ZuniJayne
Well-known member
Greetings, gang!
When I finally got around to trying to fix the furnace in my Arctic Fox, It was a challenge. I had to undo the propane line (after shutting it off, of course) and drag the whole thing completely out of the enclosure to even diagnose it. This is a major task in the Fox due to its location and my physical condition. <g> The edges of the case are VERY sharp and can cut you in a New York minute.
The symptoms were that the fan would come on fine, but the burner would fail to ignite for some reason. I took it apart and checked the orfice and burner just in case Both were in great condition because the furnace quit working a few years ago and didn't get much use. Because I mostly boondocked, I relied on my 8000 btu catalytic pad heater to keep me warm and it did.
I took apart the propane line where it came up to the furnace to see if it needed cleaning out. I'd read that sometimes the oily additives used in propane can block the lines. That was true of my hot water heater once, but not here.
I then tested all the circuits I could for wire continuity and voltage, and noticed there was low voltage (11.4) at the gas valves and ground. The standard ground went to a contact bar that was riveted to the furnace case, but the case wasn't grounded to the frame or return ground that I could see. (I'm no expert, mind you.)
I'd read somewhere that a low voltage/bad ground could make an appliance not work. I got some spare grounding wire left over from my now defunct Hughesnet dish, and screwed it directly to the furnace case. Then I screwed THAT directly to the trailer frame.
Voila! Furnace works like a champ! A full 12 volts plus at the gas valve, etc.! I finally needed the furnace because I'm staying near Albuquerque this winter and it will get below zero some nights. The furnace in the Fox is ducted around the holding tanks and should keep them from freezing up. (I also skirted the Fox. That REALLY makes a difference in winter. I used polyisocyanurate foam board the last time because it is so easy to cut and fit, (and the silver backing matched the Fox), but the price has more than doubled!)
I'd hate to think how much I'd have to pay an RV shop for this diagnosis and fix. I am grateful that I can do some of these things myself. I encourage folks to try fixing some of these things on your own. Most of the time the hardest thing is getting the round tuit. ;D You can get great advice here!
The picture below shows the old grounding terminal on the right and the new grounding on the left. I think bad grounding may also be part of the problem with my hot water heater not lighting on propane. I am hoping it is not the $100 circuit board.
Hope this helps someone! Now, where is that other round tuit???
When I finally got around to trying to fix the furnace in my Arctic Fox, It was a challenge. I had to undo the propane line (after shutting it off, of course) and drag the whole thing completely out of the enclosure to even diagnose it. This is a major task in the Fox due to its location and my physical condition. <g> The edges of the case are VERY sharp and can cut you in a New York minute.
The symptoms were that the fan would come on fine, but the burner would fail to ignite for some reason. I took it apart and checked the orfice and burner just in case Both were in great condition because the furnace quit working a few years ago and didn't get much use. Because I mostly boondocked, I relied on my 8000 btu catalytic pad heater to keep me warm and it did.
I took apart the propane line where it came up to the furnace to see if it needed cleaning out. I'd read that sometimes the oily additives used in propane can block the lines. That was true of my hot water heater once, but not here.
I then tested all the circuits I could for wire continuity and voltage, and noticed there was low voltage (11.4) at the gas valves and ground. The standard ground went to a contact bar that was riveted to the furnace case, but the case wasn't grounded to the frame or return ground that I could see. (I'm no expert, mind you.)
I'd read somewhere that a low voltage/bad ground could make an appliance not work. I got some spare grounding wire left over from my now defunct Hughesnet dish, and screwed it directly to the furnace case. Then I screwed THAT directly to the trailer frame.
Voila! Furnace works like a champ! A full 12 volts plus at the gas valve, etc.! I finally needed the furnace because I'm staying near Albuquerque this winter and it will get below zero some nights. The furnace in the Fox is ducted around the holding tanks and should keep them from freezing up. (I also skirted the Fox. That REALLY makes a difference in winter. I used polyisocyanurate foam board the last time because it is so easy to cut and fit, (and the silver backing matched the Fox), but the price has more than doubled!)
I'd hate to think how much I'd have to pay an RV shop for this diagnosis and fix. I am grateful that I can do some of these things myself. I encourage folks to try fixing some of these things on your own. Most of the time the hardest thing is getting the round tuit. ;D You can get great advice here!
The picture below shows the old grounding terminal on the right and the new grounding on the left. I think bad grounding may also be part of the problem with my hot water heater not lighting on propane. I am hoping it is not the $100 circuit board.
Hope this helps someone! Now, where is that other round tuit???
