Marsha/CA
Moderator Emeritus
It will be very difficult to find a trailer with 50 amp; most are 30 & 20 amp.
recommended brands?
- Thread starter HvyMtl
- Start date
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I agree, Ma'am, and this has a major impact. Finding a 50 amp trailer is a major issue. I think I will have to look at "Destination" trailers, which are like mobile homes with close to trailer mobility, and service tanks. Many of those are 50 amp, and could have the added bonus of a washer/dryer. But, cost is crucial.
Simply put, adding a heater to cut cost of the LP, in a 20 amp or 30 amp trailer is a major squeeze. Putting 1500 watts @ 12.5 amps on a 20 or 30 amp service screams of taxing the wiring and fuses (well, breakers, actually.) (FYI: Most of those simple little portable heaters you can get at the hardware depots and marts are all 12.5 amp 1500 watt, even the little brick ones...) And leaves near nothing for the heated tanks, hot water heater, refer, etc. I think this is part of the reason Seilerbird is recommending Class A rvs.
Sadly, though, I know little about taking an rv apart and putting it back together, like he does. Something I will definitely have to learn. Its just I do not want to be stuck in severe weather, trying to fix something that broke, due to it being well used or simply old. In other words, having to learn in the most inconvenient way. Sometimes knowing your limitations can keep you from problems.
Simply put, adding a heater to cut cost of the LP, in a 20 amp or 30 amp trailer is a major squeeze. Putting 1500 watts @ 12.5 amps on a 20 or 30 amp service screams of taxing the wiring and fuses (well, breakers, actually.) (FYI: Most of those simple little portable heaters you can get at the hardware depots and marts are all 12.5 amp 1500 watt, even the little brick ones...) And leaves near nothing for the heated tanks, hot water heater, refer, etc. I think this is part of the reason Seilerbird is recommending Class A rvs.
Sadly, though, I know little about taking an rv apart and putting it back together, like he does. Something I will definitely have to learn. Its just I do not want to be stuck in severe weather, trying to fix something that broke, due to it being well used or simply old. In other words, having to learn in the most inconvenient way. Sometimes knowing your limitations can keep you from problems.
S
seilerbird
Guest
I am currently running my refer, a 1500 watt electrical heater, a 46 inch HDTV and a 5.1 surround system along with a number of smaller loads on my 30 amp class A. I am a retired electrician and I am not worried about taxing the wiring and fuses. Especially since there are no 110 volt fuses in most RVs. In the summer I run the rooftop A/C instead of the heater with the same load.
No, I am not recommending a class A because of a 50 amp service, I am recommending a class A because they have more storage room, much better insulation and overall just make a better living space for a full timer. The vast majority of full timers I have met are living in a class A.
No, I am not recommending a class A because of a 50 amp service, I am recommending a class A because they have more storage room, much better insulation and overall just make a better living space for a full timer. The vast majority of full timers I have met are living in a class A.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Most larger and/or higher end brand trailers have 50A service. Many offered it as an option, but it was a popular one. Trailers in the 30+ foot range often have it, but smaller ones generally do not. However, it is sometimes relatively easy to upgrade the electrical system, replacing the shore cord and the electrical load center. Specifics, of course, depend on the RV in question. If you have 50A shore power available at the site, you could also add auxiliary power circuits to the RV to run an extra heater or two. If the power pole doesn't have extra outlets, it is not hard to construct a "Y" adapter that converts a 50A supply to a 30A + a 20A or even two 20A's to power extra circuits. Route heavy duty extension cords inside and plug in your heaters.
You are also going to find no-slide RVs in short supply, but you will likely get a heck of a deal on one of you find it. They just don't sell like slide units.
Trailers up to 36 feet are towable with a good-sized pick-up or van, so length should not be an issue. Unless you already have the tow vehicle and don't want to change. If that's the case, you need to pay attention to your towing capacity as well. However, if you don't move often, hiring a professional RV mover is often less expensive than buying a big truck.
Unlike Seilerbird, I see no benefit to buying a motorhome if you do not plan to move often. It's just another power trailer to maintain and insure.
Nor do I think that age is much of an issue. You can't buy a new one for $10k and new ones are better only because they have a warranty. Old RVs are often well-cared for and many do not get the usage that a car or truck would have at the same age. Most Rvs get used only for weekends and vacations, and travel less than 5000 miles/year. Look for signs of quality construction and good care. Maintenance receipts are one good sign of an attentive wner.
