Does anyone use an awning clamp?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
ceemike

ceemike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Posts
607
Location
Pennsylvania
Recently I've heard a couple of stories about awnings coming unfurled while driving.  I didn't know it could happen if the awning was correctly stored according to the awning manufacturer's instructions & all the latches were latched & knobs tightened. 

Is this a fairly common accident?  Does anyone use some kind of awning clamp?  I found this one on the internet.  http://www.rvinnovations.com/CustomDocs/AwningClamp.asp  Are there other styles?

I sure don't want this to happen to me.  I imagine it could cause a lot of damage to the RV, not to mention really disrupting your trip.



 
ceemike

I use white nylon tye-wraps on each upright after I have rolled up the awning and prepared for travelling. It's a very simple procedure to snip them and toss them when we want to unfurl. I have been told by friends that this is completely unnecessary, but, I do it anyway. If only travelling a short distance, say for a weekend near home, I wouldn't bother, but for a long trip at highway speeds, I spend the 15 cents and 30 seconds.
IMHO, I figure for the replacement co$t of an awning and subsequent damage, I can probaby afford 36 trillion tye-wraps.

Dave
 
I have the one you have the link to and it was easy to install and easy to use and looks like it is doing the job it was designed to do.  I feel it is cheap insurance.  Purchased it at camping world when it was on sale.
 
I like the idea of the tye wraps, Tom has lots of those.  For $49 I could buy a lot.  Think I will use a couple on the awning and arms.  I know they shouldn't come down but better safe then sorry.

I sure like a lot of the ideas you guys have on here, very helpful.
 
I nefer did anything till I was sitting in the hot tub with 2 people who had their awnings come loose while driving. One damaged the roof when it broke off.
I now use tyraps around the top of the upright and around the bracket at the top attached to the side.
 
Nvrver,

I heard the same thing, that wrapping tie wraps or bungee cords around the awning arms doesn't prevent unfurling.  Somehow the wind unwraps the awning fabric even though the awning arms are still attached to the RV. 

When you installed your clamp did you look for a stud in the side wall or did you just measure & drill into the side will without looking for a stud?
 
When our awning came unfurled on I-70, ties on the arms would not have stopped the fabric from unfurling. An internal gizmo let the wind unfurl the awning. I wish we had the awning clamp. The one in the link requires, I believe, drilling holes in your RV? I think there are ones that work that don't require drilling holes. We were going to buy something at the FMCA rally but couldn't find any. It's on our list of things to buy SOONEST for the RV.

Wendy
 
I also worried about awning coming unfurled. Plus never really trusted the rear arm 'latch.  Made one of these a year or so ago ~~ No Problems.

1.) 6' piece of 1/4" steel rod ( same dia. as slot that awning accessories slide into when awning extended). $6 +-  S.S. would be more $$ Some use aluminum but seems too soft to me.

2.) Make a 90? bend  3"-4" from one end of rod.

3.)After awning is rolled up against side of RV ~ Insert 3" end of 'rod' into awing 'slot' just infront of rear awning arm.  Wrap long end of rod cown~around~back of awning arm. Secure with velcro wrap ~ Etc.Etc.  This lock the the roller and it cannot turn(unfurl).

See attached photos ~ Hope it helps.  TakeCare ~ TravelSafe ~ HaveFun        ~~Kate~~
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2644 (Small).JPG
    IMG_2644 (Small).JPG
    15.4 KB · Views: 82
  • IMG_2727 (Small).JPG
    IMG_2727 (Small).JPG
    14.8 KB · Views: 85
  • IMG_2732 (Small).JPG
    IMG_2732 (Small).JPG
    13.2 KB · Views: 87
  • IMG_2645 (Small).JPG
    IMG_2645 (Small).JPG
    11.2 KB · Views: 90
Save your tie-wraps for bundling wires together, they don't keep your roller tube from unwinding.  Even if the awning support arms are locked against the side of the RV and don't move, the roller tube can spin around and unfurl the awning fabric.  Once some fabric has unfurled from the roller tube, the wind will fill it and pull even more fabric off from the roller tube.  Fabric doesn't last long when the winds are whipping it around like that and will eventually be shredded.  Ask me how I know.  8)

The older cam style lock used in older A&E awnings wears out, and has been known to fail when it wears down.  When the cam lock fails, it lets the roller tube spin around letting the awning fabric unfurl.  If your awning lock makes loud, audible clicks as you bring it in or out, it has the new style lock.  If it doesn't click loudly, it's the old style of torsion spring assembly and lock which uses cams and not cogs.  No matter which type of lock you have on your awning but especially if you have the cam type lock, I would recommend adding another awning lock like the one you can build yourself (for about $15) shown in the following link:

http://www.happy-wanderers.com/technical-articles/94-aae-awning-lock
 
We use this one.

http://awninglock.com/index.shtml

I bought the one from Camping World that is linked to above first but to install it you have to drill holes in the roof and I'm paranoid about leaks so I returned it.

