Alaska Advice Please

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devarona

Active member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Posts
41
Location
Miami, Fla
I have read several postings from trips to Alaska. I still have questions.

Should I put protective film on the RV and Jeep? Are the roads really that bad? I have a skirt on the back of the RV. Is that not enough?

Do I need a radiator protector that the caravans use?

I intend on spending the summer in BC & Alaska. From May 1 to September ? When should I be concerned about the snow/ice? I don't know how to drive in snow/ice (Floridian :-\).

Do I need advanced reservations for Denali, Wrangell-St Elias, Kachenmak State Park, etc...  (Like the Grand Canyon)

I see glaciers near Stewart and Petersburg. Are those any better to see than the ones South of Fairbanks and in the Anchorage/Seward area?

Does anyone know how to find the cheapest tours, flight planes, and fishing boats?

I have a 12 ft porta bote w/ a 6hp motor (folding boat). Is it dangerous to put it in the bays around Alaska, or should I stick to the rivers and lakes? Any river dangerous? I would love to fish for halibut or any other sal****er species I can reach in my little boat.

Any advice on lures, bait, tackle, and type of rods?

Any other pertinent advice is greatly appreciated. I will soon have the Milepost, and I am a GoodSam and Passport America member.

Thanks,

Elena
 
Should I put protective film on the RV and Jeep? Are the roads really that bad? I have a skirt on the back of the RV. Is that not enough?

You need to have something, whether film or something else entirely different.  Summer is when Alaska does its road repairs and they have to tear up the entire roadbed to get rid of frost heaves.  When you encounter a big construction area you might drive for several miles on a rocky surface.  Rocks get kicked up from passing vehicles going the other way, as well as vehicles in front of you.  We have a shield on the front of the toad but unfortunately it's no longer available.  At minimum, put some film on your headlights because they're expensive to replace.  As to the skirt, I think it helps, but there's a lot of debate about their usefulness.  But, no, it would only prevent your own motorhome from kicking rocks back onto the Jeep.  It's other cars and trucks that are the problem when passing or going too fast for conditions.

By the way, one thing you learn quickly in Alaska is to keep your speed down.  It prevents flying rock chips, but the frost heaves can be problematic if you whoop-de-doo too hard on them.

Don't know that any glaciers are better than the any others.  I think they're all great!  In B.C. the Icefields Parkway is really neat.  If you can take a sightseeing flight out over a glacier field, it's really neat too.

You shouldn't encounter snow and ice unless there's an early winter and you stay too late!  Like anywhere, keep your eye on the weather and act accordingly.  If it starts to get cold, the snow birds will be heading south and you should too.  ;)

ArdraF
 
I pretty much agree with Ardra. You will encounter torn up sections of roads and there are some roads that are merely packed & oiled gravel year around. Dust, mud and gravel sprays are the norm in many places, while others will be typical macadam roads and no problem at all. The best antidote is to keep your speed down, often around 40 mph.

You will see snow, but [probably] not drive in it, if you travel between June 1 and Sept 15.

Stick to the rivers and lakes with the Port-a-bote. A couple of the smaller bays are probably ok on a nice day, but don't head outside at all. The lakes and rivers are gorgeous and the fishing incredible by the standards of the lower 48, so you don't need to go offshore. The fish are big - pack your heavier gear. Spoons and feather jigs are commonly used and readily available everywhere you go. You will find various salmon, rainbow trout, northern pike, Dolly Varden trout, and more.

See the Forum Library section on Trip Reports for tales of other's Alaska trips.
 
Stewart, BC is at the head of a 100 mile long fjord that is only a mile across.    So generally I would think, unless the wind is coming up the fjord the waves shouldn't be too bad.  So if there was any place that ocean fishing would be safest I suspect that would be one of them.

Note that I know nothing about boats so if someone wishes to disagree with me that's just fine.    :)
 
This August we did Calgary to Whitehorse via the Yellow Head highway and the Alaska Marine highway ferry system in a rental RV.  We are not RV people and come from the UK so perhaps it is a bit cheeky for us to offer any suggestions but here we go.

We never needed to book anything in advance.  The Campsites / RV parks were no where near full and one of the ferries we went on was all but empty.

We were pretty sure that we were the only visiting RV on the island when we turned up in Petersburg and to be honest it seemed like we might have been the only one this year

We took a whale watching tour from Petersburg and were also going to take a light float plane to go over the Glaciers but it was cancelled due to fog.  So when we turned up in Haines we found a chap who did Glacier flights at an hours notice which I would highly recommend.    Let me know if you want me to turn up his name for you.

