Radiator Failure

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Jim Godward

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2005
Posts
5,906
Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
The radiator on our 2001 DSDP failed on our way home from Thanksgiving due to corrosion of the aluminum.  It has survived 10 years minus a few days and was working up till the time the low water indication showed up on the dash panel. 

We were towed about 40 miles by Coachnet, excellent service from the tow company out of Ellensburg WA.  The shop was the Cat Dealer in Yakima WA, NC Machinery.  They did a great job of getting us out in just 3 days with a new core, copper and brass like in the old days.  I will be posting a review later in the service group.

I said the failure was caused by corrosion as most of the wavy fins were gone in the area of failure and also several other areas.  I believe it was caused by the road treatments used in removing ice and snow from the roads.  If I am right then the radiator should be cleaned as soon as possible after driving on such roads in addition to the annual cleaning.  To do it right will require removing or at least placing the CAC and any other condenser out of the way, no small job in and of itself.

This also means that if you have driven in rain on roads that are treated in the winter, a rinse should be done then as the salts are there all year long.  I?m not sure that this would require the same level of disassembly though.

The alternative is to be prepared for a radiator replacement in the time range of 8 to 12 or so years, non-scientific wild guess.

In this case it was about $3500 for the replacement, labor, fluids, etc. plus about $700 for the tow.  The warranty, service contract, paid almost $3,000 and I paid about $500.  The service contract will also pick up about $375 in hotel and meals.  Coachnet picked up the tow.

Just my experience and thoughts on this.
 
My Goodness is it me or does 8-12 years seem premature for an expensive part like a diesel  pusher radiator to expire. I would expect more. Perhaps in the warmer states like Florida and Arizona and Texas, that is the expected life.


Bill
 
    Jim, I posted my new radiator and CAC in June.  Another 10 year milestone, and poof.  No tow, but the rad, CAC & labour came to around $4,000 Canadian, and no extended service contract.  I'd say, it likely was driving on salt covered roads that did me in too.

Ed
 
I replaced the copper & brass radiator in our RV.  The Spartan Chassis has the side radiator and it was about 8 years old.  I found that the fins had corroded away in an area about 6" diameter in the forward lower corner.  All 3 rows of tubes were free to wiggle.  I was surprised I did not see a leak, although the coolant reservior was going down.

I feel that our contributing factors were a lower radiator shield that had detached in the middle thus acting as a scoop to collect all road dirt directly from the rear tires towards the radiator side.  Add to that the gasket between the fan shroud and radiator failed.  Those two failures provided a direct route for dirt to settle in next to the fins and allow excellerated corrosion to take place.  I pulled at bunch of dirt & leaves out of that area.

Time & Costs- It took me 6 hours to get the old radiator out & another 6 hours to get the new radiator back in.  The old one could not be recored due to the plastic end tanks.  The new one can be recored.  The radiator was $700, the coolant & supplies $200.  After I got off the floor, I realized that from a size/weight stand point, the cost is proportional to car radiators.  The radiator was 50# and when in its mounting frame, over 100#.  The seals & shields where reinstalled and reinforced.

All of the radiator work was done after finding the corrosion damage while replacing the entire exhaust that had rusted holes.  The exhaust was another big ticket set of parts.

 
From what I read, the failing radiators were 100% aluminum, a weight (and maybe cost?) saving idea that turned out to have a relatively short life span. External road salts and stone dings take their toll readily.
 
I have had my radiator replaced twice from aluminum rot. Once at 78600 miles and again at 108126 miles. Now have 139599. Had it in for coolant change yesterday and they (Cummins) noticed the fins were "crispy". They think it is leaves and debris that collects between the charge cooler and the radiator.

I was shown how to remove a cover at the bottom to gain access for air or water flushing the core. I did not know copper/brass was still used in radiators.
 
My research found many radiators of the copper & brass (C&B) and ALUM failing.  The failure type seems dependent on the location in the RV.  Many that have ALUM are replacing it with C&B so that it can be recored.  Recoring is about 1/2 the cost of new.  I also found that keeping the PH within range is critical to ALUM radiators.  Use your coolant test strips for the car & RV.  The ALUM is subject to attach when the PH is out of spec.

Our radiator was a common VOLVO truck radiator & stocked at the truck parts store. 
 
Jim Godward said:
The radiator on our 2001 DSDP failed on our way home from Thanksgiving due to corrosion of the aluminum.  It has survived 10 years minus a few days and was working up till the time the low water indication showed up on the dash panel. 

We were towed about 40 miles by Coachnet, excellent service from the tow company out of Ellensburg WA.  ........
........In this case it was about $3500 for the replacement, labor, fluids, etc. plus about $700 for the tow.  The warranty, service contract, paid almost $3,000 and I paid about $500.  The service contract will also pick up about $375 in hotel and meals.  Coachnet picked up the tow.

Jim,

Did Coachnet provide the tow or did you pay for it out of pocket and then later were reimbursed?

A lot of aluminum radiators seem to fail after about 12- 15 years.  I've replaced one in a truck and one in a van.  Being cheap I looked at junk yards for used radiators.  Those around the correct age were all crap.  I looked at older models that could be made to fit and found most of these radiators were "new".  I just pulled a radiator someone else had already replaced.

I don't imagine there are too many yards around with dozens of "DSDP"s sitting around but for Class C's or other vehicles it's something to keep in mind.

fleamarketeer
 
I have been towed with Coachnet twice. Zero out of pocket expense. Both times the service was flawless. Highly recommended. As for the radiator, the test strips are about $10 a bottle. Pretty cheap insurance.
 
Sarge,

Yes they are but it looked like the corrosion was mostly if not all from the outside.  Wash frequently especially if it is an Aluminum radiator and you drive in the winter.
 
Don't you think the acid from insects have something to do with this?
 
parmm said:
Don't you think the acid from insects have something to do with this?

If it was a radiator in the front of the vehicle, I might agree, however this radiator is in the side rear on the driver's side.  It does pull air into the engine compartment but all we saw was dirt/dust on the radiator, AC evaporator and CAC.  It was still damp in the fins when we first looked, it had just come into the shop and the ice on it was melting.  The tow was through some slushy roads and the the MH was parked over night in freezing temperatures before we brought it into the shop.
 
As for the radiator, the test strips are about $10 a bottle. Pretty cheap insurance.

I bought a bottle of test strips for my International truck a few years ago.  I only used a few of them the first year after I bought them, and it wasn't long before they were outdated.  They have, as I remember, a very short shelf life (like maybe a year?)
 
rsalhus said:
I bought a bottle of test strips for my International truck a few years ago.  I only used a few of them the first year after I bought them, and it wasn't long before they were outdated.  They have, as I remember, a very short shelf life (like maybe a year?)

I find it easier to get a few from my Freightliner dealer when it is time to check.  Don't have to worry about shelf life that way.  I just changed to CAT ELC so am good for at least 3 years now!!  I would have used "Final Charge" but was at CAT dealer so ...!
 
2001 holiday Ramler slight leak at times depends on the road conditions seems like uneven eg, some gas stations  looking to replace 2001 cummings 5.9L holiday rambler Embassador can anyone advise me please
 
wade17 said:
2001 holiday Ramler slight leak at times depends on the road conditions seems like uneven eg, some gas stations  looking to replace 2001 cummings 5.9L holiday rambler Embassador can anyone advise me please
You need to start a new thread and state your problem clearer. And use punctuation so your post is readable please.
 
[quote author=Gary RV_Wizard]Probably best to make replies there as well.[/quote]

Not a good idea; We normally discourage duplicate posting, so I've locked the other (duplicate) topic.
 
Back
Top Bottom