You won't be able to clamp off the cold water inlet as the piping is almost certainly rigid plastic PVC. You would have to disconnect the cold water line and plug it. Hot water outlet too if it doesn't have a check valve. If you don't have a bypass valve, I would add one. Or use compressed air to blow out the lines and just put antifreeze in the traps and toilet.
winterizing
- Thread starter bb21992
- Start date
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gt2003
Well-known member
So far I have only dealt with the outside panel where the drain plug is. I'm guessing the water heater is adjacent to this but on the inside of the trailer.
With it being a 2006 trailer, does it probably have a bypass? I wish I could tell you the manufacturer but I don't have the paperwork with me here at work right now.
With it being a 2006 trailer, does it probably have a bypass? I wish I could tell you the manufacturer but I don't have the paperwork with me here at work right now.
![Bypass Valve [800x600].jpg](/data/attachments/16/16115-e5ab4a001950b3cd16f793fe6190809c.jpg)
gt2003
Well-known member
Thanks! Mine actually had 2 which I thought was rather weird. I crawled all the way in the storage compartment to make sure I wasn't missing one. However, that must have worked because I didn't lose any antifreeze out of the water heater and I got it to flow through all the cold and hot water faucets throughout the trailer. I can't believe I was so worried. It was actually pretty simple!
scottydl
Site Team
Most RV maintenance items ARE pretty simple. 
It's always better to learn how to do it yourself. I'm guessing your 2-valve system probably included a valve for the cold water input (to the HW heater tank), and another for the hot water output. We'd have to see photos to know for sure (not that it really matters). My system has a third one linked in between the other two I mentioned; I shut off the first two and turn on the third to bypass the heating system for winterizing.
It's always better to learn how to do it yourself. I'm guessing your 2-valve system probably included a valve for the cold water input (to the HW heater tank), and another for the hot water output. We'd have to see photos to know for sure (not that it really matters). My system has a third one linked in between the other two I mentioned; I shut off the first two and turn on the third to bypass the heating system for winterizing.The 2 valve bypass uses 2 way valves on the cold water inlet and hot water outlet to route the water to the bypass pipe. The 3 valve bypass uses simple globe valves to shutoff the cold and hot water and open the bypass pipe. The single valve as we have is a 2 way valve to route the cold water from the inlet to the bypass and uses a check valve in the hot water outlet. All of the them work fine, but the more valves, the more opportunity for error The single valve system is the least subject to operator error.
The single valve system is the least subject to operator error.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
And the most subject to mechanical failure, i.e. the hot water check valve.
scottydl
Site Team
^^ Stock up now!
Rancher Will
Well-known member
Just two points to add to above.
I suggest that you read your RV owner's manual concerning proper winterizing.
Also, as to the heat bulbs. Even after the rediculous government mandated fake light bulbs are completly manditory, go into any farm co-op store and get a brooder heat lamp (used for baby chicks) ir a baby pig farrowing heat lamp. Actually anyone can get these heat lamps now or at any time since they will be sold to farmers even after the government prevents city dwellers from buying or using normal light bulbs.
Here on our ranch I purchased a lifetime supply of normal light bulbs when I learned of the new stupid regulations that were pending. I believe you can still find enough to lay in a supply if you wish.
I suggest that you read your RV owner's manual concerning proper winterizing.
Also, as to the heat bulbs. Even after the rediculous government mandated fake light bulbs are completly manditory, go into any farm co-op store and get a brooder heat lamp (used for baby chicks) ir a baby pig farrowing heat lamp. Actually anyone can get these heat lamps now or at any time since they will be sold to farmers even after the government prevents city dwellers from buying or using normal light bulbs.
Here on our ranch I purchased a lifetime supply of normal light bulbs when I learned of the new stupid regulations that were pending. I believe you can still find enough to lay in a supply if you wish.
82 Honey 27
Active member
thanks obama!!!
Molaker
Well-known member
Uh, I think you'll find President Bush signed the ban into law in 2007.82 Honey 27 said:
suezek
Well-known member
Passing along info on what not to do. I have a 2011 Bershire and followed the instuctions supplied by the manufacturer exactly. Bought an air compressor and blew out the water as directed and added the antifreeze to the drains as recommended. No mention in the instruction manual of the outside shower or the ice maker or the washer dryer so guess what? Unfortunately we were stuck in Colorado a few more weeks than expected in 7 degree temperatures and are now back in Arizona repairing the broken pipes. At least most of the plumbing was spared. How in the world do you blow out the water from the lines to the ice maker? The water lines to the washer are behind the washer which is bolted into place. I just didn't want to add antifreeze to the drinking water tanks even if they do get washed out later. Suggestions are welcome. :'(
ruthandken CDN
Well-known member
For the outside shower I just turn on the taps until the pink stuff flows. The washer/dryer, I set it to the start of a cycle with HOT water selected and turn it on for a few seconds, until I can hear the 'water' coming in. Turn it off, check inside and you will be able to smell the pink stuff. Then set it to rinse, COLD water, and turn it on until I hear more 'water' coming in. Let that run for a few seconds, turn off, set to spin and let it spin. This gets the antifreeze into your lines, into your washer's pump and into the drain lines. After that I pour a couple cups into the drum and that's it. For the ice maker, after blowing out the lines with my compressor (make sure you have the ice maker in the ON position in the freezer) I disconnect the water hose that leads up to the ice maker. It will usually drain out by itself, but it is a very simple thing to just give it a good blow manually. I have my husband stand close to the fridge and he can hear the air from me blowing the line out. Then when you turn your water pump on with the antifreeze, I wait until the antifreeze comes out of the detached line that was leading to the ice maker and then turn the valve off. That way I know that even though I blew out my lines there is antifreeze in that line also.
Hope this helps. You'll get alot of useful help and info right here in this forum...
Hope this helps. You'll get alot of useful help and info right here in this forum...
