nvrver
Well-known member
Our Lazy Daze had a wood frame, not steel.
Recommendations for Best Class C
- Thread starter DogzRule
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
ArdraF
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2006
- Posts
- 10,695
Both of ours were too. Nevertheless, they're well constructed. We saw photos of one that had rolled and were surprised at how well it all stayed together.
ArdraF
Bob Maxwell
Moderator Emeritus
The Born Free is all steel behind that fiberglass.
baraff
Member
I think it depends what you plan on doing with your rig. If you're a state and national park person, a smaller class C might be best. If you're an RV park/resort person, maybe a class A would suit you better.
We plan on visiting a lot of the lesser-known state and national parks, quite a few of which can't take a 40' class A coach. That's why we bought a used Winnebago Aspect 26A. It doesn't have a walk-around queen bed, (corner bed) but trade-offs are a fact of life in RVing. The Aspect comes in larger sizes now, I think they make a 29' with a queen walk-around. Anyway, my advice is to consider how you plan on using it.
-Burns
We plan on visiting a lot of the lesser-known state and national parks, quite a few of which can't take a 40' class A coach. That's why we bought a used Winnebago Aspect 26A. It doesn't have a walk-around queen bed, (corner bed) but trade-offs are a fact of life in RVing. The Aspect comes in larger sizes now, I think they make a 29' with a queen walk-around. Anyway, my advice is to consider how you plan on using it.
-Burns
edmond
Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2010
- Posts
- 24
One thing I will add, as stated I am also in the market for a new motorhome. I am only looking at companys that are still in business. I currently have a Fleetwood TT that had the fender skirt come off in high winds. THANKFULLY they had one in stock and I was able to get it. What if the company was no longer around? How would I sell my TT with a missing fender?
Again, this is just my opinion based on a personal experience.
I don't believe Lazy Dazes offers slides>
Again, this is just my opinion based on a personal experience.
I don't believe Lazy Dazes offers slides>
As others have said, it's important what you're going to do and how many you want to sleep. Our 24' Class C could sleep 6, although it was a big cozy for 6 if you were stuck inside. Our 28' Class A sleeps 2 (ok, 2 adults and 2 kids) but it's much more comfortable for 6 people sitting inside. And think seriously about slides, it's surprising how much room a slide adds. Go to RV shows and dealers and try out different models and if you've looked and decided that a Class C is for you, then go for it.
Wendy
Wendy
BernieD
Well-known member
edmond said:
Edmond
As RVs get older and older, the OEM stocks fewer and fewer replacement parts for those models. You eventually get to the same situation as owning an orphan. However, since you are looking for a new MH, it is very unlikely that you will find an new orphan since those that went out of business did so a couple of years ago. I believe that the new owners of the Fleetwood brands have the same access to replacement parts as if the old owners were still running the company. And there are no guarantees that any company in business today will still be in business tomorrow.
The Class A vs. Class C topic is an interesting one that I went back and forth on for a while. I am married with three young kids (ages 5, 2, & 1) and will use the RV for day trips to the beach with the family, long weekends and a couple 1-2 week vacations during the year. After researching the many subjective pros/cons of each I decided that a Class C would be the best fit for our intended RV lifestyle and give us more bang for our buck. We needed plenty of sleeping room so the Class C won in that category. With the kids so small we can literally stick them all on the top bunk, heads pointing forward, and keep the dining table and couch as they are without having to break down/setup everyone morning. I also liked the slightly better gas mileage and the fact that they are cheaper to repair. I've heard contrary statements about the cost of repairing A vs. C. But based on everything I read it is my belief the gas Class A is more expensive to repair than the gas class C (breaks and tires just to mention a couple parts). I really like the look of the Class A's and the space they provide and know they would be a whole lot more fun to drive. But based on my annual maintenance budget, our usage level and sleeping requirements I felt the Class C would be the more practical choice at this point. However, if we take to the RV lifestyle I can certainly see us moving to the Class A at some point. The Class A is what I have always pictured myself driving... ;D
Geoff_T
Well-known member
bermuda95 said:
Hi
I agree with this poster. The point that should be emphasised in the C versus A discussions is the use to which the RV would be put. If you were a retired couple looking for a home from home, a Class A would be an obvious choice.... but what if you were a large family with grandkids and all that entails?
