Ok guys how hard to get around

    Carolyn, at one point a few years ago I heard a hiss while the coach was running.  I went and looked, and one of the air lines to the front brakes had severed.  I thought that once I got back in, there wouldn't be enough air to work the brakes, and to get me to a repair shop.  When I started it up, the air gauge showed full pressure, and I really didn't notice a lot of difference in the braking.  The good news was that the mechanic put an in line coupling on, charged me around $10, and told me to buy a couple of spare couplings at the NAPA store.
    The biggest reason for not pumping or difference with air brakes is that the work so much better.  I still pump mine when required, but usually stady pressure is better, and my rig (and likely yours) has ABS, so the system pumps it for you when required.

Ed

I read about that too, and it says it just stops you period, that doesn't seem to safe.

I was pushing on them to see what it felt like if they ran out of air and it got to 60 but it recovered almost immediately, it was sitting in the yard when I did so. 

You have to push on them, hubby said harder then a regular brakes.  So many things to remember.

All I can say is I was scared to death of the class C, it was fine, scared to death of the class A and it was fine, worried about the toad, heck that's no problem.  Hubby said I'm just worrying to much and I'm sure he is right.

He said when he turns it loose, (that I've got to see) I should drive back and forth on 242 to 59 like I did the others till I feel comfortable with it.  It's a good road to get comfy with things like this. Then hook up the toad and get comfortable with it.  I know I can do it. It's just the doing and getting in that comfort zone.  If I thought I couldn't we wouldn't have bought it.  I think its him worrying more then me. He wanted a newer last time and we would have preferred a newer diesel too but they are soooo expensive we didn't want to drop the kind of money for a new one till we were sure.  We still won't buy new, just a newer one, and who knows this old one might be reliable enough not to have to get another.  But at this point I'm not going to say this is the last, I've already eaten my words several times so far. :-[ I sure do like it even without any slides.  He said just for her and I it will be quite comfy and it is.  It has a nice big bathroom and that's sure nice with a tub, shower and ceramic tile floor.

Carolyn, the air brakes are wonderful!  When we were thinking of getting our first one, the Monaco guy took us for a test drive.  After checking to be sure there was no one behind us and being sure we were all belted in, he pulled the air brake and we were amazed at how quickly we came to a complete stop.  Also, do you know if you have either a Pac Brake or a Jake Brake?  I don't know when they started putting them on coaches, but they are better than wonderful!  Let us know and we'll help you learn how to use it.

ArdraF

Carolyn,

Here is a list of Driving Tips Ardra and I wrote up back in 2006 after taking the RV Driving School 2-day class.  Hope they help.

Best personal regards,
JerryF & ArdraF too
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                                                              RV DRIVING TIPS

Stay in the center of your lane.  One idea is to put two 1/4 inch wide strips of white tape about six inches apart on the defroster vent at the bottom of the windshield so you can quickly glance down to see them without moving your vision very far from the road ahead.  Place the tape so your MH is in the center of the lane when the painted center line in the road is between the two strips of white tape.  You may not use them all the time but when you need a quick check of your position in the lane as in heavy traffic or especially in a narrow construction zone the tape marks will tell you if you're centered in your lane faster than checking your mirrors.  Another idea is to imagine your right foot on the dark streak (oil deposits) in the middle of most lanes where the tires don't run.

On the highway look 15-20 seconds ahead (15 seconds is a quarter of a mile at 60 MPH).  Stay 4 seconds behind the vehicle in front of you.  The California Class C drivers handbook says to add 1 second more if you are driving over 40 MPH so maybe 5 seconds behind the vehicle in front of you is better.  To determine this watch the vehicle in front of you pass a post or sign and count the number of seconds until you reach the same post or sign.

In city traffic look ahead one block.

If a vehicle is stopped alongside the road move over a lane to give them room.

Cover the brake if a traffic light is "stale."  Stale means that you do NOT know how long it has been green.

