Towing

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Yaksailor

Yaksailor

Active member
Joined
Mar 6, 2011
Posts
30
Location
Palm Harbor, Fl
I'm trying to get all the info I need regarding towing. Wife and I are buying a 2011 Jeep Wrangler to be towed by our 2009 Monocco Monarch Chevy 8.1 Liter 34 ft. The jeep looks like a good fit for what we have. I've researched the tow bars and base plates so I think I'm okay with what I know so far. My big questions are the brakes for the toads. I researched your library and was okay with it until I called Remco for a question and left a little confused. I thought everyone was required to have some sort brakes on their towed vehicles. He said some do and some don't and it was a personal choice. I thought it was required! I'm familiar with the state laws but he said some people just take the risk of a ticket than get the required brakes.  He also said to test my RV and toad by driving and braking on a parking lot. If I feel the toad push my RV then I may need brakes cause it would be worst in the mountains...I'm going to get brakes just not certain what I need and what's the best. I have hydraulic brakes, what do you guys think is the best for me Okay RV Pros what's the scoop.. Thanks   
 
Don't believe getting a ticket is the real issue... It's the liability of being on the road with a potentially dangerous and illegal vehicle - not worth the risk... unless you don't believe in insurances of any kind or have safety concerns .. Murphys Law prevails...
We put in Blue Ox plate on the Jeep CG, the Blue Ox Addladin tow bar, and the Blue Ox Patriot proportional braking system.... only used it on two outings so far and only for approx 1000 mi so far but like it - works great. Can tell it's there going up inclines, hills, etc but dont feel much of anything slowing down or stopping... even had panic stops to miss deer and then turkeys... seemed to take care of the toad momentum fine.
 
State laws vary and many do not consider a towed car to be a "trailer", even though logic says it is. But that really isn't the issue.

The coach chassis builder designed the coach brakes to stop the chassis GVWR, not the combined weight of coach and toad (GCWR). And he probably specified that brakes are required for any towed load over 1500 lbs. Furthermore, installation of an auxiliary brake on an RV toad is commonly accepted practice, so failure to do so leaves one exposed to a civil lawsuit for negligence in the case of an accident where your coach failed to stop in time. Finally, the law of physics apply: every lb of weight that is in motion takes braking energy to stop. Increasing the combined weight of the coach without increasing the brake capacity is guaranteed to increase your stopping distance proportionally.

What brake to choose? They all work, so the choice depends on budget and convenience. With your hydraulic brakes and non-air brakes & suspension, I would be looking at a Brake Buddy (portable), or a Unified Tow Brake, or SMI Stay N Play Duo or maybe an M&G.  These are pretty much "best of breed" for their respective types. But less expensive systems will do an adequate job as well, e.g. the Tow-V-Aire or the Ready Brake.
 
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