So I think you need to be looking at old, high-line trailers in the 26-30+ foot range. Brands like Nu-wa, Holiday Rambler, Airstream, Carriage and Teton come to mind. Many of them will be 5W rather than travel trailers, though. But there are a huge number of brands and models, many no longer made but good in quality, so don't limit your yourself too much.
You are also going to find no-slide RVs in short supply, but you will likely get a heck of a deal on one of you find it. They just don't sell like slide units.
Trailers up to 36 feet are towable with a good-sized pick-up or van, so length should not be an issue. Unless you already have the tow vehicle and don't want to change. If that's the case, you need to pay attention to your towing capacity as well. However, if you don't move often, hiring a professional RV mover is often less expensive than buying a big truck.
Unlike Seilerbird, I see no benefit to buying a motorhome if you do not plan to move often. It's just another power trailer to maintain and insure.
Nor do I think that age is much of an issue. You can't buy a new one for $10k and new ones are better only because they have a warranty. Old RVs are often well-cared for and many do not get the usage that a car or truck would have at the same age. Most Rvs get used only for weekends and vacations, and travel less than 5000 miles/year. Look for signs of quality construction and good care. Maintenance receipts are one good sign of an attentive wner.
So I think you need to be looking at old, high-line trailers in the 26-30+ foot range. Brands like Nu-wa, Holiday Rambler, Airstream, Carriage and Teton come to mind. Many of them will be 5W rather than travel trailers, though. But there are a huge number of brands and models, many no longer made but good in quality, so don't limit your yourself too much.
S
seilerbird
Guest
I have never said a class A was better if you were not going to be moving. In that case a trailer is the best option. But the OP has stated he doesn't own a truck and he needs the RV to be mobile.
Hmm. Thanks for the list. I still do not know why I do not like 5th wheel. I really cannot put a logical reason behind it. But, yes, I think I have to keep my mind open.
Got any links to "how to upgrade a 30amp trailer to a 50amp?" I doubt I would try to do it, unless it is so easy, a caveman can. Really wish I could search for 50 amp trailers and find them. My google searching just isn't finding the info.
Anyone keep their slide "in" and use the trailer? Seems like they are really set up to be out on most the trailers I have seen.
Yeah, I know I cannot buy a new one for $10k, but it might be possible to find under 10 year old ones for it. I will have to consider having it shipped to location. Due to the extreme weather, and poor roads, I think a 4x4 truck is in order anyway. Might as well get the trailer aspects down, so I can see how big a truck is affordable and necessary for towing.
And again, since it will be me, myself, and I, I would have to have a "toad" anyway with a Class A. (See? I am learning! XD )
Thanks again!
Airstream sounds so good (and I love the looks of them) but again, I believe them to be out of price range. :/ Besides, I would be one of those fellows who would want one of the classics (like before 1975 or so) lovingly and professionally refurbished, and shiny. A future dream perhaps.
Got any links to "how to upgrade a 30amp trailer to a 50amp?" I doubt I would try to do it, unless it is so easy, a caveman can. Really wish I could search for 50 amp trailers and find them. My google searching just isn't finding the info.
Anyone keep their slide "in" and use the trailer? Seems like they are really set up to be out on most the trailers I have seen.
Yeah, I know I cannot buy a new one for $10k, but it might be possible to find under 10 year old ones for it. I will have to consider having it shipped to location. Due to the extreme weather, and poor roads, I think a 4x4 truck is in order anyway. Might as well get the trailer aspects down, so I can see how big a truck is affordable and necessary for towing.
And again, since it will be me, myself, and I, I would have to have a "toad" anyway with a Class A. (See? I am learning! XD )
Thanks again!
Airstream sounds so good (and I love the looks of them) but again, I believe them to be out of price range. :/ Besides, I would be one of those fellows who would want one of the classics (like before 1975 or so) lovingly and professionally refurbished, and shiny. A future dream perhaps.
Rancher Will
Well-known member
After reading all of the above, now I am confused.
I am not a newby, having owned 5 RV's over the past 50+ years. Each was a different brand than the others. None happened to be a Motor Coach only for the reason that our situation as Ranchers made it more convenient for own 5th Wheel units. We have inspected TT's and Motor Coaches every time we traded but our situation and useage determined our final decision.
Many of the comments above may be correct for many different RV's and many users but none of the comments that I see apply to all brand or models or all users.
My only recommendation is to take your time, study as many available units that you can find, determine how you will be using the final selected RV and make your own decision based on what you decide.