Cover the brake if you feel something is wrong.  Covering the brake is placing your foot on top of the brake pedal but not pushing it down.

Plan ahead, notice roadside signs, changing traffic patterns, traffic slowing, lane merges or splits, turning lanes and so forth.

When there are 2 left turn lanes for turning, use the right-most lane for your left turn.

When there are 2 right turn lanes for turning, use the left-most lane for your right turn,

Left Turn when there are two lanes on your side of the highways center lane:  Drive until the front wheels are even with the center line, turn it full & fast, and go slow.  If there is only one lane on the highway you are turning onto, drive until the front wheels are even with the curb (or an approximate curb if none exists) and than turn it full and fast. 

Right Turn when there are two lanes on your side of the highways center lane:  Drive until the front wheels are even with the curb or left side of a parked car, turn it full & fast, go slow.  If there is only one lane on the highway you are turning onto, drive until the front wheels are even with the curb (or an approximate curb if none exists) and than turn it full and fast.

Mirrors:  Scan your mirrors (both flat and convex).  Look for shadows.  For perspective, adjust mirror so about 1-inch of your coach shows in the mirror. 

As you pass another vehicle, when you can see the passed vehicle's front tires on the road surface in your flat mirror you can safely move back into your lane even if you're towing a car.  Also, you can leave your back up camera on to help judging when to pull back into your lane.

As you approach freeway ramps look (glance) 3 times.  (1) Check the exit lane as you approach.  (2) Look at the top of the overpass.  (3) Check the incoming merge lane as soon as you can for entering vehicles.

Backing & Turning: Drive close to the edge of the road or curb.  Then back until the rear wheel is where you want to start the turn, turn it full & fast, and go slow.  If you're not making it, stop, turn the wheel in the other direction and pull forward as in a Y turn.  Then turn the wheel back the other way and continue backing.  You may want to tip your flat mirror or mirrors down so you can see better.

Backing straight:  Choose a high easy-to-see object in your flat mirror (left mirror is best for this) and keep it in the same location in the mirror as you back up.  This will keep you going strait.

Campground maneuvering:  Watch for tail swing, overhead branches, and look down low for short tree stumps, large rocks and electrical/water hookups.  You may want to tip your flat mirror down so you can see better.

Streaks of rust coming from the lug nuts may be a sign of loose lug nuts.

Tom Jones,

If you want to put our Driving Tips list in the library section CHECKLISTS it's okay with us.  Please do.

JerryF

I will use those.  I'm guessing it will be hubbies next trip home before I get it out, we shall see.  It's raining today pretty good, and Lordie we are not complaining.  We have only had a couple of half inch rains this year and we need it badly.  Hubby is out there doing something, I didn't even ask!  I went out and had him take the front drapes down.  The only curtains are the privacy ones in the front and a velcroed strip in the kitchen.  I washed it and it washed beautifully same fabric, we used to make such quality beautiful fabric in this country.  So I'm washing the big lined ones one at a time in my front loader.  It's lined with the sort of rubber weather fabric, I bet it washs well.  If not, can get some made.  Might be to heavy for even my big machine to sew on.  There was one hanger missing and I found a package of them by the window in the motorhome.  I need to sew it in and I think they will be good to go.  Hubby suggested turning them around so the sunfaded edge is folded up in the back, will only see it when they are extended.  I think that will work.


I can't believe it but in looking under and around everything I think that may be the original carpet.  If not someone put it in closets, ran it up the wall edges and all.  Put it around the bases of the chairs. It is expensive carpet for sure.

By the way, hubby has a CDL, he has driven semis only on the job some time back but he has it.  And he had been a heavy equipment operator for many a year. For many years he was a long boom crane operator when he worked out of the union up north. He worked in refineries and power plants.  For the last 20 he has been a civil manager but he still knows quite a lot about engines.  I doubt there is much he can't fix, he might be hamstringed if something is extremely heavy and requires equipment for that but we don't anticipate anything like that. I know he feels pretty comfortable with this and anything he might have to do or he wouldn't have bought it.  He is not shy about his limitations.

