Hello everyone! I have a 1998 Monaco Diplomat DP that I just purchased and I want to store it in my shop but I need to lower it about an inch or two so it will clear the overhead door? My question question is there anyway I can drain t the air from the bags enough to get in the door? Shop door is 11' 11" and that is the exact heigth of my coach according to my manuals?
Monaco diplomat lowering question?
- Thread starter ohorn
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Tom
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You can use the air dump switch to lower the coach but, as soon as you start the engine, it's going to want to inflate the air bags. If the air pressure is too low, the brakes won't release and you won't be able to move the coach. I went through this with our Monaco Camelot - see here. OTOH since you only need an inch, you might get away with it.
Thanks fro the reply my dump seems to only lower the front of my coach is that normal for this coach? Also is there any adjustments that can be made to lower the ride height? I know if I have to I can lower the tire pressure and gain some clearence but was lookig for another way?
Thanks!
Thanks!
BernieD
Well-known member
If you permanently lower the ride height you can cause major problems. The angle of the drive shaft to the transmission is critical and lowering the ride height will change the angle.
Tom
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I believe your Diplomat sits on the Roadmaster RR8R chassis. All 8 air bags should dump, unless you maybe have a bad/stuck dump valve.
Our coach drops more in the front than the rear, so that may be what you're seeing. I would not recommend driving it any distance, even into a garage, if it's not at ride height or you risk severe damage to the drive train.
You could deflate the tires enough to clear the door, but don't forget to air them back up again.
You could deflate the tires enough to clear the door, but don't forget to air them back up again.
Molaker
Well-known member
There's an old Missouri mule joke along that line. You silly guy. He's worried about the top hitting the top of the door, not the tires dragging. ;Dyfx4 said:
Ned said:
Really? I cannot imagine what could be damaged rolling a few feet into a storage building. Certainly the Drive shaft will handle the angle we are talking 6" of drop tops. The system has to be able to handle a full g-out or the design is bad. Will it rub, is there interference? not arguing just surprised by that one. Anybody got a photo or 3d model of tha chassis?
wayne
Utclmjmpr
Well-known member
I somewhat agree with Ned,, because on most diesel pushers the driveline is very short between pumpkin and trans. therefore a large angle increase when lowered.>>>Dan
Molaker said:
Yup. :
But seriously, this guy dug a 1.5' deep hole so he can park his tractor under the carport. Because it's a tractor I don't think it is an issue when it fills with water but, hey, it's an idea. Can the door hole be made taller? Lengthen the tracks or modify it somehow to pull the door up more for more clearance??? This seems like it will be more than a 1-time deal to get the RV in/out so maybe a solution that is easy over the long haul is available.
But the drive shaft must be able to handle full droop and full stuff or it could bind and BOOOOOMMM if you were to hit that big dip or bump too hard. Which would of coarse do much more damage before you could haul her down from even 30mph. Every rear engine pusher I have ever seen used a top loader or high pinion and was at or near the neutral range of the drive line. Neutral is about 10% of capacity to bind. This leaves quite a bit of travel for the suspension. What about an air bag or air line that blows while driving? That must be on the engineers worst case list.
Now I am not talking about altering the normal ride height or running at speed but I will rethink buying a pusher if the design is bad enough that the drive line binds within the designed suspension travel. I just can't see a slow move forward on fairly smooth surface even with the drive line and max one way or the other doing any damage. Now if it binds then that will go BOOOOMMM.
I guess the question I will go find the answer to is " Is the drive line at in the bind range at full bump?"
thanks for the info I love this kind of stuff.
Now I am not talking about altering the normal ride height or running at speed but I will rethink buying a pusher if the design is bad enough that the drive line binds within the designed suspension travel. I just can't see a slow move forward on fairly smooth surface even with the drive line and max one way or the other doing any damage. Now if it binds then that will go BOOOOMMM.
I guess the question I will go find the answer to is " Is the drive line at in the bind range at full bump?"
thanks for the info I love this kind of stuff.
Thanks for all the reply's!
Well the driveway and garage floor is concrete so no digging here! I live in central Ohio and just wanted to park it inside my garage for the winter November thru March so maybe I will just let the air out of the tires???
I have not owned it very long but it seems like the front drops alot lower than the rear when I dump the air using the switch up front or after it sits for while?
Thanks!
Obra Horn
Well the driveway and garage floor is concrete so no digging here! I live in central Ohio and just wanted to park it inside my garage for the winter November thru March so maybe I will just let the air out of the tires???
I have not owned it very long but it seems like the front drops alot lower than the rear when I dump the air using the switch up front or after it sits for while?
Thanks!
Obra Horn