Our Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher 29' sleeps eight and we have had eight and a large dog sleep in comfort in it. No slides but we never found we needed them. We often take the RV to one of the many CA state beaches and arrange for the family to meet us there. The accomodation, heating, toilet and outside shower work great in these circumstances. With Bar-BQ, table and chairs in the lockers we can have a great family outing at the beach.
My wife and I recently attended a trade show in San Francisco and used the RV in preference to a hotel. With just the two of us there was lots of room and it was very much a home from home.
The Class C format is great for families and I doubt I will move up to a Class A anytime soon.
Geoff and Sally
Attachments
Bob Maxwell
Moderator Emeritus
Where did you park it in SF? I parked my C across the bridge in a hidden spot just off 1 in Tiburon. It;s probably still there. . .but that was years ago. I had a wife, three kids a dog and a cat.
PancakeBill
Well-known member
The spot to hide or the class C itself?
Bob Maxwell
Moderator Emeritus
the spot. . .the C left in 1982.
Geoff_T
Well-known member
Bob Maxwell said:
Hi
We parked at the RV park across from the 49'ers Candlestick Stadium. It was just the two of us so we resorted to taxis to the centre of SF where we exhibiting my products at the Moscone Centre.
The site had a "minibus" service that would cost less than a taxi but did not fit into our schedule.
Geoff
4ducksrus
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2010
- Posts
- 814
We are currently in the market for an A, have owned a C for two years. We bought the Road Warrior Super C just prior to them going out of business, but thankfully we purchased the extended warranty! We are now trying to sell the Class C and want to move up to a Class A. I agree with the sleeping arrangements, but I find that my C is really easy to drive. It's 34' long and has a diesel engine, but it drives like a big truck. I think the responder that said to ask yourself the "who, what, and whys" before you buy is really smart. I wish now that we had really looked a little harder before we jumped into our Class C.
ron.dittmer
Active member
Dogzrule,
If you are accomodating kids, a C is very hard to beat for that big extra bed over the driver. But for the sake of this discussion, I will assume you are accomdating two adults and a dog or two.
As others have mentioned, the A's handle better when driven off the dealership lot, but our C (actually a B+) with a little extra investment, now handles like an SUV. If you buy a C/B+ and don't like the way it handles, all is not hopeless. Our B+ handled poorly when new, but today handles like a dream. My wife has absolutely no issues driving it with our Jeep Liberty in-tow. I often drive with a cup of coffee in one hand and the other hand relaxed with the steering wheel. Let me know if you'd like the details on my suspension/handling upgrading.
In the places we vacation in (NPs, NMs, NFs, SPs, BLMs) the bigger class As and Cs won't be found because they are simply too large for the provided campsites. Some park campgrounds will force you out without even giving it a try. It is very common to see the big rigs congregated in private campgrounds in neighboring towns. If you are fine staying in towns and then commuting daily with a tow vehicle to such public parks, then a bigger rig may be worth consideration for bigger creature comforts. But if you want to stay in such public parks, thinking smaller is thinking smarter.
As many here will likely agree, there is something very attractive staying in RV parks. It is a social soup pot, especially for the retired. If you are one who likes to keep to himself, see the sights, and have only a few weeks at a time to worth with, then you wouldn't take advantage of the social aspect of RVing that way. Then don't get something so large to force you into such accomodations. Think smaller, stay in the parks, see the sights quicker utilizing your limited vacation time as best as possible.
That describes my wife and myself. I hope to retire one day, but that is so very far away. Until then, we'll be racing down the highway in our little motor home, trying to make the best of the few weeks we have to work with.
About what motor home to consider, brand/quality/etc. I put together my recommendation a while ago and copy/paste it when these discussions come up. Enjoy.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Rain, ice, and snow-melt is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets in, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Mold can also form and then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a Reliably Well Sealed motor home.
#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work.
The brand Coach House RV is a fine example. Google them and see what I mean. It is made from a seamless mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, door, roof-top vents and a/c unit, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are limited in size.
#2 SECOND BEST (common, affordable, and comes in many sizes, so this is my main focus)
I own an example of this kind. SEE IT HERE
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water.
Here are the good things you want to look for.
a) All Structural Seams Located Away From Corners
Seam work in the corners and edges is bad. Seam work away from them is good. When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans, many thousands of times. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.
b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van?s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work. There are a few conventional ?C? Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then be sure to get a seamless design. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, that extra bed would be extremely important.
c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after the caulk has dried out from age & sun, as well as fatigue from the change in seasons.
d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down the wall a few inches. The fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.
e) A 5 Sided Rear Wall
This 5 sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress.