Well I can tell you that when I did my research and test drove some that the diesel was easier to drive over all.  Felt better.  But my budget did not allow it.

Longer did not seem to bother me but I think at first it might feel odd because you are not used to it.

I went with a gas one as my starter coach but after only about a year of ownership my wife and I decided we are going to get the biggest one we can next time and I will learn how to drive it properly if size is an issue.  With two dogs and a child we found we like lots of space on those rainy days when you are forced inside.  Anyone full timing it I would recommend the same if you have the means.  We like everything about our 2002 class A but I am already dreaming of the upgrade in the future.  I think instead of trading this one in on a new model it will be shuffled up to our future land in TN and I will buy a new one.  Sadly by the time I get ready to sell this one it wont be worth a whole lot and it is in great shape.  No reason to give it away. 

So far Tom is happy with what he sees.  We definitely need to do the roof and ordered the coating today and replace the skylights, they are very very iffy.  The EPDM coating was $615.00, its especially to put on these kinds of roofs.  Seems to be pretty easy to put on, just need to get it really clean first.  It also said take off everything including the air conditioners.  The front AC is new or newer, the back we are pretty sure we will replace.  Even if it works which it did, it makes an awful racket and I'm pretty sure its original.  But you can see where the old bigger ac was in the front, it left a mark on the ceiling, wonder how I can clean that off?

The guy didn't say when it was serviced and we found nothing there.  But Tom just got through draining the generator of oil and antifreeze.  He replaced the air filter and oil filter.  He is going to pressure wash both radiators just to be safe but they don't look dirty.  He said the antifreeze might have been changed recently but he wouldn't have been satisfied even if it had!

He got a belt for the air conditioner and needs to put it on yet.  He is out there grinning so far so I know he is happy with it.  I cannot rush him, he is a very methodical person, just drives me nuts.  Of course I'm an Aries and he is a Leo, we are capatible signs but sometimes I wonder how.  His slow easy balances my impetuous lets just do it side!

We are both very impressed, the thing is all undercoated and we only see some rust by the drains for the tanks and by the water input area.  It's in remarkable good conditon from what we see.


The front curtains washed beautifully.  I need to rehem the ends, the thread on things like that always comes loose, but the fabric looks very good, color is still rich.

He hasn't changed the engine oil and drained the antifreeze and stuff yet, will do that next.  He said I need to finish the genny first.

I can see you grinning all the way from here!

I was thinking the same thing, Gary!  Methinks they're going to like the Eagle when it's fixed up to Tom's satisfaction. 

ArdraF

You all know this stuff is expensive, but here's some prices for those anticipating buying a diesel and this is do it yourself.

1 case of 6 of Rotella oil $75.88
Air filter Napa Gold, likely could get cheaper but they are important $23.27
Fuel Filter  $40.06
V Belt  $13.19
Oil Filter $3.62
Antifreeze 6 quarts $74.94

Diesel fuel conditioner  $8.08
Diesel cond/clnr $8.87

Total $269.22 just for this.  Yep they are expensive to maintain and we knew that.  Wonder what it would cost to have it done?

I remember when I bought my Lincoln truck new.  We told them start out with Mobil One, we use it in all our vehicles.  The tag said they did, but he wanted to make sure so about 2000 miles he changed the oil and filter!  He said wouldn't hurt anyway, any shavings in the engine would be caught and removed.  So like I said if there were a tag I'm not positive he would not change it anyway.  Funny guy.

Looks like he got quite a bit off for a cash sale

I can sure remember when many of these items were lots cheaper.

Carolyn

Tell Tom to get his parts directly from Spartan. It's prices are consistently excellent and, if you belong to FMCA and join the Spartan Chassis Owners' Chapter you get free shipping. Check it out at:
https://www.rvchassisparts.com/Welcome.asp

Thank You, I just did.

