I have a dometic over/under. I got back to my tt after thanksgiving and everything in the freezer and fridge is thawed out. the check light is not on with the fridge on electricity. The check light does come on if I try to switch to gas. The light in the fridge works and I have checked all the fuses/breakers with no luck. Any idea what could be causing this?
fridge problem
- Thread starter Wrdabney
- Start date
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Weewun
Guest
You might check the High Temperature Thermal Switch, if it is like mine it will not reset once opened. You can remove one lead and check the continuity. It should be 0 ohms.
If the Thermal switch has a reset button depress it. If it doesn't you will have to replace it.
I replaced mine with a "resettable" Thermal Switch.
If the Thermal switch has a reset button depress it. If it doesn't you will have to replace it.
I replaced mine with a "resettable" Thermal Switch.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
You can find a service manual for your Dometic at this site, but you need to know the model. There is also a general service manual that covers many models, but the help is more generic than the model-specific manuals.
http://bryantrv.com/docs.html
As I understand it, the fridge is not working on either 120vac or LP, but you get a check light only in LP mode. There are usually a couple fuses on the fridge circuit board - are those the ones you checked already?
http://bryantrv.com/docs.html
As I understand it, the fridge is not working on either 120vac or LP, but you get a check light only in LP mode. There are usually a couple fuses on the fridge circuit board - are those the ones you checked already?
Also, if it makes any difference I can smell and hear lp going through the tube when I turn it to run on gas but it won't ignite. I might think it was the reignited or something but I've recently replaced it and the fridge won't work on electricity either. I hope somebody can tell me how to fix this thing. I don't have the money to pay somebody to fix it right now and I'm living in my tt while out of town working.
So I called the rv dealer which is literally next door. They are sending someone over to look at it Thursday if I can't fix it before then. They charge $110 just do come look at the thing. I have the electrical and mechanical ability to fix the thing I just can't figure out what's wrong with it. I would much rather spend the 110 paying for parts than just paying someone to diagnose the problem. Any more suggestions?
Water Dog
Well-known member
Have you tried cleaning the 12volt connections?
Larry202br
Member
What is the manufacturer and model number of your fridge? We may need the serial number as well.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Did the electric & LP modes stop working at the same time? I'm trying to figure out if there are two separate problems or one? The fact that neither works makes me think the controller board has gone bad, but it is obviously working enough to open the gas valve in LP mode.
I think I would go back to electric mode and trouble shoot the heater elements first. If you can use a volt-ohm meter, you can figure out if the heaters are working or not pretty easily.
I think I would go back to electric mode and trouble shoot the heater elements first. If you can use a volt-ohm meter, you can figure out if the heaters are working or not pretty easily.
Gary,
It seems my power went out sometime over thanksgiving because the microwave clock was reset. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. When I got back from thanksgiving it wouldn't work in either mode. I can use a volt meter but I don't really know the process of checking the Heater element.
It seems my power went out sometime over thanksgiving because the microwave clock was reset. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. When I got back from thanksgiving it wouldn't work in either mode. I can use a volt meter but I don't really know the process of checking the Heater element.
Water Dog
Well-known member
I would make sure you have a full 12 volts DC at the refer. Maybe there was a power surge and converter isn't putting out full voltage. Light could possibly still work, but be a little dimmer.
Water Dog
Well-known member
Here's a service manual with electrical checks http://gasrefrigeration.net/dom_techdata/26121_2852SM.PDF
i did the dc voltage requirements test as specified in the manual with my volt meter set on ACV 200. I got a reading of about 24. The manual says 6 volts or less is acceptable. Either I'm testing it wrong or something else is wrong. What do you guys think? If this is confusing, when i tested the positive wire coming in to the 12v terminal block the the ground lead on a ground wire i got about 12 volts. when I tested the 12v block in the manner that the manual shows i got about 24v.
Water Dog
Well-known member
That test is for AC ripple and should be less than 6 volts. If you are getting 24, I would disconect your shore power, so that you are drawing just off battery power then see if the frig will fire on gas.
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