basement heater making a strange noise

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phelpo said:
Ok guys, since I think it is either a bearing or cage, where am I going to buy these?


Thanks,

Phelpo
Click to expand...

Phelpo,

If you are leaning to do the repair yourself, I suggest looking for a local tool rental shop or auto tool loan shop for the motorcycle lift shown in John's pics. I'd get the lift with the highest reach so it can get directly/flush under the center balance point of the basement AC unit.

If you can take photos too for post here, we all learn more and tweak points for Duner's Book.

Charlie
 
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200446267_200446267?cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top%20Sellers-_-Product%20Page

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200446269_200446269?cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top%20Sellers-_-Product%20Page

Buy a standard inexpensive flat ( 3'x3') funiture moving dolly with four wheels to set the lift on so you can lift the basement unit and then slid it out to work on it. ;D

Charlie
 
Phelpo,

Another recommendation.. use your digital camera and take close up photos of any wire bundles/connections you might have to disconnect. This might be required as you slide the unit out. Some of the small electrical wires running into the front side power panel to the unit might not have enough slack to allow the unit to be pulled out far enough for you to access all the top sheet metal screws holding the one piece top panel on the unit. Duner's Manual shows these top screws very clearly.

Also, you'll find sheeting of cheap 1 inch foam as insulation loose on top of the unit between the unit and the coach compartment. Plan on replacing this junky foam with a better insulation material...the insulation is also a sound dampner. I use these products a lot at different noise source transmittal points under my coach. A layer on top lid of unit when you close it up..and added patches of it on side panels, can help reduce some A/C unit noise in the coach.

http://www.b-quiet.com/compare.html

Charlie
 
John, are u sure abouth the weight????  did you pick it up?

Charlie good ideas now make it warmer if Middle  Florida.....please

Phelpo
 
phelpo said:
John, are u sure abouth the weight????  did you pick it up?
Click to expand...

Weight is from RVP's data sheet - sorry  ;D

Charlie's recommendation about taking pictures is a recipe to help you be successful!  I always take a bunch of pictures when I'm working on something where I need to disconnect wires, or as a mechanical schematic to help put stuff back together.
 
phelpo said:
Bill.thanks for the heads up on pricing and model numbers.

I'll check into a lift.

Phelpo
Click to expand...

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=39466.0

Charlie
 
Charlie,  did what you said except I have a nut on the shaft.  Took my hands and pushed/ pulled the bird cage, it moved but so did the shaft, I could see the shaft going back and worth.
Then I turned the elect heat on and got under the bird cage and could see it moving
back and worth under power.  Conclusion is the bearing needs to be replaced.  Boy does
cage throw out the air.

Anyway onwards with pulling the unit out, have to wait for the rain to stop.

Phelpo
 
phelpo said:
Charlie,  did what you said except I have a nut on the shaft.  Took my hands and pushed/ pulled the bird cage, it moved but so did the shaft, I could see the shaft going back and worth.
Then I turned the elect heat on and got under the bird cage and could see it moving
back and worth under power.  Conclusion is the bearing needs to be replaced.  Boy does
cage throw out the air.

Anyway onwards with pulling the unit out, have to wait for the rain to stop.

Phelpo
Click to expand...

Phelpo,

Is it a metal cage? I have the plastic cage and it has the allen screw that keeps the cage mount bushing on the motor shaft.

The bearing to be replaced is on the end of the shaft opposite the motor.

Cage back and forth ? Like a severe wobble? Or slip and slide laterally?

Charlie
 
yes on metal, you know I don't know where the motor is, but the bearing on the right side
appears to be moving.

the edge of the metal cage wobbles left and right as it spins.  dont know if I have
answered your ?????

Phelpo
 
phelpo said:
yes on metal, you know I don't know where the motor is, but the bearing on the right side
appears to be moving.

the edge of the metal cage wobbles left and right as it spins.  dont know if I have
answered your ?????

Phelpo
Click to expand...

As per pics in Duner's Manual, a cracked cage near the cage mount bushing (allows severe wobble), together with probable worn Number 1 blower/cage shaft bearing (caused by sustained spinning of wobbling cage). Or, the number 1 bearing failed due to lack of lube..and its failure created excessive cage wobble that cracked the mounting area near the shaft bushing. The OE #1 bearing is usually all brass and designed to be lubricated routinely. The design and placement of the #1 OE bearing and lube point is not accessible through the external casing of the unit..therefore the bearing is pending failure to each OE unit. The bearing replacement (Upgrade) Duner has identified is permenantly lubricated.

The Cage has an open end and closed end. The motor is on the closed end of the cage behind the cracked cage mounting bushing. The # 1 bearing is on the blower motor shaft end just outside the open end of the cage. (see excellent pics in Duner's manual).

Note: If you find a cracked mount in the cage,,you'll need the new plastic cage shown in Duner's manual.

Charlie
 
Took a look at the basement air and how to get it out.  Looks like I have to loosen two large
bolts at the back and remove several L shaped brackets around the unit.  It looks like it
should slide straight out w/o raising or lowering it.  Yes I'll have to raise it a little to slide
it out but not over any bars.  Will take photos since this is a 2004 unit.  I'll probably
just o and but a plastic cage and replace it along with the bearings.

thanks guys for all the info you have provided.

