Dash disconnect battery switch Help!

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SuperChieftian

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Just to get an understanding.. I have an 88 Winnebago SuperChieftian. The purpose of the  2 dash switches that connect, disconnect the house batteries  is so that you charge them up while your driving down the highway... Yes or no?... If yes good but,,,, they also connect to my generator switch next to them.. I'm having issues with switch connecting right now ,, they don't work and I'm trying to  find where it's fused at but, but nobody can tell me.  The generator does start from outside, so yes or no they will charge batteries while were dry camping? We only dry camp so it's important to fix the switches on dash... Help. I'm running out of time.. Thanks :(
 
The switches shouldn't have much to do with charging your batteries while dry camping. The generator charges the batteries via the converter by converting the 120 VAC from the generator or shore power to provide the coach 12 VDC and to charge the batteries. The battery switch is mostly for maintenance purposes, to shut off all appliances when fueling and to keep the parasitic drains from running down the batteries while in storage. You definitely want to have the alternator charge your batteries while driving to arrive with a full charge. Most converters only put out 45 amps and are also powering other things in the coach while charging the batteries. Your engine alternator probably provides between 90 and 140 amps depending on engine and charging system.
 
Super, not familiar with your rig but these are the usual options. You have two switches on the dash for batteries, one is a normal two way switch that engages or disengages the house batteries. You would turn off this switch when you leave the coach in storage to save the house batteries from draining because of phantom loads like radio memory, etc. When you are in the coach driving this switch would be left ?on? and the engine alternator will charge the house batteries as well as the chassis batteries.
The second switch is a momentary switch and is usually marked MOM. This means you have to hold it down to engage it and when released it goes back to neutral or a disconnected position. This switch connects the house batteries to the chassis batteries momentarily to allow you a ?jump? if your chassis battery is dead. It is not meant to be used any other time. Your batteries will charge off the alternator normally without the use of this switch so you don?t have to get creative.
The inside generator switch will work when your normal two way switch is ?on? connecting the house batteries and the genset will charge the house batteries when running. It does this as John said above by energizing your converter/charger. If you want to also charge the chassis battery with the genset you can use a regular charger plugged in or purchase the Trik-L-Charger that Winnie is using on the newer models. Hope this answers your question.
http://www.lslproducts.com/TLSPage.html
 
Yes it does thank you, but my switches aren't working at all which keeps me from using my 3rd dash switch which is my generator switch. When these 2 switches are off I can't start my generator from inside. Is there a fuse that powers these switches? What am I looking at for troubleshooting these?  Thanks again for explaining what they actually do...
 
Yes, there will be automotive style fuses that will give your entire dash protection from a 12v short. These dash switches control a solenoid similar to one used on the firewall of a Ford trk. These solenoids need battery power to work. Are these the only things not working or is there no dash power at all? If no dash power then make sure your battery main disconnect switch, usually located in the battery box compartment is engaged and all the cables are tight. If you have 12v to one side of the solenoid and other dash items work (such as radio, etc) then your battery power is ok. The house battery switch engages the solenoid by applying 12v to (one of) the small front terminals. This house switch is fused like all the rest or similar to what you have in any car or truck. Again, I'm not familiar with your rig but would imagine your main fuse box is under the dash or in front. Check fuses with a standard VOM (Walmart for $15) set at voltage if the fuse is installed or remove the fuse and use the resistance scale (ohms) to check for continuity. Also, if the switch panel is easy enough to get to I would remove it and check the wiring on the back of the switches. Often the 12v+ wire is simply fused once and then jumped from switch to switch to energize different low amp control circuits. You might just have a loose wire on one switch. Good luck.
 
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