I am not a newby, having owned 5 RV's over the past 50+ years. Each was a different brand than the others. None happened to be a Motor Coach only for the reason that our situation as Ranchers made it more convenient for own 5th Wheel units. We have inspected TT's and Motor Coaches every time we traded but our situation and useage determined our final decision.
Many of the comments above may be correct for many different RV's and many users but none of the comments that I see apply to all brand or models or all users.
My only recommendation is to take your time, study as many available units that you can find, determine how you will be using the final selected RV and make your own decision based on what you decide.
carson
Well-known member
A little reading material here... Rv's and cold weather living.
Might answer a few questions.
Link here>> http://www.marxrv.com/skp/survive.htm
Might answer a few questions.
Link here>> http://www.marxrv.com/skp/survive.htm
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
As I said earlier, there is no cookbook answer because each situation is different, depending on what you have. I could write an
The Y adapter and extension cord method is practical for those with limited electrical skills.
I think you need to get out and shop more. Are you looking online, e.g. RVclassified.com, rvt.com, etc? I just did a search on RVT.com for trailers under $15,000 (allows for negotiating the final price) and found quite a few possibles. Here's a few:
http://www.rvt.com/rvdetail4786880.htm
http://www.rvt.com/rvdetail1102355.htm
http://www.rvt.com/rvdetail4631396.htm
http://www.rvt.com/rvdetail4641590.htm
http://www.rvt.com/rvdetail4803574.htm
http://www.rvt.com/rvdetail4806630.htm
Theberrys
Well-known member
Here is a link to a RV Consumer Report site.
http://www.jrconsumer.com/rv-report.asp
http://www.jrconsumer.com/rv-report.asp
DearMissMermaid
Well-known member
Since your budget is around 10K, I would be looking at travel trailers, Class A and Class C, all with no slides. You will find loads of bargains. Class B's seem way overpriced. I think you could quickly grow tired of living fulltime in a Class B.
I've been living in a 1994, Class C, 28 footer,30 amp, no slides, for almost 2 years with a ridiculous little dog. I've been to 17 states and put 10,000 miles on it. Due to my own budget considerations, I don't own a car at all, but I don't have a daily commute either. I work at home and often workamp (trade labor for rent & utilities). Class C's are able to tow a car (the prior owners towed a Saturn) with mine.
If you are going to have a commute, I would still say look at Class A and Class C's with no slides, and then drive a junker to commute with if budget is a consideration in both areas. Some folks have to have a top of the line newish cars, others like me are happy with old clunkers. (I've driven several old clunkers with good luck in the past.) I bought an old clunker while I was shopping for an RV, once it was bought, I resold it and amazingly came out even.
I have only 30 amp service and use a 1500 watt ceramic heater in the winter. If it can't keep up, I supplement with the propane furnace. If you are planning to be parked a while, you can have a large propane tank delivered to your lot for using the propane heater, stove and hot water so you don't have to refill the tiny tanks all the time. I also have a tiny 200watt ceramic heater (super handy for foot warming, keeping the bathroom toasty etc, matter of fact, I might get a 2nd one). I use a 180 watt mattress warmer at night on the bed (heaven on earth). I installed a 400watt electric hot water kit which I use year round though I have the propane option. My 200watt crockpot seems to be in use 5-6-7 times a week, all day. Plus I run computer equipment, TV, stereo, 5 medical devices, and assorted rechargers. All this on 30 amp. Oh and I cook in the 1100 watt microwave quite often. My fridge is running on electric too. I sometimes use the A/C fan to stir the hot air around in the winter from the ceramic heater. If you deflect the A/C vents so the air is not blowing directly on you it does do wonders to spread the heat around the motorhome more evenly. The direct air from the AC fan won't feel hot like a forced air furnace, but it will stir the hot air around and make the RV cozier.
I try to maintain my RV nicely, and thus far have not been turned away from any parks or campgrounds due to age alone. But I rarely stay long term in one spot, except when workamping.
I think if you look at travel trailers, Class A and Class C, (all with no slides as you prefer) you will find an abundance under $10,000. Many that are privately up for sale are way overpriced, as time goes on the owners are willing to get more reasonable. So watch those in the $20,000+ range too, give the owners your phone number in case they drop the price weeks, months down the road (many do!). I was very partial to the Class C, because they tend to have a lot less systems to work on than the Class A's. I do some of my own maintenance, upgrades and repairs. I used the Ford dealer for my engine and generator maintenance. I try to avoid RV dealers for work except when forced to (due to their rather high labor costs. )
As for laundry, I bought a compact portable washing machine from Haier that quick connects to my bathroom or kitchen sink and is less than 18 inches square. I do small loads and often hang them up inside to dry overnight. Sometimes I am able to hang stuff up outside to dry much quicker. I put in a compression post and flanges in the shower near the ceiling, then I hang my clothes on hangers to dry. Towels and undies, I simply use clothes pins to hang them from the clothes hangers too while drying. I have a 12volt clip on fan that is super powerful. I can clamp this in the shower to help speed dry the clothes. once that small load is dry, I can wash the next load to hang up.