Potentially Troublesome Construction Try to avoid this if possible.
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. If considering this type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.
There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best
About the chassis. The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is bringing up the rear, becoming popular in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis has been discontinued as of recently. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or trailer, then I advise to avoid the Sprinter because it lacks the power of the others. But there are a few people who tow cars with a Sprinter. They just take it easier to make it work for them.
Just about every motor home manufacture offers one or more slide outs. LazyDaze is only one I know who does not. I own a Phoenix Cruiser which is offered with and without slide outs, per individual request. Ours, the #2 Second Best example given, does not have a slide out by our request. We special ordered it that way. It's not a popular decision, but we are extremely pleased with our choice. If done over again, we?d get the same motor home, brand & model, but with a few extra options added.
If considering a recent ?small? class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.
Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Provides a 1/3 improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven the same.
- More comfortable driver compartment with more leg room.
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.
- Has a better resale value.
Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $14,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. A diesel generator costs thousands more and is much heavier. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- Per the owners manual, the V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c.
The Ford V10 idles quiet and will pump out very cold dash a/c far into a smaller cabin very effectively. It can safely idle for hours on end. Idling the Ford V10 will consume as much fuel as the generator, so you have an economical a/c backup plan for a/c and battery charging. This is valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.
You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer.
There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years.
If you are accomodating kids, a C is very hard to beat for that big extra bed over the driver. But for the sake of this discussion, I will assume you are accomdating two adults and a dog or two.
As others have mentioned, the A's handle better when driven off the dealership lot, but our C (actually a B+) with a little extra investment, now handles like an SUV. If you buy a C/B+ and don't like the way it handles, all is not hopeless. Our B+ handled poorly when new, but today handles like a dream. My wife has absolutely no issues driving it with our Jeep Liberty in-tow. I often drive with a cup of coffee in one hand and the other hand relaxed with the steering wheel. Let me know if you'd like the details on my suspension/handling upgrading.
In the places we vacation in (NPs, NMs, NFs, SPs, BLMs) the bigger class As and Cs won't be found because they are simply too large for the provided campsites. Some park campgrounds will force you out without even giving it a try. It is very common to see the big rigs congregated in private campgrounds in neighboring towns. If you are fine staying in towns and then commuting daily with a tow vehicle to such public parks, then a bigger rig may be worth consideration for bigger creature comforts. But if you want to stay in such public parks, thinking smaller is thinking smarter.
As many here will likely agree, there is something very attractive staying in RV parks. It is a social soup pot, especially for the retired. If you are one who likes to keep to himself, see the sights, and have only a few weeks at a time to worth with, then you wouldn't take advantage of the social aspect of RVing that way. Then don't get something so large to force you into such accomodations. Think smaller, stay in the parks, see the sights quicker utilizing your limited vacation time as best as possible.
That describes my wife and myself. I hope to retire one day, but that is so very far away. Until then, we'll be racing down the highway in our little motor home, trying to make the best of the few weeks we have to work with.
About what motor home to consider, brand/quality/etc. I put together my recommendation a while ago and copy/paste it when these discussions come up. Enjoy.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Rain, ice, and snow-melt is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets in, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Mold can also form and then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a Reliably Well Sealed motor home.
#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work.
The brand Coach House RV is a fine example. Google them and see what I mean. It is made from a seamless mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, door, roof-top vents and a/c unit, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are limited in size.
#2 SECOND BEST (common, affordable, and comes in many sizes, so this is my main focus)
I own an example of this kind. SEE IT HERE
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water.
Here are the good things you want to look for.
a) All Structural Seams Located Away From Corners
Seam work in the corners and edges is bad. Seam work away from them is good. When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans, many thousands of times. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.
b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van?s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work. There are a few conventional ?C? Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then be sure to get a seamless design. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, that extra bed would be extremely important.
c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after the caulk has dried out from age & sun, as well as fatigue from the change in seasons.
d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down the wall a few inches. The fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.
e) A 5 Sided Rear Wall
This 5 sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress.
Potentially Troublesome Construction Try to avoid this if possible.
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. If considering this type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.
There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best
About the chassis. The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is bringing up the rear, becoming popular in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis has been discontinued as of recently. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or trailer, then I advise to avoid the Sprinter because it lacks the power of the others. But there are a few people who tow cars with a Sprinter. They just take it easier to make it work for them.
