Just bought my first trailer, 07 keystone challenger. Brought home hooked to my power and lights dim and power going off. After about 1/2 hour if resetting breakers realized outlet needed ground and neutral. I added a neutral and all power is good now but microwave won't come on now and it was during the elec. issues. Fridge will not go to a/c. Mix. Does have 120 at outlet. Is it possible without the neutral will it send 220 to my outlets? If it did is there a fuse in mic. Hopefully that I could have blown.all outlets test ok now,both a/c units work, furnace works on gas as does stove. I have not confirmed fridge on gas yet, or hit water tank on either.all help appreciated. Tom
Elec. with no neutral issues
- Thread starter dajudge
- Start date
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50 amp that had no neutral.I had 240 across both hots at RV breaker and 120 from 1 side to neutral but only 4 volts from second hot to neutral. And 160 from ground to either side. This is what led me to think plug was not wired correctly.cant figure out how to remove mic. No screws in cabinet above. Probably gonna be a expensive lesson on RV power I figure.i will try to figure out how to remove mic. To see if it's fused or repairable, hope the fridge. Is not damaged as far as a/c operations. Tom
You have almost certainly damaged some appliances. An RV 50A outlet needs 2 hot leads, 1 neutral and 1 ground, but you know that now. You will need to test each non-working device to determine what was damaged. Hopefully the microwave is just a fuse.
Jim Godward
Well-known member
Most electronics today have internal fuses and a surge protector. Look for both and replace if damaged.
Lou Schneider
Site Team
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- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,256
The refrigerator uses 12 volts for it's control board, so as long as it was on gas it should be OK.
If it was switched to electric you may have burned out the 120 volt heating element.
If it was switched to electric you may have burned out the 120 volt heating element.
LPG Water Heaters with 120 VAC Elements are optional, so you may or may not have a 120 VAC WH.
In all likelihood any 120 VAC Heater Elements would win an open 50A neutral tug of war and not be damaged.
RV furnaces run on LPG with 12 VDC power ONLY.
In all likelihood any 120 VAC Heater Elements would win an open 50A neutral tug of war and not be damaged.
RV furnaces run on LPG with 12 VDC power ONLY.
Well apon further inspection, I pulled cover off of micro. And it had a fuse right where power comes into board, took it out and it ohmed out to be good.seen no burns on board all looked good but still no power. Fridge seems to work on gas only. Hot water heater fired up I see pilot is lit but after a hour still no hit water. What's y'all thoughts on the 3 items??? Thanks
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
You need to make some basic checks on the 120v power, e.g. voltage at the outlets. Anything that was plugged to the 120v could be damaged if the circuit went to 175-200. For example, the fridge likely has a sensor circuit to detect if 120v is available (Auto mode) and a relay to switch the power on/off as needed. The microwave probably has a circuit that converts the source 120v to low voltage DC for the circuit board and control panel and that could be damaged by voltage even though the amps didn't go high enough to blow the fuse. The fuse may be large enough to supply power to the magnetron anyway (the thing that makes micro waves). Water heater is mostly 12v, but may have a 120v thermostat or a relay for the 120v controlled by a 12v-powered board. Furnace, though is strictly 12v.
Check your converter/charger. They are very sensitive to source voltage and it could be fried too. If so, your only 12v power wold be what is left in the batteries.
Check your converter/charger. They are very sensitive to source voltage and it could be fried too. If so, your only 12v power wold be what is left in the batteries.
