Hi! My rv is dying unexpectantly while driving. Don't really know where to start looking. I can put it into neutral and light it back up whiteout having to pull over. It's running great besides that. I'll be rolling down the road then it dies. No puttering or anything like that. Maybe electric? I'm not sure what would make it poop out .. Any ideas?
Engine dies while driving 1990 Pace Arrow
- Thread starter brody
- Start date
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jagnweiner
Well-known member
Ooh, I saw the subject line and was expecting some sort of medical emergency. 
Sorry, nothing to offer to answer the question.
Sorry, nothing to offer to answer the question.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Fuel pump or fuel filter would be my first guesses. Electrical after that.
That vintage of 460 was notorious for failure of the tank fuel pump and Ford finally redesigned the pump around late 1995 and I think 1996 models had the improved pump. many, if not most, earlier 460 chassis have already had the fuel pump replaced.
That vintage of 460 was notorious for failure of the tank fuel pump and Ford finally redesigned the pump around late 1995 and I think 1996 models had the improved pump. many, if not most, earlier 460 chassis have already had the fuel pump replaced.
Conquest aka Robert
Well-known member
My old southwind use to do that it took the shop a month to trace down the bad wiring some fool had doubled up one of the circiuts and it was put 24 volt into the system. Mine would only stay running if I pushed AUX start and hold it. The only problem was the first time it did it I got it fired up and it backfired thru the exhaust and BLEW out both mufflers. If this just started I would suspect the ignition module is going bad. We had a ford lynx that would just die it would not start right away the last mech poured water over it right after it died and it fired up. New module worked fine for about year then same thing.
gwcowgill
Well-known member
Ford had some problems with ignition modules and very well could be a module but, when a module fails it normally must cool down before re firing. I would suspect a loose ground or a bad connection somewhere. Sometimes when the engine fires right away, the vibration of the engin e cranking makes contact in the circuit. An intermittant problem like you have can be very hard to diagnose unless the tech can get it to fail in the shop. Good Luck......
Irover
Well-known member
Sounds like a fuel issue. First thing I would do, Change the fuel filters. Should be one located on the frame on the drivers' side, one on the carb inlet. I have a build date of 9/87 and mine is a holley, after a tuneup, Had to replace the power valve under the front bottom of carb because of backfiring and breaking the diaphram. No problem in the last 30K. A 1990 should be Fuel injected and only have a frame mount fuel filter. If ignition, check for circuit breakers in fuse panel.
Hhmmmm all very good suggestions. Because it doesn't sputter at all(just dies all out) I was thinking electrical. Could be electrical to fuel pump maybe. There's a switch to turn the pump on under the hood. Sort of a kill switch. Could be that's my problem. Sort of Jerry rigged.. I'll dig into it and let you all know what I come up with!
Brody,
We have the Chevy engine but thought I would throw this out there anyway. We had our fuel pump replaced back in fall of 09 with our symptoms being somewhat similar where as the problem occurred when hot. Ours was hard to start when hot. The tech stated that it was the pressure valve integrated into the pump that was failing. From my understanding when the lines were hot the gas in the return lines would basically evaporate because the pressure valve was too weak to maintain pressure. Hence the longer starts when hot to build up the needed pressure. I don't know if the Ford fuel pressure valve is also integrated into the pump on the Ford as well or a separate entity but maybe if it is even worse than ours was that would explain it just dying. Hope it's any easy fix/find!
We have the Chevy engine but thought I would throw this out there anyway. We had our fuel pump replaced back in fall of 09 with our symptoms being somewhat similar where as the problem occurred when hot. Ours was hard to start when hot. The tech stated that it was the pressure valve integrated into the pump that was failing. From my understanding when the lines were hot the gas in the return lines would basically evaporate because the pressure valve was too weak to maintain pressure. Hence the longer starts when hot to build up the needed pressure. I don't know if the Ford fuel pressure valve is also integrated into the pump on the Ford as well or a separate entity but maybe if it is even worse than ours was that would explain it just dying. Hope it's any easy fix/find!
When an engine dies suddenly, then lights up immediately, you can pretty much rule out vapor lock. (vapor lock does not appear then disappear immediately.) If the fuel pump dies, assuming it's an electric pump, turning off the power then turning the power on won't fix it. The most likely cause is an intermittent electrical connection. Believe me - been there, done that. my Ford Ranger (1990 also!) started doing that, and it was an intermittent HV wire from the coil to the distributor. It was not secured properly, and wiggled all over the place till it finally developed an internal open. I also had the famous "FORD fuel pump" problem with my Bounder, and gained a lot of experience with vapor lock symptoms.
These kinds of problems can be pretty hard to find. A few suggestions of things to check: A weak/bad coil (esp if it does it at higher RPM only), bad igniter in the distributor, wiring to either of the previous, ignition key switch (check by jiggling?). I'm sure there are other things. I suppose it could be a bad wiring to the injector(s) as well.
If it does it consistently, you can rig up a timing light into the cab so that it will flash while the engine is running and see if it stops flashing when the engine cuts out. This only works if it cuts out long enough to see the lights. Doesn't rule out all ignition problems, but can confirm them if it stops flashing.
That said, I've got a '68 ford with a 390 that is completely rebuilt with new distributor and all ignition components, fuel pump, carb, etc... everything was redone and it still cuts out for no apparent reason, but only for an instant occasionally. Still can't figure out why, they can be tough!
If it does it consistently, you can rig up a timing light into the cab so that it will flash while the engine is running and see if it stops flashing when the engine cuts out. This only works if it cuts out long enough to see the lights. Doesn't rule out all ignition problems, but can confirm them if it stops flashing.
That said, I've got a '68 ford with a 390 that is completely rebuilt with new distributor and all ignition components, fuel pump, carb, etc... everything was redone and it still cuts out for no apparent reason, but only for an instant occasionally. Still can't figure out why, they can be tough!
mike eddleman
Well-known member
My 85 pace arrow did that to. I went through the electrical system and was replacing everything. I was getting ready to go camping and decided to take it down the road one final time and still had the motor cover and air filter off. When it died I looked down and their was no gas going into the carb. it was the fuel pump. I put a 20.00 electric pump on it and never had the trouble again.
On electronic ignition systems there will be an 'ignition module' or I think it is some times called an igniter. It is an internal part in the distributor that replaces the function of old school points, it can be replaced. A very loose (worn) distributor shaft can cause odd problems too. I had a small foreign car that would die unexpectedly for no reason and then start up again like nothing was wrong. We replaced everything in sight as we figured it was electrical. Turned out to be the ignition module and we ended up replacing the whole distributor.
Conquest aka Robert
Well-known member
Brody;
The module will be under the rotor laying flat. First I would just remove it and clean the contacts. You could check with the local part store and see if they can test it most do this for FREE.
The module will be under the rotor laying flat. First I would just remove it and clean the contacts. You could check with the local part store and see if they can test it most do this for FREE.
