Wireless HDMI connection.

JailHouseDwag · Nov 19, 2011

Has anybody seen this product and used it or similar device?
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11525049&search=Iogear&topnav=&Mo=0&cm_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&lang=en-US&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&N=5000043&whse=BC&Dx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntk=Text_Search&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=Iogear&Ntt=Iogear&No=0&Nty=1&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial#BVRRWidgetID

We've recently bought a 2007 Tiffin Allegor, but it has two older analog TV's, and my wife wants the main Tv in a different location instead of the front above the driver, she also wants a bigger Tv than will fit there even if we pull out the current overhead enclosure. This looks like a quick solution for both the fron and bedroom Tv.

Gary RV_Wizard · Nov 20, 2011

Haven't used one but am glad to see the price of wireless HDMI coming down. When I researched it 3 years ago it was over $700.

You don't need to use HDMI unless you are connecting the new tvs to an HD-only source such as a HD satellite box or Blue Ray DVD. I upgraded my analog tvs to digital and continue to use the old coax just fine. Even get HD via the OTA antenna. My Sony Home Theater/DVD has a coax output as well, so I get 480i output from that. 720p would be better for my size tvs, but the image quality is still quite nice.

seilerbird · Nov 20, 2011

If it was my RV I would not use a wireless HDMI transmitter. I would get a 50 foot HDMI cable (it is a digital signal so there won't be much loss)

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-50-FT-15/dp/B000QKKAPE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1321804416&sr=8-2

And run that between the two units. If you hired an electrician to run the wire it would still be less than half the price of the wireless unit. I would probably drill a hole in the floor below each unit and run it underneath the rig, using tie wraps to keep the cable in place. Seal the holes with silicone after you are done. Or it could probably be run through cabinets.

Bob Buchanan · Nov 20, 2011

Would agree with Tom -- in that what you are exploring seems to be total overkill. You only want TV in one extra room whereas the wireless unit does the full potential HD home theatre environment for up to two rooms.

Might also mention that all HDMI between TVs or whatever is not the same. Have been exploring using HDMI output from my Samsung Charge smartphone. In doing so discovered that if the sending source is 1080p and the receiving is 1080i, they won't talk to each other (usually you get garbled sound and no picture).

Haven't delved into great depth because I'm delving into too many other things now

. but the "i" stands for interlaced and requires fixed frame rate on both whereas the "p" means variable rates are OK. Or, UN-interlacing ability must be in the receiving unit. So, my advice to anyone "buying" a TV for HDMI is make sure it will work in the store or make sure the vendor will take it back if it doesn't work. In my case, I took my phone and HDMI cable with me - and bought a unit that worked in the store. Some did not work.

Gary RV_Wizard · Nov 21, 2011

but the "i" stands for interlaced and requires fixed frame rate on both whereas the "p" means variable rates are OK.

The "P" stands for "Progressive Scan"

It's not a variable rate - it refers to the fact that the lines on the display are drawn sequentially. It takes twice as high a data rate as interlaced, which draws alternate lines only.

see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Progressive_scan

HDMI is not a video format - it is just the means of transporting the video data. The sending and receiving device still have to agree on the video format, which can be one of several different types (commonly 480i, 720p, 1080i, and 1080p, but there are others).

Wireless HDMI connection.

JailHouseDwag

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Bob Buchanan

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