Intelli power converter Noise

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tripleEtravel

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Aug 27, 2011
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    I  purchased and installed the PD942C in my travel trailer. When connected, it makes a hissing noise. If I turn on a light, the noise goes away, but returns when there is no load on the battery. If I disconnect from the battery, the sound goes away. Is this sound normal, or is there something in the circuitry that would cause this?
    Help!
 
Unfortunately, it is normal.

I went through several intellic-power converters (their customer service is VERY nice) and they replaced 1 after another. Some were a different pitch, but all made some no-load noise. It's inherent in the design of the converters.

Without going into the specifics, it has to do with the operating frequency of the electronics.

Of you have shore power, simply get a low power draw item running, it will cease, just like when you turn on a light.

Rick
 
No problem...it was quite annoying initially as I bought the replacement kit to quiet down the old converter. Though, it is much quieter than the old loud humming version it replaced.

Rick
 
There are not too many, properly operating, electronic components likely to be found in a converter that can "make noise" regardless of the frequencies involved.  Most common, among the few, would be the transformers.  Loose laminations in the transformer cores are the usual culprits.  Loose or flimsy mechanical component mountings can also allow vibrations. 

If the noise truly cannot be tolerated, you can always try to (using a plastic probe or the eraser end of a pencil) locate the vibration(s) by pressing on all the various components.  Sometimes a spot or two of finger nail polish, or lacquer, strategically placed can help dampen the vibrations.
 
The new converters (intellipower, connecticut electric etc)

recitfy the 120vac to dc right off the bat.

then they drive 2 channel inverters but at about 4Khz, and in the meantime, they have 50/60 and 100/120 hz chokes everywhere.

then use a transformer to step the modified wave ac down to a lower voltage (HZ(1) = HZ(2)) then rectify that and regulate it etc etc.

this eliminates the 50/60hz hummmmmmmmm the older stacked plate designs had and since a rectifier has a little bit of ripple, the effect of the ripple is the product of the voltage wave and current wave, and at 60hz is quite large, at 4000hz, its much smaller, making it pretty clean DC without any output caps

the downside is a lot of internal parts many shops cannot replace, relying on inverters for 20 some years, and killer dc voltages if a noob ever pokes around inside (id rather be whacked with 240vac than 60vdc....)

now if we can just get manus to give EVERY electronic device an optional 12vdc input port, rather than paying the $100 premium to get them from truckstops...
 
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