Electrical 101 - How do you run a new circuit?

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Ned,

The more information I get, the more this is becoming clear to me. My wiring diagram PDF won't fit on the attachments, but I can now see that not all my power comes through the load center. I never could understand why the breakers were tripping on the inverter, and now I think I do...that's where this particular circuit is powered.

I think now I just need to chase the General Purpose circuit and see if it has a receptacle somewhere that I can utilize. If so, that solves the problem.
 
seilerbird said:
A three way switch controls a load from two different locations. I don't know why it is called a three way, there are two switches and four different positions. This page has a schematic diagram:

A three way switch has that name because of the three conductors, common, and two travelers; likewise a four way switch.
 
Water Dog said:
A three way switch has that name because of the three conductors, common, and two travelers; likewise a four way switch.

By that logic then a four way switch should be called a five way switch. Four travelers and a common. But then again you are forgetting the ground wire.
 
Wow a lot of bandwidth in a short time.

To my point of view, it was far far easier, FOR ME, given the layout of my motor home, to simply run an additional circuit.  Though now that I think of it I likley could have done one of them off the A/C line, but I had the breaker already, so I just ran a new circuit.

Oh, the breakers are standard ones you can get at most places like Lowes, Home Depot, Joe's hardware, Sam'e electrical supply,,, Nothing exotic about them at all.               
 
seilerbird said:
By that logic then a four way switch should be called a five way switch. Four travelers and a common. But then again you are forgetting the ground wire.

No, the travelers sit in the passenger and dinette seats, and the common is in the drivers seat. The ground is the part you're driving on.  This is getting waaay too deep....! :D :D
 
As Ned describes, the power for the inverter comes through the 30A inverter feed breaker but never returns to the breaker panel. The breakers in the inverter handle the circuits powered that way. If you get the right loads on the AC1 Out and AC2 OUT circuits, you can trip the 30A breaker that feeds the inverter, but more often one of the branch breakers trips first.

I see there are no open slots on your breaker panel, so the best solution is the SPDT switch we discussed earlier, spliced to one of the a/c circuits. The output of the a/c breaker goes to the center (line) pole on the SPDT switch and the a/c wire to one of the two load terminals. The second load terminal would supply a new outlet to be used only for an electric heater. The neutral for the heater goes direct to the neutral bus in the breaker box. Likewise the outlet ground goes direct to the ground bus. Only the hot wire runs thru the SPDT switch.
 
Kim,
If you can chase another 12ga romex cable from a location for the outlet (for your heater) to the breaker box then I would pull out the 20amp breaker on the side labeled "Line 1" and replace it with a double 20amp (available at Home Depot, just be sure its the same type). This exactly what I did to have a circuit for a space heater that wasn't on the inverter.

Ken

 
Ken & Sheila said:
This exactly what I did to have a circuit for a space heater that wasn't on the inverter.

Ken,

That makes some sense; I really would not want a big amperage draw like the heater on the inverter anyway would I? Until this post, I never clearly realized where it was drawing the power from.

Kim
 
You would want the heater on the inverter if you are going to use it without the generator running or being on shore power. The inverter gives you 110 volts from your battery (it inverts 12 volts to 110 volts). So if you are going to run it when you are on battery power only it will need to be on the inverter.
 
If he tries to run an electric heater on the inverter, that 1500 watt power draw is going to eat his two house batteries in under a minute. But if its tv or a toaster, maybe the inverter circuit is a wise choice. However, the tv shouldn't be popping a breaker - we are talking maybe 100 watts.

The OP needs to think about what he wishes to power and under what circumstances. Adding circuit to the inverter doesn't achieve a lot, since it has a 30A max combined throughput anyway.
 
seilerbird said:
You would want the heater on the inverter if you are going to use it without the generator running or being on shore power.
Tom,

Based on how we live now, we don't see us boondocking at a time in the year when the extra heater was required. We would be "fair weather" boondockers. It seems pretty clear at the moment that our best investment is adding a circuit to the load center and getting the heater off that inverter side circuit.

The different comments and explanations have been very worthwhile in my education and I appreciate everyone's opinion. The brainstorming from experience is super - thanks to all, again, Electrical 102 may be on the horizon! Now if I can just get proficient with my voltmeter... :mad:

Kim
 
skyking4ar2 said:
Electrical 102 may be on the horizon! Now if I can just get proficient with my voltmeter... :mad:

Kim,

Search for information using this "using your multimeter"

Lots of good information.  Also I believe Radio Shack has a small book on this.
 
Kim,
I've forgotten where you are, but if you're still close, I 'd be happy to help (might even add one myself as I only have one cabin circuit and Tara's getting tired of resetting it). I have done this a few time (by the book).
Ernie
 
Kim,
We're going to be heading N through Bozeman, Anaconda, etc. next Wednesday. We have extra time on this leg (have to be in Idaho by the 26th. (may go in on 22nd.) and looking for stops (probably Missoula - stopping wouldn't interfere). How's the road to Ennis and from there N to 95? Looks as if we could go that way as well as through Bozeman. Not sure there is a Home Depot/Lowes or equal on the way though (I'd pick up the breaker(s), wire, and outlet(s) if necessary). I should have any tools needed.
Ernie
 
Easiest access to HD Or Lowes is in Bozeman off 19th, they are across the street from each other or Missoula off Reserve street across from the KOA.  There is also a True Value here in Belgrade.  There may, should be, a hardware in Ennis too.

If you come through Bozeman, give us a call.  We are near the flying J off I-90 at exit 298
 
Kim,
There's a Do It here in town (W. Yellowstone). I suspect we need the shallow outlets and if we add a breaker we need to know what brand. You might pull a cover off and verify that the outlets are about 1.5 inches or less deep and check what brand breakers you have., Otherwise we can just branch off one of the Air conditioner circuits at the breaker panel and run to where ever you want to put the outlet. It's really simple if you've done it.
Ernie
 
Ernie n Tara said:
Kim,
How's the road to Ennis and from there N to 95? Looks as if we could go that way as well as through Bozeman. Not sure there is a Home Depot/Lowes or equal on the way though (I'd pick up the breaker(s), wire, and outlet(s) if necessary). I should have any tools needed.
Ernie

Ernie, the road over is fine, and the road up to I-90 via Hwy 287 is fine as well...great scenery down through Earthquake Lake and Hebgen Lake. It's about 70 miles over here; you would like Ennis RV Village, too. We have a Tru-Valu and Ace here, both well supplied, being so far away from anything. Problem is, Wed I will be on the way to Butte to take Christi to the airport, and am coming back through Belgrade to see Jim Godward on the way back.

We will probably be over in W Yellowstone tomorrow or Monday and we'll try to catch up on this.

Kim
 
seilerbird said:
By that logic then a four way switch should be called a five way switch. Four travelers and a common. But then again you are forgetting the ground wire.

The common is not switched in a 4-way, only the travelers. The 4-way switch criss-crosses the two travelers. You can install as many 4-way switches between the two 3-ways as you want. The ground is not considered a conductor.
 
Kim,
We'll be here most of both days. I'm confident that we can clear up any likely issues with a visit to Do It and some hands on there.
Give us a call when you'll be around,
Ernie
 
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