EVER! It was a cool engine on the drive home.

The shocks were standard and I had him replace those with Bilstines. There may be better today, like Konas. The ride changed very noticeably.

The next issues I had to deal with were a long overhang that on the A caused wander and fishtailing and the stock 3 speed transmission with no overdrive.  I drove to the Gear Vendors  Dist. in Denver Co, Western Transmission [?] as I remember. I added the Gear Vendors gearsplitter. I gained a true overdrive and a gear between 1-2 and 2-3. That also increased my mpg from 5-5.5 to 6.5-7.1 -7/2. And I now had a great aid in keeping up torque in the mountains and on long grades, very helpful here in the west.

I also had them install a Safe-T Plus steering stabilizer that help the Oshkosh chassis track more true. From then on my then wife Bev would drive it in any pass and in any wind. The Davis True Track Bar can also be a good add on.

Good luck. Take care of the drive train and it will take care of you.

We sold the coach at the beginning of her metastasized breast cancer battle four years ago.  She died late last summer.

My now wife Estelle and I are looking for a mh and hope to be RVing before the end of the year.
 
Bob Maxwell said:
  The front air opening is like having the small end of a funnel capturing the air instead of the big end It needed opening up drastically.So he did it.

I have a 36' Southwind on a John Deere chassis with a Ford 460.  When I bought my rig I had a problem with the front air intake...it was gone.  The only way air entered the air filter was through the opening in the air cleaner itself.  All the parts of the intake system between the air cleaner and the intake tube above the radiator was gone.  All it did was suck in hot air from around the engine itself.

I wound up using a flexible, insulated clothes dryer vent tube to run from the air cleaner to the front of the rig.  I mounted this just behind the grill and off to the passenger side, shielded by the solid part of the front grill panel.  It receives a lot of fresh air this way and no rainwater.

I saw an ad on eBay for custom made air cleaner assemblies.  The builder, I think he was in Tennessee, created stock Ford 460 air cleaners with round air intakes on both sides or on just one side (stock air cleaners have a narrow, oval shaped intake-at least on the JD chassis according to the manual).  If you are having a problem getting air into the engine you might do a search for "Ford 460 Air Cleaner" on eBay and create a better intake system.

As for your richness problem, carbs need adjustment as they get older.  I'm not a Ford mechanic, a Harley mechanic yes, but the systems are similar.  If your float is gas logged it would have to cause fuel to spill over into the throttle chamber, possible, but it's not what I would consider my first diagnosis.  I would adjust the carb, but it's not much more trouble to just rebuild the carb and be done with it.
 
The cut-off point for the genny is really ....  Things to consider might be: how accurate is the fuel gauge to judge this? How deep into the tank is the fuel pickup for the genny?

None of this really matters much as long as YOU know where you're at on your particular unit and how to avoid a problem.
 
Another thing to consider regarding the carb richness problem could be a ruptured power valve caused by a backfire through the carb. You can replace the power valve by removing the front fuel bowl but if it were me I would go with a rebuild as was mentioned earlier.

John
 
Excellent info all, thanks. I've been looking for people with similar chassis / setup, so this is all valuable info.

The front air dam looks beautifully intact, so I will be looking at every aspect of the air intake this coming weekend. I suspect the sending units might be "off", so I will take it in to a Truck shop and have the units tested (re: the temp and the non working oil pressure guage).

I've stayed close to home (state park campground 10 minutes away) as I work through everything. I won't trust it to go further until I know every inch of the RV (and can trust the guages regarding the information they are sending me).

It appears from receipts that work was done to the engine and tranny at 48K (in 2002) which was 8 thousand miles ago, so I am looking at doing a cursory effort at trying to do maintenance. I will post the details of the maintenance from 2002 in a future post (it migh help with insight regarding its present condition).

I presently store it on my driveway (it is a 90 ft. cement driveway), so I have no storage fees and it acts as a fence to my neighbor (**bonus**). I am concerned tho about the winter, so I will be looking for advice to winterize it (we get our first cold blast usually by 11/10).
 
Bob Maxwell:

Thanks for the info. Normally I don't get personal in my online posts, but your post struck a nerve with me and I appreciate your sharing your story (however brief) with me.

