Kwikee electric step frozen in the out position

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Wagonmaster2

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Posts
498
Location
Northcentral Oklahoma
My Kwikee step on my 2004 Meridian has locked up in the out position, which it did about 3 years ago and I fixed it that time by removing the motor and  turning it partially over then re-installing it, but this time I'd like to just replace the motor.  I've read that different year Kwikees used different year Ford or Lincoln drivers door electric window lifters, but seems to be a lot of discussion over which year fits which Kwikee.

Anyone replaced the step motor on their 2004 Winnebago, or around that year, and remember what motor they might have used?  Understand the auto lifters are usually a couple hundred dollars cheaper than what Kwikee would sell.

Allen
 
Take the motor off and show it to your local auto parts dealer, they should be able to match it or at least identify it.
 
Here are some possible sources for inexpensive replacements  I have saved from various threads over the years.

"  1) AM Equipment 402 E. Hazel St Jefferson, OR 97352, (541) 327-1546 the motor is $29 plus $7 shipping.

2) www.rvdealership.com that sells a repair parts kit made specifically for these units - includes gears.

3) Replacement step motor at AutoZone. It's a Siemens "Window Lift Motor", part number WL43003.

4) Autozone. The brand is "Siemens"
The ID tag lists the following numbers:
59720-20
121899

5) A 1986-1995 Ford Taurus left front window lift motor matched my motor. NAPA part # BK655-1395 $63.99 I ordered my motor from Auto-Zone Manufactured by Dorman part# 742-206. This has a lifetime Warranty and was $49.99.  "

Also these guys rebuild the older non-encapsulated circuit boards: HERE
 
On my 2006 Voyage the best price I found was our local Winnebago dealer in Mississippi. Around 87 dollars. Yeah I was surprised too. Art
 
Allen, ours did the same thing when we were out of town. My brother-in-law helped me remove it & we took it to the local Napa & they were able to identify it. And you're right, It's way cheaper than the Kwikee Motor. Ours was on a Dolphin 2006 year model that we have since traded & I let the information on the motor go with the service records, so I can't help with the part #, but do remember it was a Ford lift motor. The folks at the parts store were really helpful & hope they'll get you through this.
 
Thanks for all the help.  Went to the AM Equipment web site and the picture of their 210 Series motor exactly matched mine, right down to every seam and marking on the plastic mount.  Talked to them on the phone to verify all this and they told me by ordering on the Internet I would save 25%, so I got one coming.  $53.71 shipping and all.  Just hope their picture and the techs description is current.

My only thought now is if the motor wasn't the problem is it possible to test the Kwikee control board or do those just have to be sent in for that?  I'm also trying to locate any fuses on my 2004 Meridian 36G.  Looked at Kwikee's wireing diagram and it does show 2 fuses but no idea where they would be.  Isn't it fun hunting for things on these coaches?

Allen
 
Allen, in my 03 I remember having a 6a CB up front in the CB compartment. This CB controls the auto function with the key switch if I remember correct so you will have another to protect the switched circuit by the passenger door also. I can go look at mine if needed.
Have you disconnected the step to verify it moves freely and is not locked mechanically?
 
My step is constantly locking up, it binds up in both positions. looking at reinforcing the gear and arm mechanism to keep it from flexing..have tried other solutions that didn't work for long (rewired manually, rubber stops for end travel) real solution would be an adjustment on control board to overcurrent detection. Has anyone looked into a current adjustment? Sorry, mine is a series 42 and no doubt because of its age much different from yours.
 
Wagonmaster2 said:
SNIP

My only thought now is if the motor wasn't the problem is it possible to test the Kwikee control board or do those just have to be sent in for that?

Allen

If you go HERE  and scroll down to "Step Service Training Manuals" you can download  "Step Training 1 and 2". It has a pretty complete step by step troubleshooting guide. [font=geneva, arial, helvetica, san-serif][font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif][/font][/font][font=geneva, arial, helvetica, san-serif][/font]
 
Clay, your link is incomplete, missing the entire URL.
 