I am in LOVE with the washing machine, it cleans super well. I don't mind not having a dryer (no room for one) as thus far everything line dries inside or out, just fine.
One other thought, climb up the ladder and look closely at the roof, take lots of pictures too. Staying nice and dry in an RV is just as important as in a boat. Matter of fact, takes loads of pics of any RV that strikes your fancy, so that you can refer back to them, as you mull over whether to make an offer on it or not.
Try to have 1-2k set aside for emergency repairs or upgrades when you buy an older unit, in case you do find a surprise afterwards, but assuming everything is OK, you have some spare change to make some little upgrades should you get comfy and need a few things added or upgraded.
Ebay has lots of older rigs with no slides on auction, but certainly go see the unit in person first, before placing any bids at all, unless you just like to be a big gambler.
I hope some of this info helps!
PS... I do think you are putting too much emphasis on brand names. Look for the things that count, past maintenance by the past owners, is often very critical. Also, some manufacturers had good years and bad years. That just makes it even more confusing.
I am also surprised about the 5 year comment on appliances. I am still using the 1994 stove, microwave, A/C, furnace, hot water and built-in coffee maker. It does look like the prior owner had some major fridge work done, but it has performed flawlessly for me.
I've been living in a 1994, Class C, 28 footer,30 amp, no slides, for almost 2 years with a ridiculous little dog. I've been to 17 states and put 10,000 miles on it. Due to my own budget considerations, I don't own a car at all, but I don't have a daily commute either. I work at home and often workamp (trade labor for rent & utilities). Class C's are able to tow a car (the prior owners towed a Saturn) with mine.
If you are going to have a commute, I would still say look at Class A and Class C's with no slides, and then drive a junker to commute with if budget is a consideration in both areas. Some folks have to have a top of the line newish cars, others like me are happy with old clunkers. (I've driven several old clunkers with good luck in the past.) I bought an old clunker while I was shopping for an RV, once it was bought, I resold it and amazingly came out even.
I have only 30 amp service and use a 1500 watt ceramic heater in the winter. If it can't keep up, I supplement with the propane furnace. If you are planning to be parked a while, you can have a large propane tank delivered to your lot for using the propane heater, stove and hot water so you don't have to refill the tiny tanks all the time. I also have a tiny 200watt ceramic heater (super handy for foot warming, keeping the bathroom toasty etc, matter of fact, I might get a 2nd one). I use a 180 watt mattress warmer at night on the bed (heaven on earth). I installed a 400watt electric hot water kit which I use year round though I have the propane option. My 200watt crockpot seems to be in use 5-6-7 times a week, all day. Plus I run computer equipment, TV, stereo, 5 medical devices, and assorted rechargers. All this on 30 amp. Oh and I cook in the 1100 watt microwave quite often. My fridge is running on electric too. I sometimes use the A/C fan to stir the hot air around in the winter from the ceramic heater. If you deflect the A/C vents so the air is not blowing directly on you it does do wonders to spread the heat around the motorhome more evenly. The direct air from the AC fan won't feel hot like a forced air furnace, but it will stir the hot air around and make the RV cozier.
I try to maintain my RV nicely, and thus far have not been turned away from any parks or campgrounds due to age alone. But I rarely stay long term in one spot, except when workamping.
I think if you look at travel trailers, Class A and Class C, (all with no slides as you prefer) you will find an abundance under $10,000. Many that are privately up for sale are way overpriced, as time goes on the owners are willing to get more reasonable. So watch those in the $20,000+ range too, give the owners your phone number in case they drop the price weeks, months down the road (many do!). I was very partial to the Class C, because they tend to have a lot less systems to work on than the Class A's. I do some of my own maintenance, upgrades and repairs. I used the Ford dealer for my engine and generator maintenance. I try to avoid RV dealers for work except when forced to (due to their rather high labor costs. )
As for laundry, I bought a compact portable washing machine from Haier that quick connects to my bathroom or kitchen sink and is less than 18 inches square. I do small loads and often hang them up inside to dry overnight. Sometimes I am able to hang stuff up outside to dry much quicker. I put in a compression post and flanges in the shower near the ceiling, then I hang my clothes on hangers to dry. Towels and undies, I simply use clothes pins to hang them from the clothes hangers too while drying. I have a 12volt clip on fan that is super powerful. I can clamp this in the shower to help speed dry the clothes. once that small load is dry, I can wash the next load to hang up.
