Any suggestions on mounting the ready brake brake indicator wire on a Voyager?

Hi everyone,

We are gradually getting everything in order on our new 2011 35 foot Voyager.  Two weeks ago I got the Ready Brake tow system hooked up.  Everything works great.  The only thing we haven't done is run the run the brake light indicator wire from the Ready Brake lever to the drivers area in the MH.  Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to do this?  I'd like to avoid poking holes in the MH if possible.

By the way last weekend we finished our longest trip to date.  Nine days to New River State Park in NC.  Towed the jeep wrangler.  No issues.  Also learned about the "tow/haul" button on the MH.  It downshifts the MH when it's going downhill.  It makes the down hill runs much less stressful not to mention reducing wear on the brakes.

Dan

I would think you could run the wires underneath along the frame and bring them up to the dash through the firewall, possibly through an existing hole then reseal the point.  Since I don't know if your MH is front engine or a DP, that's about all I can offer.

Sorry I can't help you more with the wiring, but I'd like to comment on the Ready Brake system and downhill runs.  I have the Ready Brake (built into my Ready Brute tow bar).  I am pleased with it, but have wondered about the affects of downhill runs when using the engine to supply drag (geared down).  Under this condition, the Ready Brake will apply the toad's brakes constantly.  In more normal downhill runs, I would typically pump the MH brakes as was necessary which would also effectively pump the brakes of the toad.  When using the engine for braking, pumping is not an option.  So, I am somewhat concerned about overheating the toad brakes.  Granted, Jeep Wrangler brakes can be repaired much more cheaply than the MH brakes, but I still wonder about it.  I have no experience with other brake systems, but I would assume they would have the same effect.

The only braking indication I get from my ReadyBrake system on down hill runs is when I downshift. I do sometimes see a momentary flash from the indicator then, but just for a moment until the preload spring kicks in again. If you're regularly seeing the indicator come on for down hill runs, you may have the cable adjusted a bit too tight.

Dan T said:

Hi everyone,

We are gradually getting everything in order on our new 2011 35 foot Voyager.  Two weeks ago I got the Ready Brake tow system hooked up.  Everything works great.  The only thing we haven't done is run the run the brake light indicator wire from the Ready Brake lever to the drivers area in the MH.  Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to do this?  I'd like to avoid poking holes in the MH if possible.

Click to expand...

As said, run the wires along the frame to the front, and then through an existing grommet to get them under the dash. If you don't want to drill a hole in the dash for the LED, take it with you to a local Radio Shack store, and see if they have an LED mounting bracket that will let you mount it under the dash. Otherwise, a small plastic  "L" or box might be adaptable for the purpose.

NY_Dutch said:

The only braking indication I get from my ReadyBrake system on down hill runs is when I downshift. I do sometimes see a momentary flash from the indicator then, but just for a moment until the preload spring kicks in again. If you're regularly seeing the indicator come on for down hill runs, you may have the cable adjusted a bit too tight.

Click to expand...

It is in a "downshift" or engine braking condition that I was addressing, not just coasting down a hill.  If the MH is being held back by brakes or engine, the Ready Brake should kick in as long as the weight of the toad is sufficient to overcome the preload spring.  The indicator light is triggered by movement of the lever, not by braking of the toad.  The light would be triggered even if the brake cable were disconnected - if anything triggered sooner as the cable propably delays the lever movement some small amount.

I appologize to the OP for this thread drift.

Molaker said:

It is in a "downshift" or engine braking condition that I was addressing, not just coasting down a hill.  If the MH is being held back by brakes or engine, the Ready Brake should kick in as long as the weight of the toad is sufficient to overcome the preload spring.  The indicator light is triggered by movement of the lever, not by braking of the toad.  The light would be triggered even if the brake cable were disconnected - if anything triggered sooner as the cable propably delays the lever movement some small amount.

I appologize to the OP for this thread drift.

Click to expand...

On my ReadyBrute, the indicator light is connected to the toad brake switch per NSA's instructions. Have they added a switch at the lever on newer models?

NY_Dutch said:

On my ReadyBrute, the indicator light is connected to the toad brake switch per NSA's instructions. Have they added a switch at the lever on newer models?

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Apparently.  My Ready Brake has a magnetic switch mounted on the lever.  When movement of the lever separates the 2 parts of the switch, the indicator is activated - which would explain the differences in our indications.  Actually, I think I would prefer having the toad brake lights turn on the indicator as it would be a better confirmation of toad braking.  When I have time, I might look into changing my wiring.

The amount of braking force you get by downshifting to 2nd gear is less than what you get on even a moderate stop by applying the brakes.  If you have the ReadyBrake properly adjusted, it's won't engage on the slight braking force you get when you're using the transmission to retard your downhill speed - unless you're going down a really steep hill with the transmission in 1st gear and the engine screaming.  In that case I wouldn't worry too much about wearing out the toad brakes.

If you are seeing braking when coasting down a hill in 2nd gear, you have the  cable adjusted too tight.  It is possible to get it so tight that it applies the toad brakes every time you release your foot from the accelerator.

I also liked the old system better.  Mounting the brake indicator on the motorhome makes wiring more convenient, but doesn't really tell you when the toad brakes are being applied.

Molaker said:

Apparently.  My Ready Brake has a magnetic switch mounted on the lever.  When movement of the lever separates the 2 parts of the switch, the indicator is activated - which would explain the differences in our indications.  Actually, I think I would prefer having the toad brake lights turn on the indicator as it would be a better confirmation of toad braking.  When I have time, I might look into changing my wiring.

