Batteries - should MH remain connected to shore power while not being used

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Tbone

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Feb 15, 2010
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Hi, I am able to park my MH at my house and keep it attached to power for the 30 amp service it needs. Is it ok to keep it attached for several weeks while it is parked and minimal electricity is being used (clocks, etc.). I was wondering if extended connection could 'over charge' the coach batteries and affect the battery acid solution to 'boil off'?  thx
 
Please add the year and model of your RV to your signature (edit your profile), then it will be easier for others to help you.

We have discussed this very topic previously, but the answer is - it depends.  If you have a three stage battery charger that can properly float a charge, then you will fine being plugged in for long periods of time.  If you have a higher-end Winnebago, then you might have a charger that knows how to float a charge (a "three-stage" charger.")  Lower price-point units have converters that will not properly float a charge and can/will/maybe cook your batteries.

Our coach is always plugged in to shore power when we're not using it - we have a Xantrex RS2000 three-stage charger/inverter.  If your unit doesn't have a three-stage charger, then you can use a Battery Tender or some other external charger to keep the batteries topped off.
 
Regarding battery boil over, that will indeed depend on what kind of converter is installed in the motorhome. The converters that  do not employ 3 stage (smart) chargers are good candidates for causing this problem. You have to keep your eye on the battery fluid level. Once the batteries are at full charge, it may be more practical to disconnect them and only hook up a charger once in a while to maintain them, or keep them hooked up to a trickle charger.  This avoids the possibility of a battery that develops a bad cell from damaging your system. Depending on where you are, (IE a cold place or a warm place), it could be beneficial to store them inside over very cold periods. The chassis battery (starter battery) also requires attention as many do not charge from the converter under shore power and could, perhaps, require the addition of a trickle charger to maintain it.

It would also be beneficial to try and figure out what loads are still on when parked like that and disconnect them where possible. Two come to mind, the thermostat and CO /propane detector. Clocks and smoke detectors are likely have their own 1.5V/9V  batteries,  The radio memory is likely on the chassis battery etc.
 
thx for responses. actually we are moving from a class c to an 'A' this coming weekend. I did have an issue with battery boiling with the c. Our new coach will be a 2011 Itasca 33c. As we haven't picked it up yet, I don't know the battery monitoring systems, but it does has a load monitor gauge. I will inquire with dealer on the 'three stage' charger that you mentioned.
 
Tbone said:
... I will inquire with dealer on the 'three stage' charger that you mentioned.

Don't expect an accurate answer unless you have an exceptionally well-informed dealer.  Find out who makes the charger/converter and give the manufacturer a call.

By the way, congratulations on the 2011 Itasca!  Exactly what model is it - Reyo?  Suncruiser?  Sunstar? or ???
 
thx again, good advice to ask the mfg, It is a Sunova. Yes, we are very excited to make the step...
 
Most likely your unit with come with a boat anchor Parallax single stage Converter/Charger.  We dumped it and replaced it with a 3 stage Progressive 7245 with Charge wizard.  There are plenty of good reviews of this charger, and we bought ours on Ebay.  We leave ours plugged in year round with very little battery water evaporation....maybe once a year I might add a very small amount to each cell.

Our unit has been covered (with a ADCO cover with TyVek) since December, and when I checked the batteries, all is well with full charge and no evaporation for the last 5 months.
 
Do any of you suggest shutting off the power to the house and chassis batteries if you're not going to be plugged in?
 
Hi Ho:  Unless you have a defective battery leaving the charger connected with about 13.7 to 13.8 volts on the batteries is the best approach.  It doesn't matter how many stages or what kind of charger you have if you simply maintain the charge voltage at this voltage it won't hurt the batteries.  We leave ours connected all winter long and usually add water only in the spring.  However the one caveat is that you keep the electrolyte at the proper level--definitely not below the level of the plates.  Just monitor the battery voltage on the one-place and all is good.    What isn't good is letting the batteries get discharged, having them freeze and break..  What a mess and expense.

By the way, you probably have a new multistage charger which is a good thing because it does charge the batteries faster.

Dirk
 
4ducksrus  Do any of you suggest shutting off the power to the house and chassis batteries if you're not going to be plugged in?
4D, I think on your newer rig (06 & later Winnebago's) you will have the solar charger with the trikLStart. http://www.lslproducts.com/TLSPage.html
If this is true and you are not covering the solar panel with a cover or inside storage then I would just disconnect the power switch for the inside of the coach. This way the solar panel will charge your house batteries and the trikLStart will charge your chassis batteries. This should carry you for a long time (months) if everything is up to snuff.
 
4ducksrus said:
Do any of you suggest shutting off the power to the house and chassis batteries if you're not going to be plugged in?

What Dirk said!  If the batteries are disconnected with no float charge, they will self-discharge due to their internal resistance.  Deep-cycle lead acid batteries shouldn't be discharged below 50% (less for starting batteries.)  And in freezing weather, discharged batteries are significantly more susceptible to freezing.

The little 10 watt solar panel included on many of our units is not large enough to keep the batteries floated.  It might keep one battery charged up, but that would be a stretch.  You would need 50-100 watts of solar to keep four or five batteries properly floated.  If you have shore power where you store your coach and a three-stage charger, I think it is far better to have the coach plugged in and the charger going.
 
thx again to everyone. Great information and fodder for my work when we pick the unit up this weekend...
 
I don't know where you live but here in Mobile Al. in the 37 years we have been here we have only been hit by lightning FIVE times. As we are second in the nation for lighting I don't leave it plugged in. I don't want the lighting to really overcharge my battery's or  anything else! Art (sparky in Alabama)
 
i always wondered about this in the back of my mind, anyone know about my winni chieftain / cummins / freightliner - it is a 1999.?
 
i always wondered about this in the back of my mind, anyone know about my winni chieftain / cummins / freightliner - it is a 1999.?


Which "this" are you referring to, Susan? Disconnecting the battery? Your Chieftain is no different than any other in that regard.
 
hey gary,

i was just wondering if leaving my mh plugged into shore power was bad for the batteries.

thanks!
 
Not if you have a decent battery charger and occasionally check the water level in the batteries. Batteries like being fully charged, so leaving them on the charger is fine as long as it goes into what is called float charge mode when they reach full charge.

Storing them without at least occasional charging is not good. The battery discharges over time, even if disconnected from the wiring.
 
Now that I store my MH where I have electricity this is my concern also. Since I have a Paralax (sp?) 7400 charger/converter. I did find that I charge both sets of batteries while plugged into shore power. I also found that the position of the Coach (House) battery disconnect has no meaning when plugged into shore power. In other words, I can not be connected to shore power, turn off the Coach battery switch (no light), connect to shore power and the Coach battery switch will light and the solenoid will go to the "on" position. Found that both banks chagred by a simple voltage check at the batteries. Chassis batteries 12.5v (disconnected from Shore) and Coach 12.3v (disconnected from Shore). Once connected to shore power, voltage on Chassis batteries went to 13.5v and the Coach batteries went to 13.8v.
 

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