On a personal note, I'm sorry to hear about your wife's cancer and her passing. My brother and I ourselves just went through over 2 years of heaven/hell (the only way to describe it) as our mother had Pancreatic cancer. We really got to know our mother very closely (and went through both the highs and the lows). She is the first person in our family to have had cancer (that we know of), and it is a very insideous desease that I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.

It also appears you have rebounded and found another person to share your life with (you are a lucky man to be so blessed), so I wish you both luck regarding finding that elusive RV that fills all of your traveling needs.

This RV seems to have brought my wife and I closer (as the possibilities become endless and she knows I am now serious about her and I spending time together). As I am a Systems Administrator / IT Director, I've been married to my job for over 14 years and my wife deserves some quality time with me. This RV is hopefully going to help me towards that goal. I am spending every free moment getting this RV ready for some long term enjoyment. I also want to be smart with my money and not waste it (given the present economy, this needs to be a wise investment). The Coachmen is modern enough to not be needing a visual over-haul (it isn't stuck in the '70's or '80's regarding the interior), it just needed cleaning... which we did.  The exterior is modern enough and just needs washing waxing. The few items needing repair, are such that I can handle much of it and the RV gives me enough room to get at most things.

I am stoked about this RV, and look forward to it being a source of enjoyment for years to come.
 
From the pictures and comments so far, it looks like you have found a RV in great condition.  I'm sure you will enjoy it. 

The carb solutions proposed are all worth looking into.  If you choose to take it to a shop, be sure to ask if they have guys experienced in rebuilding carbs.  It seems that the youger guys have not experienced them and only deal with fuel injection systems.  They are not teaching carb repair in the trade schools.  They are simple, but can be intimidating for the first time.  Ours had a carb gasket fail many years ago.  I got a carb rebuilt kit just for the gasket, ~$30.  I kept the kit incase I needed more parts, but not needed yet.

Our factory intake is a commercial version of a dryer hose fix, but smoother & more rigid.  http://www.mcmaster.com and http://www.millsupply.com/will have most of the miscellaneous parts you may need.  Freightliner, 800-385-4357, still offers parts at a reasonable price.

Ours is stored outside next to the house as well.  We winterize the plumbing for the winter, run the engine & generator 1x/month and watch the snow pile up on top.  I use the pink RV/Marine non-toxic antifreeze after blowing the lines out with 40psi air.  Look for a hot water tank winter by-pass on its back side.  This greatly reduces the amount of antifreeze you will need.
 
Thank you for your kind remarks.

I spent 17 years in IT amd an RV is a great tool to get away. In addition, with today's remote access options, you can access aything you need to if the oncall tech needs assistance. We've more than one programmer here that does that and one staff member that been fulltime for more than a decade.

Do have those manifolds and pipes checked out as well. You know how important the bigest pipes possible are in avoiding energy constriction and heat build up.  ;)
 
I had a 1989 Allegro on the John Deere chassis with a 460, mine liked to run hot also to the point of vapor locking, I built an air dam , installed a banks exhaust and a Holly hi volume fuel pump. That took care of all the issues i had with it running hot and leaving me in the roadway. The air dam i took a piece of 60 sheet metal and made the dam and mounted it on a L bracket  underneath  the engine. Good luck
 
Brudda,

You have to check out the DOT tire codes on the tires and we know of one tire in serious need right now so we'll check that this weekend. 
 
I'll be checking them tomorrow morning (I get home too late in the evening and don't like feeding the skeeters). :)
 
amarine1 said:
I'll be checking them tomorrow morning (I get home too late in the evening and don't like feeding the skeeters). :)

Don't worry, they're all full from the last time I was there.  :eek:
 
Find a hidden site map somewhere? I looked over that website six days from sunday and found nothing pointing to older manuals.

I am going through it now and see the "My RV section" and the drop down from there for owners manuals. I could swear that wasn't there when I was looking........ <probably at 3 am..... d'oh>.

Tusen Tak my favourite fiend/bruddah.

/already downloaded and printed
 
amarine1 said:
It also runs hot (250 avg when 70 degrees out, more when hotter).

250 deg is TOO hot. IMO the John Deere Chassis w/ the 460 Ford was a poor design for cooling from the get go. I had a 1989 Overland with a 460 Ford and it also had a overheating problem. I finally put a fan in front of the radiator and this fixed my overheating problem. I would also get the radiator rodded out or replaced.

Don't overlook this problem @ 250 deg it is only a matter of time befor you burn up your engine.
 
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