Keyless entry - replacement of old system or retrofitting to one without

So I have phase 1 of my system installed. I took pictures, but need to spend some time with them. I'm going to try to add some comments so they'll make sense.

To review my project:
'04 Winnebago Adventurer. No lock system when new, wasn't available. So it was kind of two projects, adding power locks, then adding keyless. I ended up using parts from 6 different vehicles:
Lock solenoid -  90's Ford Escort (had one laying around)
Jamb contacts - Chevy Astro (two button), others would work too, it's what I found first
Keyless ("RAP") module - '99 Explorer (or others as noted above)
Relays - '99 Explorer
Lock/unlock button - '99 Explorer
Keypad - 90's Lincoln Towncar (chose it for the chrome bezel)
Relay memory module - late 90's Ford Econoline with a sliding door
Illuminated entry module - '93 Taurus (controls the porch light)

(Yeah, I enjoy poking around junkyards. And schematics.)

Phase 1 was to get the system in and working on the side door. The solenoid is installed just like Winnebago did on my father-in-law's Navion. I can now lock and unlock it with a keyless fob, the keypad (it's mounted by the outside grab handle), or a lock switch (that still needs to be installed - can't decide where I want it yet). The porch light turns on for 25 seconds when the door is unlocked via the keypad or key fob.

Phase 2 will be adding a solenoid to my driver's door. That'll be easy, it's hollow, and it won't need the jamb contacts. It'll unlock with a second push on the fob or keypad. I'll also add a lock/unlock button there. Just need to run some wires. And I need to hook up the parking lights so they'll blink when I lock it. I'm going to skip the horn hookup, no need to bother anyone when are camping.  (I'm also going to add a one touch power up/down window system - from a Pontiac - while I'm in there.)

I have a pile of modules left, and even some old fobs that work. Kind of an expert on these things now. If anyone has a Journey/Vectra around SE Michigan and the locks don't work, maybe I could help swapping one in, just to see how easy it is.

My goodness - that's a potpourri of parts!  Anxious to see the pictures!

I have a newer wireless system in my Tour. While it uses the Trimark fobs, I wonder how difficult it would be to add a keypad by the front door.

mrschwarz said:

I have a newer wireless system in my Tour. While it uses the Trimark fobs, I wonder how difficult it would be to add a keypad by the front door.

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Good question.  I'm betting the control module will accept a keypad, so wiring would be the major hurdle.

I still need to clean up some more pictures, but here are a couple.

The first shot is an early mockup of the harness I made. The Illuminated entry isn't there yet. It only connects to what is in the picture by 1 wire (you can see it in the installation picture). There's only 4 wires that needed to be connected beyond this harness, +/- 12 volts, and the lock solenoid. (Still need to run the wires over to the drivers' door of course.)

Second shot is the installed keypad. So far I and the kids can't resist locking and unlocking it almost every time we walk past, it's just so cool to have!

The last is a shot of the modules in place. They are on the side wall of my basement compartment behind the door. This kept wiring to a minimum. The keypad is just above it. The porch light switch is too. I did have to run two wires around the back side of the step to the jamb side of the door. Still some wires coiled up that need to be finished up, as well as taping up the harness nice.

Excellent!  Did you convert the basement doors to power locks?

I actually looked into converting my compartment doors to power a long time ago.

I found three hurdles:

- My handles don't have a feature that a solenoid can act (push/pull) on.
- New baggage handles that do allow for solenoids don't have the same shape as my existing ones, requiring some sort of trim plate or painting.
- New handles are like $50 each. For eight of nine doors. Plus the cost of solenoids.

Now that I could integrate them into my keyless system maybe I'll take another look. Looking doesn't cost anything...

Since the keyless entry seems to be an ongoing issue, I thought I would chime in with what I have done so far. Maybe someone else will find it helpful. I have only owned my coach for a year so I am still on the steep part of the learning curve (John C. has been a blessing with his website!!).

