newbie with a few questions. prob simple to you RVers

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jje1960 said:
A few years ago, I helped out a guy with a brand new TT, he had exactly the same symptoms as you are describing with the ho****er for only a very short period of time.  The unit had been winterized and the valve was closed off, so he was actually not pulling the water from the right hose.  Turned the knob and problem solved.  Not sure if this is the same issue, but it sure sounds like it.
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where is this valve? i only know of the valve under my RV above my rear rims, there is two valves, looks to be low point drains, open ended to the ground, I opened one and cold water came out, opened the other and nothing,  do you know what they are?
 
RabbitCTSV said:
where is this valve? i only know of the valve under my RV above my rear rims, there is two valves, looks to be low point drains, open ended to the ground, I opened one and cold water came out, opened the other and nothing,  do you know what they are?
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Find the hot water heater plumbing on the inside of the unit.  Usually this is behind a panel with a few screws, remove the panel and expose the back of the ho****er heater, this is where the by-pass valves are.
 
jje1960 said:
Find the hot water heater plumbing on the inside of the unit.  Usually this is behind a panel with a few screws, remove the panel and expose the back of the ho****er heater, this is where the by-pass valves are.
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i didnt see that , i have had every panel off the rv looking threw it, ill do it again but dont think there is one.
 
believe me there is access to the panel inside, either from the unit or a storage compartment, that's the way it is .... look again.  help here gary......
 
Not all RVs come equipped with a heater bypass valve, which is only needed to winterize the RV. Older ones in particular. It's possible that yours does not have the bypass mechanism.

What year, make and model is it again? Sure wish you would put that info in a signature line so I don't have to hunt for it each time the question arises.
 
Like Gary said, it's real important we know the make model year and power...
that way the responders will be people who know what you are dealing with, rather than guys being helpful based on their own experience.
 
My bypass valve is behind a kitchen drawer in the cabinet.  I have to take the whole drawer out to reach it.
 
Just a suggestion, from the outside of the unit, locate the hot water heater, start your search inside on the other side.  May be behind a cabinet, drawer, access plate, under built in seats....  As Gary said, may not be equiped with this, however if your getting some hot water, the unit is working.....  Still seems like you may be drawing from the top vs bottom of the unit.
 
well , last night I changed my anode rod and cleaned everything out very good, on the bottom of my water heater was a small plastic fitting, its a tube about 3/8" round and 4 to 5" long with a 45 in it. it look at some cut away drawings on the internet and it seems its one of the Water in / water out fittings that are inside the tank where the hose connects. this could be the problem,

as for the water line i did a good 30 min run down of the lines, there is nothing as far as valves, water comes into the water heater ( blue ) and comes out ( red ). it goes under the cabinets to the bath room. then up into the sink and T's off over to the shower.

think is should take the lines off and re install the little 3/8" fitting?
 
I'll add I found mine behind a very secured Velcro taped to the max panel on one coach and under a bunk on the other..
 
Icemaker said:
I'll add I found mine behind a very secured Velcro taped to the max panel on one coach and under a bunk on the other..
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thanks, i guess you made it sound like its hidden, ill pull floors out of the cabinets and stuff like that. thanks, ill let you know what if find.
 
Any bypass valve has to be between the first hot water tap and the tank, so it sounds as though you don't have one. Not a big deal - just means that winterizing (if you need to do that) uses more antifreeze or it takes a bit longer to blow out the lines. And you can always add a bypass if you like  - kits are readily available.

I wouldn't think that tube you found would cause a problem, but the heater mfgr put it there for some reason, so I guess it is worth re-attaching. Where does it go - hot outlet or cold inlet? The normal design is that hot water is pulled off near the top of the tank and cold enters near the bottom. That is intended to let you continue to pull hot water out while cold water enters. If yours is mixing hot and cold too quickly in the tank, that could be your problem. First I've ever heard of that one, though.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
Any bypass valve has to be between the first hot water tap and the tank, so it sounds as though you don't have one. Not a big deal - just means that winterizing (if you need to do that) uses more antifreeze or it takes a bit longer to blow out the lines. And you can always add a bypass if you like  - kits are readily available.

I wouldn't think that tube you found would cause a problem, but the heater mfgr put it there for some reason, so I guess it is worth re-attaching. Where does it go - hot outlet or cold inlet? The normal design is that hot water is pulled off near the top of the tank and cold enters near the bottom. That is intended to let you continue to pull hot water out while cold water enters. If yours is mixing hot and cold too quickly in the tank, that could be your problem. First I've ever heard of that one, though.
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here is a pic of a cut away of the water heater, look at the little white PVC/ plastic tubes. i guess one of them has fallen off. it looks as if one points up and the other down. Im a little worried about taking it apart , nothing leaks but i guess it needs to be done. to get this thing working correctly.
 

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Yeap, those tubes are going to affect where the hot is drawn from and where the incoming cold water goes. That could cause cold to mix with the hot when it should not. I have no experience with Suburban heaters or  how difficult it may be to remove the water line fittings from the tank. I assume they are installed at the heater factory and suspect they are not designed for field replacement.
 
well if i do take it apart and find that its not back together or cant fix it I will just buy the biggest hot water heater that will go in. i dont see why there is such a small one in the rv now but i bet it was some sort of money savings or customer request.

What is the biggest water heater that will go in without major modifications? looks like a 4 or 5gal in now. any recommendations on the brand? it has a suburban in place now.
 
i have an atwood 2334 furnace, it works great, but it seems the thermostat is slow to read, it says it 75 in the room and its very cold, when it turns on it makes the room VERY hot and the digital readout says it has only gone up a degree or two. so its not working correctly. my question is : does the digital part that hangs on the wall the place the temp is taken. or is it something in the intake of the furnace. if it is the wall mount does it go bad like this, and if so can i just go get any one from lows or home depot or do i need one from atwood?
 
RabbitCTSV said:
i have an atwood 2334 furnace, it works great, but it seems the thermostat is slow to read, it says it 75 in the room and its very cold, when it turns on it makes the room VERY hot and the digital readout says it has only gone up a degree or two. so its not working correctly. my question is : does the digital part that hangs on the wall the place the temp is taken. or is it something in the intake of the furnace. if it is the wall mount does it go bad like this, and if so can i just go get any one from lows or home depot or do i need one from atwood?
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Did this happen gradually, were you ever happy with the temp vs thermostat relation?  I'd start with replacing the thermostat or at least checking the connections.
 
can i use any thermostat? or does it need to be a ATWOOD, and it has acted like this from the first day I got it, It was a used RV
 
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