Phelpo
​
 
phelpo said:
Took a look at the basement air and how to get it out.  Looks like I have to loosen two large
bolts at the back and remove several L shaped brackets around the unit.  It looks like it
should slide straight out w/o raising or lowering it.  Yes I'll have to raise it a little to slide
it out but not over any bars.  Will take photos since this is a 2004 unit.  I'll probably
just o and but a plastic cage and replace it along with the bearings.

thanks guys for all the info you have provided.

Phelpo
​
Click to expand...

Separating the cold-warm air duct from the unit is tricky too. Swing it back away gently from unit just far enough to slide unit out. Hold it away from unit with bungie cord. See Duner's manual. Plan on new sealant when you resecure the duct to the unit.

Unit Electrical connections...work slowly..take photos for any reconnects.

Have fun.

Charlie
 
Charlie, I'd like to offer to you the chance of a life time,  come over to Silver Springs and we'll learn together.

Phelpo
 
phelpo said:
Charlie, I'd like to offer to you the chance of a life time,  come over to Silver Springs and we'll learn together.

Phelpo
Click to expand...

(off topic)

Just missed you two weeks ago as I drove through there in MH to Lake Okeechobee, FL. Back and cold comfy in Brandon, SD
Actually, I really like that type of tinkering..glad to help if I was around there. Don't know what round trip air is to Gainsville..but it's much cheaper that you taking the rig to dealer for repair. Start with 600-1000 dollars labor just to pull and install unit...then there's dealer parts costs and more labor at FL 135 dollar plus/hr rates..

Or, you could drive to Brandon and park on concrete pad by my home.. free full hookups. Duner's been here. I have all the shop of tools in garage right by coach. We could do job in a day..if you had all the parts OH.

Getting coach ready for next trip to Las Vegas, NASCAR.

Charlie
 
so what happens in Vegas????  ha ha

I'm about 60 miles from Daytona but won't go to the race, tttooooooooo many people....

so is Jimmy going to win the 6th???

Phelpo
 
Update,  I have received the bird cage and bearings Bill recommended. 
I started last night to pull my unit following Bills instructions.  Removed
several screws holding the bottom in, (same as Bills), but the top is
different.  It has a solid sheet metal piece with about 10 screws  and
it is wedged in between the unit and the framing but I got it out.

Yes I'm taking pictures but posting them is another thing.

So now I'm looking at mine and Bill's pics and the front looks the
same but there are differences,  his photo showing the the cold output
ducting is different than mine.  Mine takes a sharp upturn and goes
into the rear cap, making it real hard to get at the screws on one
side and then there are screws on top tooooooo!!!  Damn.  So I'm
thinking about separating the insulation from the duct and then
taping everything back together.  This unit has to to lowered using
some type of lift,  (just like John's photos show when he had his
replaced for free) , but then there is the cold air return on the back
side up against the engine, that has a sheet metal deflector up
against it.  For the record John's and mine are somewhat the same
but I do not have the large hole on top like his, my top is like
Bill's.

It is raining right now so I'm doing an update.  Input is always
good.

Phelpo
 
phelpo said:
Update,  I have received the bird cage and bearings Bill recommended. 
I started last night to pull my unit following Bills instructions.  Removed
several screws holding the bottom in, (same as Bills), but the top is
different.  It has a solid sheet metal piece with about 10 screws  and
it is wedged in between the unit and the framing but I got it out.

Yes I'm taking pictures but posting them is another thing.

So now I'm looking at mine and Bill's pics and the front looks the
same but there are differences,  his photo showing the the cold output
ducting is different than mine.  Mine takes a sharp upturn and goes
into the rear cap, making it real hard to get at the screws on one
side and then there are screws on top tooooooo!!!  Damn.  So I'm
thinking about separating the insulation from the duct and then
taping everything back together.  This unit has to to lowered using
some type of lift,  (just like John's photos show when he had his
replaced for free) , but then there is the cold air return on the back
side up against the engine, that has a sheet metal deflector up
against it.  For the record John's and mine are somewhat the same
but I do not have the large hole on top like his, my top is like
Bill's.

It is raining right now so I'm doing an update.  Input is always
good.

Phelpo
Click to expand...

Thanks for update.

About the duct and connection of duct to the unit. That sounds familiar. From my experience, it's far better to fight the screws securing the duct to the unit with sockets etc..rather than to separate the duct from the upper duct routed-going up into the cap. Getting the right tape or glue/sealer to refasten the duct joints is a challenge. Make sure OAT is mid 70s and surfaces are squeaky clean for all re-tapes..reseals. Gorilla Tape, Gorilla Glue, Liquid Nails are some of my favorites. As a general rule..try to avoid any mid duct separations that have to be resealed or re taped. I can almost guarantee your first cool air duct leak six months from now will be where you patched the duct joint back together.

All those sheet metal screws you take out, its a good inexpensive idea to replace them (rusted-messed up head slots) with new plated identicals from hardware store.

We are rooting for you!

Charlie
 
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