I had some trouble with my key fob and after doing a bit of research on it I realized that nearly everyone that had trouble all experienced a very intermittent issue just like I was having. Sometimes it would work, then not at all, then only when held close, and a round and a round we go. I had already tried all the remedies that have been suggested on this forum so I thought I was just out of luck. But, I have a personal problem when it comes to this kind of thing. I just can't let it go. So, I took a hard look at the battery contacts in the fob. It appears that at some point in time they may have had a battery leak. I had noticed the spring side looked suspect so I set about using all my old electronics tech skills trying to solve it. Nothing seemed to work. I had to take a step back and check for voltage at the solder joints on the pc board with the battery loaded. Hmm... 0 vdc. But, the battery measured 12.6 vdc. Diving in a bit more I did a continuity check on the contact spring from the board to the contact point for the battery and it was open. What the heck..? Looking at this a bit more I found that as I moved down the coils of the spring I finally got a good reading. It appears that the spring is coated with a conductive material. And, even if you have a nice shiny spot at the contact point, it does not mean that the base material is communicating with the coating. So, I took a piece of solder wick (you know, the braided copper stuff) and made a little jumper from the pc board to the end of the spring and wrapped it around so that the battery would contact the wick and not the spring itself. Voila! Problem solved. While it's not very pretty, it works.

But, since I was not confident that I had a long term fix I went down the path of using the ID number on the fob to find a suitable replacement. The unit I found was for a Nissan - it worked great! The only downside is that the compartment lock/unlock buttons end up being the "trunk open" and remote "horn" buttons respectively. For an investment of only $20 I believe I can live with that. A little label maker work solved that issue. Plus, the new one has an LED on it so I can see if it is transmitting. I wish the old one had that. It would gave been a great help in troubleshooting.

Now I have two working fobs!

Gary

newtexan said:

.. I have only owned my coach for a year so I am still on the steep part of the learning curve (John C. has been a blessing with his website!!)...

Click to expand...

Thanks Gary, that's very kind of you!  We had somebody else use the FCC ID to find replacement key fobs so you're a validation that they are still out there!

Next project is to help Ernie Ekberg replace our carpet/tile hermaphrodite flooring with engineered wood, we're going to be there in February.

ennored said:

I actually looked into converting my compartment doors to power a long time ago.

I found three hurdles:

- My handles don't have a feature that a solenoid can act (push/pull) on.
- New baggage handles that do allow for solenoids don't have the same shape as my existing ones, requiring some sort of trim plate or painting.
- New handles are like $50 each. For eight of nine doors. Plus the cost of solenoids.

Now that I could integrate them into my keyless system maybe I'll take another look. Looking doesn't cost anything...

Click to expand...

How about using solenoid deadbolts instead?

tri-mark has a retro kit  but have to buy the conversion harness frm winnebago  part # 176356-01-000 $100.00 the rest from tri-Mark about another 300. . It took me about 15 minutes to exchange just plug an play

Welcome!

I saw a post about this on the Remotes Unlimited website.  It basically said that there was an SCS/Frigette remote with FCC ID G571TX318 on the back that was used with Honda dealer-installed alarm systems.  That remote has also been discontinued for some time, but they do have an aftermarket replacement remote for the original part.  They also say that many older remotes can be cloned if they still produce any signal at all.  I think you will be able to see their full post at the following link:
http://www.remotesunlimited.com/blog/?p=1928

Thanks for the info and welcome aboard.

Is it only me or is anyone else having a hard time getting used to the button position and logic?

To me....
Left is Unlock, Right is Lock
Up is unlock, Down is lock... Just like a door

Not on this FOB.. Everything is backwards

Jeff - are you talking about the TriMark fobs?

The one from Lichsten with the Winnebago logo on it

I have the Winnebago logo TriMark key fob - I always have to look at the fob to figure where to press.

John Canfield said:

I have the Winnebago logo TriMark key fob - I always have to look at the fob to figure where to press.

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whoever designed that needs to be punched square in the nose...

I think I'm gonna put a dimple in the lock buttons with a soldering iron. Maybe that will help

Just my luck... It's silicone and rest resistant at 700 degrees