More questions.... :)

I've looked,  and maybe I it's here somewhere, but I can't find specifics....We don't plan on doing much "boondocking", except the occasional sporting event or concert.....(I know, I know...the walmart parking lot is not boondocking, so let's just call it boonmartdocking ok? LOL)

When using shore water what's the best way to close the water holding tank?  Full?  Empty?  Full with heavy or light chlorine?  Or something else?  Also the grey/black water tanks.

What's the difference between using an extension cord from a 110 outlet and a 50 amp hook up?  How long can you stay hooked up to 110?

I have to explain to an electrician what I need installed to run the motorhome and have some 110 outlets on the same pole, what exactly should I say?  (I won't be present to supervise)

If I must, why get an alignment after loading the motorhome?

This one is pretty much common sense, but I'm second guessing myself and want to know what others do or think.  Severe storms?  Tornados? Hurricanes?  I know what I'm gonna do.  Go to the 3rd little piggys house or a suitable hotel....

Thanks again.  I'll be glad when I can answer some questions for someone like me. 

Rob
'05 FW Bounder 38N.

I'll get it started and others will no doubt offer additional help.  When you are not using the fresh water tank, how you leave it probably depends on how long it will be until you do.  Will you need it in a couple of weeks when you leave or are you there for the season.  I usually drain it if I will be there for a long time and then refill (partially) when I am ready to leave with the amount of water I need to get me to the next place, or home.

Tell the electrician you need a 30amp hookup or a 50amp hookup, depending on what your motor home requires.  And while 50amp would be a little more costly it would handle your next motor home also if this one is 30 amp.  He will put in a special receptacle that you can plug directly into and will be running heavier wire to service it.  Plugging in with an extension cord depends on the size of the cord and the length.  You will need an adapter if it is a regular 20amp cord and it may not provide the necessary juice to run what you need.  If you have an application where you need a cord, you can buy 30amp or 50amp cords that are real expensive but they do a much better job.

In severe storms, I have been told to park your toad beside the motor home and in the line that the wind will be coming form.  That way it helps block the wind form getting under the motor home and tipping it over.  I have not tried this solution and have no interest in doing so.

We generally leave the water in the fresh tank, at what ever level it happens to be. If parked for an extended period, I would drain and (partially) refill with fresh, just to have fresher water with adequate chlorine in the tank (for health and taste reasons). If the water supply is already chlorinated city water, you don't need to add anything. If well water or unsure, I'd add a bit of chlorine bleach to make sure it stays sanitary. You don't need a lot - an ounce of Clorox bleach will treat 60 gallons of water.

Gray and black tanks don't need anything special until the next time you have an opportunity to dump them.

As for the electric, be very careful because electricians are usually unfamiliar with RV hook-ups and all to often install the wrong receptacle or voltage. If you want a full 50A hook-up, it will likely be expensive because it requires a 240v circuit with heavy gauge wire (typically 6 gauge) and a NEMA 14-50R receptacle.  You only need 50A service at home if you expect to use multiple air conditions and essentially live in the RV. RV 30A service is what most people install, since it is adequate for light use or storage and less expensive.  For 30A service, you need to install an ANSI/Nema  TT30R  outlet with 120V power and wire sufficient for 30A (typically 10 gauge). This is 120v service - not 240. Make sure he understands that and does not attempt to use a 30A dryer outlet (NEMA 10-30R) or welder outlet as a substitute. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME!

You might want to print a copy of the pages below for the service you choose:
http://www.myrv.us/electric/

As for residential 110/120 vs the others, the difference is the amount of power available. A standard household outlet is rated for only 15A, or perhaps 20A if a heavy duty one.  Amps x voltage = watts, so a 120v, 15A circuit has only 1800 watts available for use, while a 30A, 120v RV supply has 3600 watts. An air conditioner uses about 1200W, a toaster or hairdryer about 1000 watts and a microwave overs 1000-1500W, so you get the idea. A household outlet doesn't let you run a lot of things at the same time in the RV, but any single thing will work ok.

You can run indefinitely on household 110v/120v if you are careful in what you turn on. If you use your propane to power the fridge, water heater and supply heat, you can get along quite well.

Thank you and thank you.  I'm all over it!!!