Click to expand...

Ahh! I just checked the NSA site, and yep, I did see the new magnetic switch setup. I agree, I like having the indicator controlled by the toad brake switch better. The lever switch won't tell you that the brake cable broke.  ;D

The older DL100 brake switch operated indicator instruction manual PDF file can be downloaded here:

http://12078.net/rv-stuff/ReadyBrakeDL-100DashLight.pdf

Molaker said:

I would think you could run the wires underneath along the frame and bring them up to the dash through the firewall, possibly through an existing hole then reseal the point. 

Click to expand...

That's what we did on our Adventurer and worked great. We also did not use the included light because it is so tiny, bought one of those red neon light bars with sticky back so no drilling required and can actually see it since it is larger than a pea ;D.

Molaker said:

Apparently.  My Ready Brake has a magnetic switch mounted on the lever.  When movement of the lever separates the 2 parts of the switch, the indicator is activated - which would explain the differences in our indications. 

Click to expand...

I don't understand what the benefit to that would be? Anyone know the reasoning behind NSA making that change? Just curious.

Dar said:

I don't understand what the benefit to that would be? Anyone know the reasoning behind NSA making that change? Just curious.

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If you read the old NSA installation instructions about hooking to the brake light switch, it mentions warranty issues if the toads electrical system is modified. I'll bet that has something to do with the change Dar. I think having it actuated by the brake pedal makes a lot more sense, and I may change mine.

Lou Schneider said:

If you are seeing braking when coasting down a hill in 2nd gear, you have the  cable adjusted too tight.  It is possible to get it so tight that it applies the toad brakes every time you release your foot from the accelerator.

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The problem is, with the switch operating the way it does, I cannot tell if I'm getting braking when going downhill in 2nd gear.  The indicator light comes on, but it is not a direct indication of actual toad braking.  Only that the lever has moved enough to activate the switch.  It has nothing to do with the cable tension as the indicator does not depend upon toad brakes.

I had a thought earlier and I think I'll follow through with it.  Since I have a class 'C' with a rear window, I think I'll add an auxiliary light to the toad's brake lights and place it in view in my rear view mirror (maybe hang it from the toad's rear view mirror).  The light would come on when the toad's brake lights come on and not just when the indicator light switch was activated (the toad's OEM brake lights are not triggered by the MH towing sys. brake lights).  As it is, the way I test for cable tightness is to pull on it to see if the toad brake lights come on (DW watches for me) and to verify they go off when released.

Molaker said:

I had a thought earlier and I think I'll follow through with it.  Since I have a class 'C' with a rear window, I think I'll add an auxiliary light to the toad's brake lights and place it in view in my rear view mirror (maybe hang it from the toad's rear view mirror).  The light would come on when the toad's brake lights come on and not just when the indicator light switch was activated (the toad's OEM brake lights are not triggered by the MH towing sys. brake lights).  As it is, the way I test for cable tightness is to pull on it to see if the toad brake lights come on (DW watches for me) and to verify they go off when released.

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I think I'm going to install a normally open relay under the hood of my jeep that's closed by power from the Jeep brake light switch. Then I can just hook the existing already powered brake indicator wires to the switch side of the relay. That way power for the indicator will still be from the mh.

Water Dog said:

If you read the old NSA installation instructions about hooking to the brake light switch, it mentions warranty issues if the toads electrical system is modified. I'll bet that has something to do with the change Dar. I think having it actuated by the brake pedal makes a lot more sense, and I may change mine.

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Thanks Dennis, that sounds like a logical theory although I do believe that it makes more sense to have it actuated by the brake pedal and I am more confident with ours being set up that way. We did have to install a switch because we would lose the feed after the car did it's 10 min. delay power save but thanks to the DH being very knowledgeable with electrical it was an easy fix.

http://roadmasterinc.com/products/braking/stoplight_switch.html

I took the easy way out. I ran a wire from the Jeep's brake light wire up to the front of the Jeep. Then a jumper attached to the umbilical cord connects to another wire that runs to the dash on the MH. I would highly recommend putting the indicator light in a place that will catch your eye anytime it comes on. I selected an open spot on the right center of the dash right of the speedo.  The jack down light was installed just left of the speedo, so now it looks balanced and it appears to be factory. One simple 1/4" hole and it's done.

Dan T said:

Hi everyone,

We are gradually getting everything in order on our new 2011 35 foot Voyager.  Two weeks ago I got the Ready Brake tow system hooked up.  Everything works great.  The only thing we haven't done is run the run the brake light indicator wire from the Ready Brake lever to the drivers area in the MH.  Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to do this?  I'd like to avoid poking holes in the MH if possible.

By the way last weekend we finished our longest trip to date.  Nine days to New River State Park in NC.  Towed the jeep wrangler.  No issues.  Also learned about the "tow/haul" button on the MH.  It downshifts the MH when it's going downhill.  It makes the down hill runs much less stressful not to mention reducing wear on the brakes.

Dan

Click to expand...

On our 2010 Itasca Meridian V Class, I used the "from brake controller" wire on the Trailer Brake wiring connector under the MH dash to connect a small panel mounted LED to my SMI brake indicator in my TOAD. The "from brake controller" wire isn't connected to anything other than a pin on the factory 7-pin trailer connector on the back of the MH.

JUst to go back to the OP, when did Winnebago manufacture a "Voyager"?