I think it is a good idea to have something that locks the tube from unrolling in strong winds so I don't think you will go wrong with either design or through making your own with the the suggestions above.

If you order this one they have different designs for different awnings. I had to unroll mine completely and get the model number off the tube. If you have questions about how to find your model number call them up. They were very helpful on the phone.

Michelle
 
Good information, I'd assumed the problem started with arm latches not holding. Now I can see what the real problem is.
 
Michelle,

I like the looks of the one you use.  :)  The one I posted, the Awning Clamp, says I need to use two of them since my awning is 17' long & I would have to drill into my roof which I don't like anymore than you do.  With the Awning Lock I'd need only one & no holes in the roof.  Thanks for your post. 

Thanks  to everyone who replied to my post with their ideas & suggestions.  That's what makes this forum a great resource.
 
Pam (a.k.a.-Maddog-driver),

With the rod to secure the roller do you use anything to protect the awning arm from scratching from the rod?
 
maddog348,

What is shown in the last photo (IMG_2645) above?  I can't make it out. 

Also, I wonder whether the force of the wind turning the roller tube could bend the steel rod enough to allow some awning fabric to unfurl.  I can't imagine the roller tube ever being able to turn more than a few inches with the steel rod inserted thru the endcap and into the roller tube unless the endcap breaks.  The endcap on my roller tube is made of metal and is held onto the roller tube with two aluminum pop rivets, so I would think that your steel rod awning lock should hold in all but the worst windstorms.
 
rsalhus,  img 2645 show bottom end of rod as wraps behind arm securing knob.  The 'bending' factor is why I chose steel over aluminum.  To bend the steel rod I put it in a large vice and 'wanged' it hard with a BIG hammer many times.

codgerbill,  I slid pvc tubing over the long end of the rod. (hardest part of the whole building process).  The original one I saw was just 'nekkid'.
 
maddog,

I was looking at possibly adding an awning lock like yours.  I found out a couple of things by observing the operation of our awning: 
  • First, the roller tube where connected to the rear awning arm has to rotate counter-clockwise (when viewed from the rear) to unfurl any awning fabric.  This rotation will tend to pull the long end of the steel rod upward a little (the short end of the steel rod is normally attached at about the 2 o'clock position through the endcap) before pushing it down again (to about the 9 o'clock position which is as far as it can go) when the roller tube rotates.  Velcro applied around your awning support arm and the long end of the steel rod probably won't keep the steel rod from sliding up and down those few inches of rotation (especially if the steel rod is inserted inside of PVC tubing).  This could theoretically let several inches of awning fabric unfurl from the roller tube (I haven't tested it yet so I'm still just theorizing).
  • Second, the hole through the endcap into the roller tube slot (of our awning, anyway) will accept a 5/16" steel rod, which will be considerably stronger and tighter than the 1/4" steel rod that you are currently using for your lock.  A 5/16' steel rod might work better for you also.
  • Third, the steel rod awning lock cannot be used at the front of the awning because the awning lock lever would be in the way.
  • Fourth, the endcaps on the roller tube are fastened with 3 pop rivets instead of 2 as I mistakenly posted previously. (Not that 3 rivets are that much stronger than two, but just to set the record straight.)

I'd like to hear your comments on these observations and the results of any testing that you have done on your awning lock.



 
rsalhus ~~  My lock rod classed 1/4" (5/16 too hard to install in slot) just fits into slot.  Only need to lock 1 end (the rear)  of roller tube.  Long end of rod wrapped around arm is VERY secure No slippage up or down.  Tube seems very solid.  As far as other 'testing' NO I have not tried to deploy awing with rod in place. 2 yr ~ 7-9K miles (some in moderate winds) ~ no problems. PVC tube (clear/soft) same i.d. as rod o.d.  ~ tight fit ~ put on with determination ~ soapy water ~ praying ~ and a little swearing.  JM2?
 
maddog,

Well, if the steel rod awning lock works for you that's all that matters.  I've used the awning lock that I referred to above for over 2 years now as well, also with good results.  I've had to replace the "picture hanger" part of that awning lock already, I think the first one was weakened by corrosion and eventually broke while hooking it up.  But they came two to a pack, so I had a spare.  That part seems to be the weakest link in that lock.  I'm now looking for something stronger.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 796 (members: 25, guests: 771)

Forum statistics

Threads
131,966
Posts
1,388,391
Members
137,718
Latest member
urnwholesaler
Back
Top Bottom