1995 Brave - generator
- Thread starter ccbigs
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
John Canfield
Site Team
Hi - welcome!
I'm only familiar (somewhat) with the later model Onan QuietDiesels, but stand by here...
I'm only familiar (somewhat) with the later model Onan QuietDiesels, but stand by here...
micd111
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2010
- Posts
- 65
In our 1994 Brave there is a switch that you can't see that once was shut off when the generator was serviced. I think it may have been a fuse or circuit breaker. Unfortunately I don't have the RV here (it is on the storage lot) so my description of where to look for it may not be exact. On the right side of the generator where the on/off switch is run your hand back on that panel and there is a sort of hidden switch back there.
Another problem that occasionally happens to us is that we have a sticky on/off switch on the generator itself. If it is turned off at the generator the switch stays in the off position and you can't turn it on from inside as when you try it immediately turns itself off again. To fix it we just have to go out and recenter the rocker switch from the outside and all is fine again.
Forgot to mention that he has to be sure to have more than a 1/4 tank of fuel for the generator to start.
Michelle
Another problem that occasionally happens to us is that we have a sticky on/off switch on the generator itself. If it is turned off at the generator the switch stays in the off position and you can't turn it on from inside as when you try it immediately turns itself off again. To fix it we just have to go out and recenter the rocker switch from the outside and all is fine again.
Forgot to mention that he has to be sure to have more than a 1/4 tank of fuel for the generator to start.
Michelle
alleycat
Well-known member
I have a 1995 Brave with a Onan 6.5 kw, model "NHE"generator. I would assume that yours would be the same as mine. I am not aware of any switch to flip before the genrator will start. You stated it spins, but there is no spark. If yours is also a "NHE" model, then this generator is equipped with an ignition system that contains points, condenser, ignition coil, spark plugs and wires. Either one of these components could be the culprit. I would first test the coil as this is the simplest point to start from and may be the reason there is no spark. The simplest test is to remove a spark plug, attach the wire back to it and ground it against bare metal, then crank the engine. If the spark is weak or non existent, then the coil is more than likely the problem.
No need to test the other components at this stage until you get fire from the coil. Once that problem is solved, then you can move to the other components such as point condition and gap, cracked wires or bad condenser.
You can also do direct testing with an ohmmeter
To test a coil directly, remove all the wires connected to it. For easier access to the terminals, the coil can be removed from the engine.
1. Inspect terminals for corrosion, looseness, cracks, dents or other damage. Look fo revidence of electrical leakage around high tension terminals
(indicated by carbon runners). Damaged or leaking coil should be replaced.
2. Clean the outside of the coil with a cloth dampened in parts cleaning solvent.
3. To measure resistance in the primary circuit, connect one ohmmeter lead to the positive (+)terminal and the other to the negative (-) terminal
on the coil. The resistance should be between 3.87 and 4.73 ohms. A high resistance value indicates an open circuit or poor connection inside
the coil, and the coil should be replaced.
4. To measure resistance in the secondary circuit, connect the ohmmeter leads to the two high tension
terminals. The resistance measured should be between 12,600 and 15,400 ohms. A lower resistance value indicates a shorted secondary winding. A high resistance value indicates the coil has excessive internal resistance or an open circuit. Trust this helps and keep us informed.
No need to test the other components at this stage until you get fire from the coil. Once that problem is solved, then you can move to the other components such as point condition and gap, cracked wires or bad condenser.
You can also do direct testing with an ohmmeter
To test a coil directly, remove all the wires connected to it. For easier access to the terminals, the coil can be removed from the engine.
1. Inspect terminals for corrosion, looseness, cracks, dents or other damage. Look fo revidence of electrical leakage around high tension terminals
(indicated by carbon runners). Damaged or leaking coil should be replaced.
2. Clean the outside of the coil with a cloth dampened in parts cleaning solvent.
3. To measure resistance in the primary circuit, connect one ohmmeter lead to the positive (+)terminal and the other to the negative (-) terminal
on the coil. The resistance should be between 3.87 and 4.73 ohms. A high resistance value indicates an open circuit or poor connection inside
the coil, and the coil should be replaced.
4. To measure resistance in the secondary circuit, connect the ohmmeter leads to the two high tension
terminals. The resistance measured should be between 12,600 and 15,400 ohms. A lower resistance value indicates a shorted secondary winding. A high resistance value indicates the coil has excessive internal resistance or an open circuit. Trust this helps and keep us informed.
Mavarick
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2011
- Posts
- 2,027
If you have a functioning low oil psi shutdown make sure you are getting +12v to the positive side of the coil when cranking. If not, your start bypass circuit is bad. This circuit allows the genset to run until oil psi builds up.
Seon
Well-known member
I don't know if your particular genset has points and condenser but on my '84 Onan genset that just died one day while running, it was the condenser.
Hi
I have an "emerald" on the 1993 Odessa DP which I run over here in the UK. Mine would attempt to to start (Crank) but would stop on release of the Start switch. It turned out to be the Control module!!! ($200-00).
Try this link http://www.flightsystems.com/ Down load the "trouble shooting" pdf; and with a good DIGITAL multimeter you may be able to eliminate the potential faults on by one.
Best of (british) Luck!
Pete (yorkie)
I have an "emerald" on the 1993 Odessa DP which I run over here in the UK. Mine would attempt to to start (Crank) but would stop on release of the Start switch. It turned out to be the Control module!!! ($200-00).
Try this link http://www.flightsystems.com/ Down load the "trouble shooting" pdf; and with a good DIGITAL multimeter you may be able to eliminate the potential faults on by one.
Best of (british) Luck!
Pete (yorkie)
John Canfield
Site Team
Hi Pete - welcome aboard!
