Fly Fishing the San Juan River in New Mexico

For my fellow fly fishers, here is my report of fly fishing the San Juan River in northern New Mexico, below Navajo Dam. After a summer of not too good fishing in Montana and Wyoming, Chuck and I got quite discouraged. Compared to our previous summers of fly fishing, it was just lousy, to say the least.

Working our way back to Tucson we decided to give the San Juan River a try......never did it before, and looking back now, wonder why we waited so long! A trip was set up with a reputable guide (Orvis endorsed) and of we went early the morning in his drift boat.

At our first meeting with the guide, we both were pleased and knew we were going to have a good day, never realizing just how good. Catching fish on this river is NOT easy, due to the size of the fish - huge Browns (native) and Rainbows (planted), with some Cutthroats (native) as well .The size of the nymphs are tiny - #22 -#26, with an almost invisible eye. For the nymphing in the morning we used 5 weight rods with a 6x tippet. We caught a lot of fish and the ones we netted were on an average of 18" - 26" The lost ones were even larger. And this is no fish story.

In the afternoon we used our 4 weight rods with hoppers and Had quite success with that as well. The next thing we knew the day was over and it was time to get of the river. What a day!!!!! As our guide pointed out, if you can fish this river; in other words, catch a fish, set the hook and bring it to the net, you can fish anywhere. Needless to say, we felt totally redeemed and not too sad to put our equipment away for another time.

Mariekie

Thanks for the report. I'll add the San Juan River to my list of 'waters to fish'.

Way to go.................we are heading out there in a few weeks.  Will camp at Abe's and fish the Quality Waters.  We've enjoyed every trip there and this will be 4th or 5th.  Did you try the hogs up above Texas Hole??? 

Then head to Chama and Conejos in Colorado.  Then to Red River and Rio Grande in Taos area.

WOW, sounds like you had a great time....18"-23" fish are nothing to sneeze about.  Trying to string tippet through #22-26 nymphs had to be tough.  Weren't you worried the nymph would break with fish that big?

I hate to say it; but I was glad to hear you guys didn't have much luck on the Madison....we were so disappointed and wondered what was going on; so if you had trouble I feel better.... : .  Like Tom, we'll be sure to add the San Juan to our list. 

Marsha~

Ya all could come to the FMCA rally in Farmington in a couple of weeks - visit with framily and fish the San Juan !

Wendy

Eaton1, 

Yes, we did wade fishing above Texas Hole, but fished at the Kiddie Hole......LOL!
Where on the Rio Grande in Taos do you fish? We are always looking for new and different rivers. In fact, this summer driving past the Arkansas river, between Salinas and Canon City, more towards Salina, it looked like good fishing is to be done there.

Marsha,

This is an amazing river and we will definitely return. What a challenge to your fly fishing skills. It takes at least 20 casts to a fish, before it decides to take the fly. With the nymphs you have to be patient. Then you have to be very skillful to get it to the net, without braking the tippet line. This was a total new way of fly casting to us. Chuck and I both learned some new techniques in how to bring such a huge fish with such an itty bitty nymph to the net. Key here is to let the reel do the work and you better have a good quality reel.

Tom,

As far as we are concerned the San Juan is a must for any serious fly fisher. The amenities at the dam area are not the greatest, but for good fly fishing, we will suck it up any day!!!!!
Marie

Lower Rio Grande: John Dunn bridge at confluence of Rio Pueblo De Taos or Pilar south of Taos on way to Santa Fe.  There is a nice campground on the river and you can wade up or down stream.  I like to fish the lower Red River below the trout hatchery and walk down toward the Rio Grande inside the box canyon.  It's a looooooong walk down but you can get to the Rio Grande from the campground near Questa on the north side of the confluence of the Red River and the Rio. 

Another good choice is the Cimarron below Eagle Nest Lake over by  Angle Fire.  Not huge fish or wide river but beautiful area and lots of fun with browns and stocked rainbows.

If you can get your hands on Taylor Streit's "Fly Fishing New Mexico", do so as he has one of best coverage of the whole state in my opinion.

Eeton 1,

Thank you, thank you for all the great information. I always suspected that the Cimarron should be good for fly fishinhg. I am immediately going to make work of it, to get hold of Taylor Streit's book.

This forum is such a font of information and not only for RVing - even for fly fishing. Due to this forum we go anually to the White River in Arkansas for some excellent fly fishing!

Mariekie

I'll be out there next year,  mid to late May, would you mind sharing your guide's name? Alos has anyone fly fished the Durango area?