Just about every motor home manufacture offers one or more slide outs. LazyDaze is only one I know who does not. I own a Phoenix Cruiser which is offered with and without slide outs, per individual request. Ours, the #2 Second Best example given, does not have a slide out by our request. We special ordered it that way. It's not a popular decision, but we are extremely pleased with our choice. If done over again, we?d get the same motor home, brand & model, but with a few extra options added.
If considering a recent ?small? class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.
Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Provides a 1/3 improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven the same.
- More comfortable driver compartment with more leg room.
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.
- Has a better resale value.
Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $14,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. A diesel generator costs thousands more and is much heavier. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- Per the owners manual, the V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c.
The Ford V10 idles quiet and will pump out very cold dash a/c far into a smaller cabin very effectively. It can safely idle for hours on end. Idling the Ford V10 will consume as much fuel as the generator, so you have an economical a/c backup plan for a/c and battery charging. This is valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.
You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer.
There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years.
wannabfree
Well-known member
Ron
I just want to thank you for this excellent and mostly objective post. It's just too bad that you were not a little better informed about the Sprinter before you bought your Ford. This is not a put-down of Fords as you did not desparrage Sprinters. I only take exception to your statement about the lack of idling capabilities of the Sprinter. Much of the reason for our decision to buy our Sprinter was the ability to use it as a diesel generator for our small automotive assembly plant. One of the options on our 2005 2.7 deisel was a switch on the dash that raised the idle to 2000 RPM and enabled the engine to run for an estimated 60 hours on a tank of fuel with no detrimental effects. We installed a 5000 watt inverter and have succsesfully run our small automotive assembly plant (lights,computers. phones and stuff) thru many power outages.
I certainly would not even try to compare it to a V10 under any power discussion and I again thank you for an excellent comparison of b/c class units.
Dave
I just want to thank you for this excellent and mostly objective post. It's just too bad that you were not a little better informed about the Sprinter before you bought your Ford. This is not a put-down of Fords as you did not desparrage Sprinters. I only take exception to your statement about the lack of idling capabilities of the Sprinter. Much of the reason for our decision to buy our Sprinter was the ability to use it as a diesel generator for our small automotive assembly plant. One of the options on our 2005 2.7 deisel was a switch on the dash that raised the idle to 2000 RPM and enabled the engine to run for an estimated 60 hours on a tank of fuel with no detrimental effects. We installed a 5000 watt inverter and have succsesfully run our small automotive assembly plant (lights,computers. phones and stuff) thru many power outages.
I certainly would not even try to compare it to a V10 under any power discussion and I again thank you for an excellent comparison of b/c class units.
Dave
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Thanks for the excellent report, Ron.
I'll take a small exception to the implication that a Class A won't fit in some parks. Size is not really an A vs C issue - there are C's as long as 35-40 ft and A's as short as 26-28 ft. And nearly every park, even the most primitive, can accommodate a 30 footer.
I'll take a small exception to the implication that a Class A won't fit in some parks. Size is not really an A vs C issue - there are C's as long as 35-40 ft and A's as short as 26-28 ft. And nearly every park, even the most primitive, can accommodate a 30 footer.
PancakeBill
Well-known member
NP's, as an example, Grand Canyon and Yellowstone. I am in GC now and they have 2 CG's. Mather which is a tent and < 30' size, no hookups. Very limited Gen hours. Then Trailer Village, no real size limit, pull thru sites, full hookups. Right next to one another.
Yellowstone, 2 seasons there to date. A number of CG's. Only one with hookups, and last year the electric was off due to modernization. All other CG's dry camp only. Most will take units up to about 40' but more smaller sites than larger sites. Only a few of the CG's have stated size limits, and these are SMALL!
What this boils down to, if you are small and don't mind dry camping, your choices are pretty large, the bigger you go the more limits you find, but just because you get a large unit, does not mean you cannot get in. Get the size that fits you best, then go have fun.
Yellowstone, 2 seasons there to date. A number of CG's. Only one with hookups, and last year the electric was off due to modernization. All other CG's dry camp only. Most will take units up to about 40' but more smaller sites than larger sites. Only a few of the CG's have stated size limits, and these are SMALL!
What this boils down to, if you are small and don't mind dry camping, your choices are pretty large, the bigger you go the more limits you find, but just because you get a large unit, does not mean you cannot get in. Get the size that fits you best, then go have fun.
