Leveling jack won't retract fully

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yfx4

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First off, I'm glad I found this forum--I'm getting a ton of ideas just reading old threads!!

We have a 2005 WB Adventurer on a w24 chassis. The left front leveling jack will retract to about 1" from seated then stop. The other three do fine. I can use a pole and push it up so the alerts stop. Will "helper springs" be best or replace the OE ones thinking it may be bad?? I cleaned the piston shaft and saw no scratches or evidence of damage. fluid levels are OK.  Any ideas??

TIA!!!!
 
Do you have the new style tapered springs?  If not, that may be the answer.  I cant think of another reason the jack wont retract fully.  If you can manually push it up, then the solenoid is opening the valve.  Unless the jack is bent, springs are likely the problem.

Maybe others will have more suggestions.

Paul
 
Paul & Ann said:
Do you have the new style tapered springs?  If not, that may be the answer.  I cant think of another reason the jack wont retract fully.  If you can manually push it up, then the solenoid is opening the valve.  Unless the jack is bent, springs are likely the problem.

Maybe others will have more suggestions.

Paul

I'll look at the springs and see what style they are. Might as well take a photo too. Thank you for the idea!!!
 
yfx4 said:
Oh, where is the best place to get the right springs??

I believe they should be $21.46 each plus tax and shipping.

http://www.hwh.com

563-724-3396
800-321-3494

Paul
 
Spray your cylinder liberaly on all sides with SILICONE while extended. Others will tell you many other things to use but I heard silicone 7 years ago and it still works for me today...Good Miles
 
There are diverse opinions about spraying the jack shafts. 

Paul Smith of HWH says to never spray the shafts with anything.  Some of the HWH techs will advise you spray them.  The Winnebago Itasca Travelers magazine usually contains a "tech tips" article written by the Winnie service management, the latest one discusses jack performance and maintenance.  They do advise you can spray the shaft with WD-40 and then wipe the shaft with a rag or whatever.  Their caveat is that if your retraction time is improved, it will be a temporary phenomena and will not be a fix that addresses the root cause of the problem.

If you have slow retraction, it will be due to the springs, the jack itself, maybe a solenoid, or blockage somewhere in the hydraulic line.
 
I had this problem on my coach.
First check for lube fittings on your jacks and grease them all
then spray on some silicone spray and clean your jack posts to a nice shine. I clean my jacks before retracting if they sit more than a week or so and always after an extended stay.
 
Spoke with HWH yesterday and they said that I should d/c the hydraulic hose while the jack is 'stuck' (the system is self-bleeding). She thinks the cylinder is the problem since it takes quite an effort to push the jack up--if the springs were bad it would go up with little effort. By d/c-ing the hose I will see if it is the cylinder (the jack will 'stay stuck') or the valve (the jack will pop up and I will get a little oil on me). A new cylinder is about $325 and seems fairly straightforward to change.
 
If you have PowerGear leveling jacks PowerGear says NOT to use WD40 on the cylinders because of its effects on the seals. They recommend using dry silicone to avoid creating a sticky surface that attracts dirt.
 
Scott,

I had an almost identical problem with my 2004 Winnebago Brave.  The first dealer I took it to replaced both front solenoid valves which didn't solve the problem.  The second dealer replaced the return springs on both front jacks with the new style tapered springs.  That solved the problem.  I've attached the HWH service bulletin that addresses jack retraction times.  Read page 2 for a description of the new style springs.

Mike
 

Attachments

  • HWH Bulletin ml44725.pdf
    10.2 KB · Views: 61
ceemike said:
Scott,

I had an almost identical problem with my 2004 Winnebago Brave.  The first dealer I took it to replaced both front solenoid valves which didn't solve the problem.  The second dealer replaced the return springs on both front jacks with the new style tapered springs.  That solved the problem.  I've attached the HWH service bulletin that addresses jack retraction times.  Read page 2 for a description of the new style jacks. 

Mike

Thank you!! It's great to get advice from folks with WAY more experience and knowledge than I.

The paragraph below caught my eye (emphasis added). I will probably get the new springs but am expecting a new cylinder.

If the jacks will retract completely but exceed the allowable retraction times, replacing the return springs will in most cases resolve the problem. In normal conditions above freezing, if a jack will retract with a little assistance, replacing the springs may resolve the problem. If a jack has to be forced up, as with a
pry bar, the cylinder will most likely have to be replaced.
If replacing the springs does not solve the problem, the cylinder must be replaced. NOTE: If the jack is equipped with the new style tapered springs, do not replace the springs, replace or repair the cylinder.


I'll check it like HWH said and go from there!!  8)
 
What brand of jack do you have?

IF NOT POWER GEAR HYDRAULIC.. Then this may not apply.

With Power Gear Hydraulic.. If you do not read the manual, they can fail to retract.

The owner's manual tells how to lubricate the jacks.    And sure enough.. The minute I lubed mine in compliance with the manual.. UP THEY WENT.

Page 2: The forum (Here) suggested a better way for 2 of my jacks.
 
the jacks are HWH. when I spoke to them the recommended procedure is wiping if they are dirty or after extended for a long time.
 
2007 Journey HWH jacks with tapered springs.
Rear pasenger side fails to retract all the way up.
When fully extended sprayed silicone on the silver tubes.
Noticed that one of the springs was rubbing on a nut making
pulling up hard. Lubed nut and spring with Jig a loo grease.
All retract all right now!!
 
The problem with slow retraction of hydraulic jacks is caused by the leading edge of the the jack seal drying out causing drag on the jack ram.  When I notice the jacks coming up slowly, I spray the seal with WD-40, and the jacks come right up.

Paul
 
Old Cajun said:
WD 40 is not a lubricant, it is a water displacer
Let the games begin. ;)

From the WD40 web site;
A Question of Lubrication Myth: WD-40? Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the ?W-D? in WD-40? stands for Water Displacement, WD-40? Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product?s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.

 

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