i just replaced all three batteries in my 1993 bounder. none of my lights or any thing else would work.when i started the engine the alternator gauge went to the far left and engine started to die so i shut it off.ihad the two 6 volt batteries neg . to neg . i then swapped the 6 volts ps to negative.still nothing worked. istarted the engine it then burned the wires off the 12volt starter battery. there is a cable that goes from 12 voltpos to the 6v pos this is the one that burned. if any of this makes sense can someone tell me what im doing wrong?
fried battery cables
- Thread starter 1968aj
- Start date
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The first thing you did wrong was NOT taking a picture, or making a drawing, of how things were wired BEFORE you touched anything.
The cable directly between the pos of the 12V starting battery and the pos of the first 6V battery should not be there.
The pos of the first 6v battery should go to the BCC (Battery Control Center). You may have a second large cable on the 6V pos if you have power levelers.
The pos of the 12V starter battery should go directly to the starter solenoid and a second cable to the BCC (different connecting point than the 6V).
The cable directly between the pos of the 12V starting battery and the pos of the first 6V battery should not be there.
The pos of the first 6v battery should go to the BCC (Battery Control Center). You may have a second large cable on the 6V pos if you have power levelers.
The pos of the 12V starter battery should go directly to the starter solenoid and a second cable to the BCC (different connecting point than the 6V).
S
seilerbird
Guest
1968aj said:
It sounds like you are doing just about everything wrong. The 12 volt system and the 6 volt systems should not be mixed. The two 6 volts should be wired in series. In other words you have a positive and negative wire to be hooked up to the two batteries. The positive lead goes to the positive post on battery number one. The negative post of battery number one goes to the positive post on battery number two. The negative lead goes to the negative post on battery number two. You are going to have to take it to a professional and have him test the systems and see what you have fried. It doesn't look good to me.
thanks for all the help. i just figuered it out, what i thought was ahot wire was really the ground cable for the 6v batteries.it looked like it went to pos on my 12v .itwas in a bundle of wires that went to the pos 12 but split off to the frame. my alternator gauge is way over at 9 now so i think imay have ruined my alternator.every thing else works fine now.i really feel dumb now as im always wrenching on my kenworth my harley and my old chevy pickup.thanks for the answers .if you guys are ever around houston iowe you on e but iwill not change your batteries
Mexray
Well-known member
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- Aug 31, 2006
- Posts
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Connecting the battery 'backwards' almost always 'fries' the alternator the moment you turn the ignition ON and try to start the engine...!
The output diodes built into the alternator usually can't handle the high current surge, along with other unwanted bits being fried as well...
It's probably best to remove the alternator and take it to an automotive electrical shop than knows about this stuff - not necessarily your corner chain type auto parts store (IMHO most of them don't know up from down when to auto electronic stuff!)...check your phone book for a 're-builder' type shop...they deal with this stuff every day!
You've figured out the error of your ways...however, I always tell customers to look at the two 6 volt batteries as being, in essence, one BIG 12 volt battery - as such you have to have a HOT (pos) connection and a GROUND (neg) connection to hook to your vehicle - that being said, in effect demands that the other two terminals on the batteries must be hooked to each other (SERIES type connection) to complete the circuit - also - NO OTHER CONNECTIONS are made to these two series connections!!!!
It's rather easy to hook up 6 volt batteries 'backwards' as the terminals are on opposite corners, and the battery could be turned end-for-end and appears the 'same' - a closer look will show that the POS terminal is ALWAYS larger in diameter than the NEG terminal (also true on 12 V batt's), as an aid to making the correct connections - the POS cable opening being larger, is usually a LOOSE fit if you try to put it on the NEG terminal, etc., etc....when using 'eye' cable connectors on a GC battery, you're sunk, as the cable will fit on either 5/16 inch stud connector - look carefully at the + or - marks next to the terminals to make the correct connection...
Good luck,
Ray
Ray
The output diodes built into the alternator usually can't handle the high current surge, along with other unwanted bits being fried as well...
It's probably best to remove the alternator and take it to an automotive electrical shop than knows about this stuff - not necessarily your corner chain type auto parts store (IMHO most of them don't know up from down when to auto electronic stuff!)...check your phone book for a 're-builder' type shop...they deal with this stuff every day!
You've figured out the error of your ways...however, I always tell customers to look at the two 6 volt batteries as being, in essence, one BIG 12 volt battery - as such you have to have a HOT (pos) connection and a GROUND (neg) connection to hook to your vehicle - that being said, in effect demands that the other two terminals on the batteries must be hooked to each other (SERIES type connection) to complete the circuit - also - NO OTHER CONNECTIONS are made to these two series connections!!!!
It's rather easy to hook up 6 volt batteries 'backwards' as the terminals are on opposite corners, and the battery could be turned end-for-end and appears the 'same' - a closer look will show that the POS terminal is ALWAYS larger in diameter than the NEG terminal (also true on 12 V batt's), as an aid to making the correct connections - the POS cable opening being larger, is usually a LOOSE fit if you try to put it on the NEG terminal, etc., etc....when using 'eye' cable connectors on a GC battery, you're sunk, as the cable will fit on either 5/16 inch stud connector - look carefully at the + or - marks next to the terminals to make the correct connection...
Good luck,
Ray
Ray
here is a update and another question. now that i have everything hooked up properly i have determined that my alternator is not charging. does anyone know if there are any fuses between battery and alternator? i know on some vehicles there is a fusable link. i would hate to change alternator if its only a fuse.
It's highly unlikely that there is a fuse, or a fusible link, in the charge path from the alternator to the battery. However, you are going to need a multimeter to check, so you may as well check the output of your alternator in the process.