Thanks
Ron

The guide is Bubba Smith, head Guide for Fisheads at Navajo Dam. He instructive and well respected on this river. Fisheads was awarded the 2008 Orvis Guide Service of the Year. There service is excellent and we will definitely use them again. All their guides are excellent. The owner Chris Taylor, used to guide out of Abe's, then started his own guide service and is now the only Orvis endorsed fly shop, out of Navajo Dam.

The best fishing in the Durango area is done on the San Juan River. Most of the guide shops in Durango go down to the San Juan for their fly fishing. On your own the best fishing is right in town on the Animas River, under the bridges. But keep in mind, May is spring time runoff out of the San Juan Mountains and the water can be very rough, till the end of June, for fly fishing on the Animas. Some rafters have even drowned that time of the year. Your best bet would be to just fish the San Juan River. Remember that is below the dam and is therefore controlled waters, with water temperatures around the mid 40's. So do not forget your waders!!!! It is like fishing in a huge spring creek.

Mariekie

San Juan waters are that cold year round since water is coming from several hundred feet deep and we wear thermals under the waders even in heat of summer.  I would even check the releases that time of year before heading that way since you may find it too high and fast for much wading opportunities.  Nobody can predict the winter or amount of runoff but I would have a backup plan.

You might want to access Mike Mora's website for the San Juan; he has invaluable info on the river, how to fish it during different seasons and techniques to employ.  Most folks hire a guide for their visit as fishing these monsters is an art into itself.  I know I went fishless my first visit there and suffered much embarrassment and frustration as football size trout nudged my leg to move my feet to stir up the silt and provide them a meal    A guide would have taught me a lot more than reading the printed word.  The normal fisherman/fisherwoman will refuse to believe that these hogs are slurping insects that are almost invisible to the naked eye.

Well said Eeton1.

Fishing the San Juan was a total new experience to me and without our guide I would have had a lot of problems. Those fish are HUGE and the nymphs are teensy weensy small. You can imagine the pride in being able to net a 26" Rainbow!!!!!! It sure puffed me up. I can just wax on forever...........and .......ever.....


Mariekie

Another area with the world class fly fishing waters for big trout is the Rio Pe?asco in S Central NM, in high desert country south of Cloudcroft, centered at Mayhill.  We try to keep it secret from casual fly swatters.

http://www.flyfishingconnection.com/riopenasco.html

This big Bob??  Better half got this one in Quality Waters on our last visit to area.

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There are as lot of fish over 24" in the Rio Pe?asco. I've a friend from SF that goes there instead of the San Juan --less pressure.  Both are great waterweays for reinbow and cutthroat.

Will have to try it some time.  We'll be east of there going up through Carlsbad this trip. 

Thanks for info.

Like the San Juan, a guide is recommended until you learn the river.

Appreciate all of the info, in my 35+ years of fly fishing, I have always hired a guide on new waters, they know the in and outs.
I have fished the west quite a bit, but never the San Juan, heard so much about it, since we will be RV the west next year I want to hit as many as the DW will tolerate, so if you all know of any others, I'd be glad to hear from you.

We will be traveling the SW portion of the US from NC, to the Grand Canyon, Moab, Zion, etc.

I've fished the upper areas, MT, UT, WY, CO and ID.

Thanks

Biz,

I don't know if you are familiar with fly fishing on this river, but do not overlook the White River in the northern Arkansas Ozarks, below the Bull Shoals Dam. There are some reputable guides out of the Cotter and Mountain Home area, to be used. Although it is year round fishing, the best times of the year is April and September, October. Lots of nice Browns and Rainbows to be caught.

There is a very nice campground on the White River at Cotter - Denton Ferry RV Park - with beautiful sites on the river. Once you are familiar with the river you can walk right out of the campground to do some excellent wade fishing in the river. You just have to be watchful for the rising water, being let out at the dam. Not to fear, the park owners will "educate" you about that aspect of the river. It posed no problem to our fishing.

Since you are from the Eastern part of the States, maybe you can give us some pointers on fly fishing in that part of the country. Next year we will be traveling out east and are eager to try the waters out there. Information on Fly Shops and guides will be highly appreciated. Literally uncharted waters to us - no pun intended.

Mariekie

Mariekie,

When you're ready to hit SE, post up and I'll give you some leads in N. GA, TN and SW NC as well.  To wet your appetite, Dukes Creek and upper Hooch in Helen GA