I have a 2001 Minnie Winnie E-350 Triton V 10 with only 21K miles on it. I recently drove it from San Diego to Austin TX. Near the Arizona Boarder, the engine starter to lose power around 60 mph and If I tried to go up a hill I would have to take my foot off the pedal because it felt like the power was reduced or gone to down shift. I could not go over 50 miles an hour, when I pulled over and shut off the engine for about 15 min it would run great again for about 100 miles and then do the same thing all over again. I tried seafoam and it seemed to work temporarily. Now the check engine light is on and I have three error codes P1131, P1151, P0174. From 2006 to 2010 the RV was only moved about one mile every week. It also sat for about 8 months at one time. Before My trip I had The Oil Changed and the Breaks serviced. Nothing has ever been done to the Fuel system. The problem seems to be getting worse but it is still very sporatic, If I drive in town under 60mph it drives perfect. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
2001 Minnie Winnie E-350 Triton V 10 Loses Power only 21K miles
- Thread starter amrv
- Start date
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geodrake
Moderator Emeritus
Check the air filter.
thank you for the responce. Sorry I didn't mention I changed the air filter as well. I had a tech tell me it could be a lean or rich fuel mixture from the O2 sensor. or the elevation increase and then sudden drop from going over the mountains in CA, may need to re program the computer.
Molaker
Well-known member
Google the codes all at once - P1131 P1151 P0174 Looks like it may be a low vacuum problem.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
If you Google the error codes you will find lots of info on possible causes. Malfunctioning sensors or extreme lean air/fuel ratio condition are the basics. A bad O2 sensor would be an easy first guess, but there are other possibilities.
mike eddleman
Well-known member
Did you replace the fuel filter as well? My Bounder with a V-10 ran like crap at 60 and above and the fuel filter was stopping up from using regular unleaded gas. Mine is a five dollar filter and only takes about 2 minuets to change so I change it every time I change the oil.
Ernie n Tara
Well-known member
Hi,
Voice of experience here! check that the MAF sensor is not dirty or the filter enclosure not completely shut (so it leaks air above the sensor). I had a similar problem after having a wet air cleaner replaced. First, the MAF sensor got water on it and stopped working right; cleaned it with Carb. Cleaner (not the best for this, but I was on the road and it worked!) and it went back to working and has for about 25K miles since. (I've forgotten the codes, but they reduced to lean on both banks)
I did fail to get the air cleaner back together correctly once and it caused a similar problem.
Note that early models of this air cleaner were prone to ingest water when driven in driving rain. Ford actually came out with a kit to correct the problem.
Hope this helps,
Ernie
Voice of experience here! check that the MAF sensor is not dirty or the filter enclosure not completely shut (so it leaks air above the sensor). I had a similar problem after having a wet air cleaner replaced. First, the MAF sensor got water on it and stopped working right; cleaned it with Carb. Cleaner (not the best for this, but I was on the road and it worked!) and it went back to working and has for about 25K miles since. (I've forgotten the codes, but they reduced to lean on both banks)
I did fail to get the air cleaner back together correctly once and it caused a similar problem.
Note that early models of this air cleaner were prone to ingest water when driven in driving rain. Ford actually came out with a kit to correct the problem.
Hope this helps,
Ernie
Just an update:
I still have the problem
.. I have done a lot of research and have concluded it is one of the following: "and this is the order I will attempt to fix them in:
1. Dirty MAF ( remove and clean) and check for vacuum leaks
2. Replace fuel filter
3. Replace O2 sensors
4. Replace fuel pump
Also in researching I found that if you drive with the throttle wide open at a lower elevation there is a chance the OBC could remember this and the next time you demand power in a different elevation it could act up. I had the On board Computer reset back in Dec of last year. It is still a mystery to me that I can drive about 100 miles with no issues at all but sometime soon after that on the HWY I will have these issues again. My check engine light is on again. and the same codes are coming up.
I still have the problem
.. I have done a lot of research and have concluded it is one of the following: "and this is the order I will attempt to fix them in:1. Dirty MAF ( remove and clean) and check for vacuum leaks
2. Replace fuel filter
3. Replace O2 sensors
4. Replace fuel pump
Also in researching I found that if you drive with the throttle wide open at a lower elevation there is a chance the OBC could remember this and the next time you demand power in a different elevation it could act up. I had the On board Computer reset back in Dec of last year. It is still a mystery to me that I can drive about 100 miles with no issues at all but sometime soon after that on the HWY I will have these issues again. My check engine light is on again. and the same codes are coming up.
PJ Stough
Well-known member
Does the vehicle have a catalytic converter?
Paul
Paul
Problem fixed!!!!! :-[ ;D
Found the problem!!
If your rig sits for a long time, 6 or more months with very little movement the gas will change chemical structure. Mine sat for several months at a time and was only driven maybe 5 miles a month. Same tank of gas for almost one year with no additive. " STA-BIL fuel treatment is what I will use from now on".. When I decided to take it on a trip it drove great for about 100 miles after that the contamination in the gas started to effect the fuel filter, " which in my opinion is extremely small. I did not know how important it is to keep a fuel stabilizer in the tank, now I do. .. As stated in the above posts.. " thanx Mike", I would highly recommend changing the air filter and fuel filter FIRST if having power issues. It cost me 40 bucks to change the air and fuel filter and about an hour of my time. Luckily I caught this, it could have been $$$$ big bucks if I took it some where to get fixed. Ford wanted $135.00 an hour just to look at it.
;DFound the problem!!
If your rig sits for a long time, 6 or more months with very little movement the gas will change chemical structure. Mine sat for several months at a time and was only driven maybe 5 miles a month. Same tank of gas for almost one year with no additive. " STA-BIL fuel treatment is what I will use from now on".. When I decided to take it on a trip it drove great for about 100 miles after that the contamination in the gas started to effect the fuel filter, " which in my opinion is extremely small. I did not know how important it is to keep a fuel stabilizer in the tank, now I do.
.. As stated in the above posts.. " thanx Mike", I would highly recommend changing the air filter and fuel filter FIRST if having power issues. It cost me 40 bucks to change the air and fuel filter and about an hour of my time. Luckily I caught this, it could have been $$$$ big bucks if I took it some where to get fixed. Ford wanted $135.00 an hour just to look at it.