I am in LOVE with the washing machine, it cleans super well. I don't mind not having a dryer (no room for one) as thus far everything line dries inside or out, just fine.
One other thought, climb up the ladder and look closely at the roof, take lots of pictures too. Staying nice and dry in an RV is just as important as in a boat. Matter of fact, takes loads of pics of any RV that strikes your fancy, so that you can refer back to them, as you mull over whether to make an offer on it or not.
Try to have 1-2k set aside for emergency repairs or upgrades when you buy an older unit, in case you do find a surprise afterwards, but assuming everything is OK, you have some spare change to make some little upgrades should you get comfy and need a few things added or upgraded.
Ebay has lots of older rigs with no slides on auction, but certainly go see the unit in person first, before placing any bids at all, unless you just like to be a big gambler.
I hope some of this info helps!
PS... I do think you are putting too much emphasis on brand names. Look for the things that count, past maintenance by the past owners, is often very critical. Also, some manufacturers had good years and bad years. That just makes it even more confusing.
I am also surprised about the 5 year comment on appliances. I am still using the 1994 stove, microwave, A/C, furnace, hot water and built-in coffee maker. It does look like the prior owner had some major fridge work done, but it has performed flawlessly for me.
Thanks for all the help. I do think I will have to go 5th wheel, as they seem to have more 4 season options than travel trailers. A little more investigating shows I can get some decent deals on older ones. Sadly, I will have to commute to work, in severe winter weather, which says a true 4x4 with 4x4 low. But, considering you have to have a big truck to pull the 5th wheel anyway, looks like I will have to adjust up my expenses.
(If the dog brings you joy, and happiness, is it really ridiculous?)
Hmm. I think I would rather not have to drive a motorhome back and forth.
I too have been thinking about laundry, and several of the 5th wheelers do have hook ups. I might pm you later to get the info on your Haier laundry machine.
Totally agree with going over the roof with a fine tooth comb. Do not want the headache of leaks.
Ebay, I am leery about, as well as Craigslist. But, I do watch these sites for deals. Just gotta watch for the scammers. (Funny thing is, if you are "selling" a rv or truck in Tennessee, and the pictures all have palm trees in them, I automatically believe your ad is probably a scam. You would not believe the number of trucks, cars, and rvs with palm trees in their pictures on Craigslist...)
Now, I wait on the HR department.
Happy Thanksgiving!
(If the dog brings you joy, and happiness, is it really ridiculous?)
Hmm. I think I would rather not have to drive a motorhome back and forth.
I too have been thinking about laundry, and several of the 5th wheelers do have hook ups. I might pm you later to get the info on your Haier laundry machine.
Totally agree with going over the roof with a fine tooth comb. Do not want the headache of leaks.
Ebay, I am leery about, as well as Craigslist. But, I do watch these sites for deals. Just gotta watch for the scammers. (Funny thing is, if you are "selling" a rv or truck in Tennessee, and the pictures all have palm trees in them, I automatically believe your ad is probably a scam. You would not believe the number of trucks, cars, and rvs with palm trees in their pictures on Craigslist...)
Now, I wait on the HR department.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Ernie n Tara
Well-known member
At this point, the subject has been talked to death but I'll make one suggestion. Your concerns as you listed them are mostly with the appliances and having to repair/replace them. That suggests that you need to select which ones you want and use that list to qualify trailers, not some hypothetical "reliability/quality" list for the Trailer.
You'll find that almost all RV's will use appliances from the same manufacturers. If I had your concerns (I don't, its floor plan/storage, cost, maintainance history), I'd compare prices within a manufacturer's line for his appliances on the theory that higher price equates to a better unit. I'd then buy the trailer using the higher price units. Probably wouldn't work, but neither will your approach.
JM2C,
Ernie
You'll find that almost all RV's will use appliances from the same manufacturers. If I had your concerns (I don't, its floor plan/storage, cost, maintainance history), I'd compare prices within a manufacturer's line for his appliances on the theory that higher price equates to a better unit. I'd then buy the trailer using the higher price units. Probably wouldn't work, but neither will your approach.
JM2C,
Ernie