I want to replace the fire/soundproofing insulation under the bed over the diesel motor.  I'm not sure what it is, but being so old it looks crumbly to me.  Want to do the same to the generator door in front, that stuff is drooping. Also want to check and test the seal around the board that fastens down over the motor to make sure its not leaking fumes.

I have read Roxul is good but how is it fastened?  I wouldn't think with adhesive and it shows it drooping down too.  There is a hard board type but that would likely make that board under there even heavier to lift up.

So what can we use? What do manufacturers use? It's not loud now but when we scrape this stuff off I'm sure it will be.  We want as good as or better then what is there.

Tom said he had heard of a spray on, I'm searching on the net, anyone know offhand?

DD will probably be back there a lot and also sleep back there, I'm very uncomfortable with the motor under the bed, thought that was really strange but not sure where else it would be. Just want to give us all the headway we can get to get out of the thing in the event of fire.

Carolyn,

We've been gone for a few days and I see you got an American Eagle.  Congratulations.  American coaches are nice units and yours looks like it's in very good condition.  Tom's enjoying fixing those things, and that's just part of the excitement of getting a nice high quality used coach.  When he gets through you'll have a top notch coach.

We took our American Dream out for it's maiden voyage this past weekend and we loved it.  It drives beautifully on the highway, pulled our Toyota Prius with ease, was very comfortable to live in and we found very few items that need to be fixed.  I was able to maneuver it very well and didn't have any trouble getting in and out of wherever we needed to go.  When we pulled into the campground, the guy in the spot next to us came over and introduced himself and wanted to look at the MH.  He said that it was one of the best looking ones he had seen and couldn't believe it was 11 years old.  Of course I was proud and glad to show it off.

Again, congratulations.  You're gonna love your new coach.

Dan

Well ours is OLDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD.

I'm still looking for the fireproofing and noise stuff.  I found something called FireMaster 607 Blanket.  It's by Thermal Ceramics, will have to see if or what we can get and how much.

I bet this stuff is expensive.

Noone else has any ideas?  I'm sure its not replaced often.  We could probably leave what is there but we think it looks horrible and I think something newer would be safer anyway. 

After reading about all the motorhome fires, I want to slow any possible fire down as much as possible.

This stuff holds up to an hour against jet fires. 4 hours against hydrocarbon fies.  I think it said protects up to 2100 degrees. 

Has 0 flame spread, 0 fuel contributed, 0 smoke developing.

Not sure how attached or PRICE!

Carolyn,

I can't help you about the stuff you're looking for to replace that seal, but our diesel engine was under the bed in our previous motorhome.  As long as you have a good seal there shouldn't be a problem with fumes.  Some early As that weren't as well put together as the Eagle had no seal.  You simply lifted up the board on which the bed rested and looked at the engine.  I occasionally saw or heard of complaints about fumes and/or heat with those lower end models.  By contrast, on our previous engine we lifted the bed and looked at a carpet-covered board (insulation) that was screwed down onto the the box around the engine compartment.  When unscrewed that cover had a good ring of seal all the way around it.  We never had any problems with either fumes or heat.  But, as Jerry just commented, engine fumes normally aren't an issue when you're parked and sleeeping because the engine isn't running anyway.  If Sue Anne sleeps back there while you're driving, then you'll want a good seal for sure.  I've never found rear bed sleeping to be very comfortable because the bed is at or behind the rear wheels and it's too bouncy.  Nevertheless, you should have a CO detector somewhere just to be on the safe side.

ArdraF

I tried sleeping in a rear bed during a straight through trip from Gaffney SC to Belen NM, and it was like trying to sleep in an active pancake flipper! When moving, the better place to sleep is between the axles.

I have a rear diesel where the cover is well bolted down. Don't make it too hard to get in there as one day Tom will want to get in there to clean the back side of the radiator or do other work.  You will love the space and quiet drive without the engine right under you. \