Going through BC there are just loads of lakes and lots of boat launching ramps but could see hardly any boats out there.    We wish we had a couple of canoes but I think the RV rental company would have been a little stressed if we put them on the roof.  I reckon you could have a great time with your collapsible boat.  We did manage to hire canoes on a couple of occasions but they were in the more touristy locations.  If it were me I would leave your jeep behind and tow a boat instead.

Jon
 
Jon, thanks for reminding me about campground reservations.

We've never traveled in Alaska with a set schedule and reservations.  With the down economy, a lot of people just aren't driving the miles so you shouldn't have any problem finding places to stay.  We've also changed ferry reservations without any problem.  We did make them for the ferry because we wanted specific dates and wanted to guarantee them.

I have to say that I disagree with Jon about the toad.  The first trip we had none and the second trip we did.  We saw a lot more the second time because we could go places too big for an RV.  Of course if it's a boat vs. toad decision, I'll forego a suggestion - you're on your own there!  ::)

ArdraF
 
We were in Denali over July 4 weekend.  We had reservations which  I do recommned.  However the  place is owned by a foreign entity and there were no fireworks nor  red white and blue anything.  Bring your own celebrations.
Betty

Get the Tour Saver book.  Google it. It will save you LOTS of money on sights!


Betty
 
We spent the 4th of July weekend in Hyder (AK) +Stewart (BC) back in 2002 and joined in a joint celebration of Canada Day (July 1) & Independence Day. Both US and Canadian flags flying and citizens of both towns/countries amiably celebrating together in a big affair at the Stewart town park. What a great day! No fireworks, though. It seems they got a bit out of hand a few years previous and burned down the Hyder Community Center!
 
devarona,
  I live in AK and have made the drive three times (99, 02, and 07).  Each time I was in a pick-up pulling a 21? car hauler loaded with about 10K.  That is my ?credentials?, so for what it?s worth, here is my .02?
- I would do all you can to protect your main and towed vehicle.  Roads have improved 400+ times since 99, but as already stated, construction means gravel and lots of it.  Pretty much all the roads are 2 lane, not 4 lane, so you drive thru the construction, not detoured around it.  Sometimes it?s 10, 20, even 30 mile stretches of unpaved or even worse yet, freshly  tarred and chipped roads!  Basically budget for a new windshield in both vehicles at the end of the trip.  Plan for the worst and hope for the best.;)
- May 1 to Sep?  Depending on where and the altitude you could hit snow thru mid, maybe late May.  But it?s not like it will last long. It will warm up and be nice and sloppy within days?.lol  Sep should be no issue.
- Advanced reservations are recommended in high demand /popular fishing areas during the fishing seasons.  I can?t comment a lot on the ?interior? parks, but will say with fuel prices and the economy we?ve had a lot less RV tourists to cuss at on the roads in recent years?.lol
- Glaciers would be an ?opinion? I think.  Driving down from Tok to Anchorage you will pass the Matanuska Glacier.  It?s neat because you can pretty easily walk right up to that one.  South of Anchorage, you get into Portage, Whitter ,and Seward and you can take boat or plane rides to see the Glaciers.  In between Matunaska and Anchorage there is the Knik Glacier.  Only get to it via ATV or extreme 4x4.  This is my favorite?just because.  Drive into homer and you?ll see bunches of them across the bay.
- Tours I can?t help much with either.  I recommend getting literature and reading the Milepost which you mentioned.  I have a favorite charter in Homer?Tall Tale Charters.  He is a ?get the fish charter? and not one that ?goes for the big one?.  Tell him Brian sent you, I put A LOT of folks on his boat every year.  If the monster Fish is what you want, go with Bob?s Trophy Charters.  Again that is Homer.  Other places I have no opinion?
- The boat?BE CAREFUL  I strongly recommend it enters no rivers, they are unforgiving.  Bays is tough.  I fished cook inlet years ago out of a 16? Zodiac and think that is about as small as you want to get.  I have seen smaller (much smaller) inflatable?s, but think they are playing Russian roulette.  Lakes definitely have at it..Not a big help of which to fish, I pretty much river Salmon and ocean Halibut fish.
- Medium to heavy rods.  Tackle depends on species.
- Ensure your towed vehicle has a full size spare, donuts are worthless. When you stop at ? or ? a tank of fuel?Top off.  Though gas cans aren?t really a necessity as much anymore, there still is quite a few miles between stations in some places.  If one runs out of fuel or is closed that you are banking on, you could be in trouble.
Hope I helped some.  Enjoy, I recently retired from the military and I ain?t leaving! ;D ;D
Also see my post @ http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=37173.0
 
I dont know what I would do without this forum. You guys are the best.

Thanks for all the advice.

Elena
 
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