In a camp ground we were once faced with the steps stuck in the up position. My wife has a back & hip problem so when I got back home I did a mod to the system. Before they went to a control module they were just switches to bring the steps up or down. To eliminate my wife being stranded in the MH  again I installed 2 switches to be able to bypass the module in case it ever decided to let us down or keep supplying power to the motor when the steps have reached their end of travel up or down. In one of the photos near the lower foot landing you can see the switch that selects between manual or automatic, The other photo shows the spring loaded center off switch that makes the stairs go up or down if the module should quit. In my wiring schematic for my steps it showed the manual & the automatic wiring as some units did not have the module.
  Yes I know this is a lot to do but being ex military I just like redundancy in systems. It also gives me something to do that keeps me interested in life while I ride on this great planet around the sun once more. That?s what I like about this forum as there are many more nuts just like me and can find answers for just about anything and they really enjoy helping others.  When you have a problem you don?t have to feel you are alone as you can come here. I was just helped by Dean with his great post about the real problem with the heater aid blower motor. Now if I could just talk him into coming down to Mobile Al & show me just how he squeezed into that compartment I would GLADLY hand him all the tools he needs. Art
 

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Decided to replace the motor on the step this evening after I had removed the armature, polished the end where the brushes run, greased all moving parts and put everything back together.  My new motor should be here in 2-3 days so this will insure that I can remember where everything goes besides checking to see if it will work now.  And it did.  Don't know what caused it to start working again but glad it did.  At least I now know (or hope I know) that the motor is what's causing the problem.  Also, got no idea how long this band-aid fix may work.  The last time the step froze up I just repositioned the motor 1/4 turn, put it back together, and it lasted 2-3 years.

It doesn't seem to make any difference how the motor or gears are positioned when re-assembling it, the step will always go to both extremes for the full in/out position.  What makes the motor always run long enough to get the step  to the stops as it extends & retracts.  Does it have something like the bathroom FanTastic vent that will stop the motor automatically when it reaches completely open or closed?

Both times my step froze, it was in the out position which makes it very nice to reach the motor and connections.  Can't imagine trying to remove the motor in the retracted position with the step covering everything up.  Was I just fortunate for it to happen this way or can there be a reason for it doing so?

Appreciate all the help and suggestions.  Can't imagine what I would have done trying to take care of everything on my first DP for 7 years without all the help I've gotten from the Forum.

Allen
 
The steps stop movement when there's enough resistance. They stop when they're fully extended or retracted. They'll also stop when they meet other forms of resistance, i.e. uneven ground, a curb, a tree. Not so much when it's your ankle or foot.

If it ever quits working when it's fully retracted, you can remove the pin that connects the motor linkage to the step, and move the steps out of the way. Be sure to disconnect the power to the steps first and be extremely careful where you position yourself, your hands, fingers, etc. whenever you're working on the steps and there's current present. If activated, the steps might move faster than you.
 
    I tried to fix the old one (Kwikee part # 1101428 by cleaning the comuntator which looked like grease had fallen onto the comuntator from the gears. In about 1 week it failed again.  It looks to me like the brushes may be made up of some bad material that is somehow dirtying the comuntator. Be real careful as Brother Bill  states you can pinch a finger or worse in the scissor arms if you forget to remove power before working on it. The new one has been working for one year so far. See attached photos. Art
 

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Here is the photo showing the comutator. Somehow It did not go threw the fist time.Cleaning it only seems to last about 1 week . Art
 
This time I will attach the photo! Sure HATE getting OLD. Can you believe I used to fly planes! Art
 

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Just curious, are you sure you got the brushes back in the same position as original? Some hit off center and if reversed in holder they will have to break in again to the curve. Off center can be just the slop in the holder.
 
wow. Those motors look just like the motor in my power window. I thought y'all were rigging something up. They really loook like direct replacements.....
 
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