figured it out ! Remote start for Honda EU3000is

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I'm not sure the Honda would make enough heat to move that choke thermostat unless maybe it was right by the exhaust. That might work.

Certainly it would not be a good thing if the choke stayed on too long, that's hard on the engine. Better off lean than rich when it's cold.
 
Darth said:
I'm not sure the Honda would make enough heat to move that choke thermostat unless maybe it was right by the exhaust. That might work.

Certainly it would not be a good thing if the choke stayed on too long, that's hard on the engine. Better off lean than rich when it's cold.
Click to expand...

One of the main problems back in the day with the electrostatic chokes that were being 12vdc heated, the chokes pulled off too early.  The engines were just too cold to run smoothly so early with open carb throats (too lean too early).  Might work in this application.  Closed for start-up, open early for running.  I know I push the choke in on my Honda within 3-4 seconds of start up and it runs smooth as silk.  Even in Winter temperatures.  Just a thought.
 
That might well work then.  I thought this one out quite a while and this was the best I could come up with but you may have something there.
 
What you have for a short run remote looks like it might work just fine.  For 30-40 feet or more, wireless of some sort would probably work a bit better.  The idea is to put ideas together to come up with a solution to accommodate all.
Happy Holidays to you and your family.
 
You're asking if I have any progress report?

If so, yes, I have it done and working, but to be clear, this is a remote that is wired, not a wireless. I think there was some confusion.

I have it finished and the maiden voyage went perfect!
 
Darth-

This is an OLD post I'm replying to - but I need to know where to get the matching 6 pin connectors for the Honda EU3000is ignition switch harness. Please reply if available.
 
Are you planning on building an extension harness to start it remotely like I did?

Regardless, I am going by memory here but I searched ebay a bit and I'm quite sure this is the one I ordered. I know it was from the UK and this one is. Seems to look right.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Way-Pin-6-3mm-Locking-TAB-Connector-Plug-Socket-Kit-/180596716324?hash=item2a0c673324

My generator is in storage, tucked away, but if you need me to go look at it to make sure I could do that maybe some time in the next few days.
 
Darth, the connector from Honda in the US from a dealer:
1 - 07692-0011200 6 pin large connector housing male and female ($2-3.00 depending on dealer)
AR(6 per housing) - 07692-0010900 large spade male terminal ($0.17-0.25 each)
AR(6 per housing) - 07692-0011000 Large connector female terminal ($0.17-0.23 each)

Thanks for figuring this out.  I like cheap!!  I am going to look around for a small pull-type solenoid to activate the choke (Honda uses one on some generators, but probably pretty pricey.  I will add to this forum if I find something.
I appreciate you doing all the layout, very nice.

 
That's great if you found it closer to home. I tried our local Honda dealer and he told me it was a no-go.  I was in no hurry as it was an over the winter project but as it was, they arrived from the UK in quick time anyway.

I couldn't seem to find a small push/pull solenoid that was cheap (like me!) so I used the power door lock actuator from an old junk vehicle. You can buy those lock actuators real cheap brand new off ebay if you decide to go that route.

I don't think I posted a picture of it installed. I used a piece of central vac pipe to run the harness down to the generator. To explain the control picture, the key is self explanatory. To start, press up and hold for a second on the switch to set the choke, crank the generator until it starts, press down for a second on the switch to open the choke. The orange plug under the switch is an accessory power outlet for us to charge our phones etc. It's wired up to the main cabin batteries that are hooked to solar, NOT to the generator battery. The generator still starts off it's original battery.

Make sure you ask me if you have any questions.



 
hey just wondering if you could break down a little more on the install it would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
 
Unfortunately, this is a 5 year old discussion and Sal****er Redneck (the original poster) hasn't been back since then.
 
Dusty Roads said:
hey just wondering if you could break down a little more on the install it would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the wireless remote or the wired style I mentioned farther down?
 
I also wondered about this thread. Been quiet for quite a while. A shame because I was quite interested in it.
Wireless would be great for me. Hard wired would be a PITA.
Maybe more info is available.
 
I have a Honda 3000 inverter which had an auto choke - I have it wired remotely to start &  stop by two push buttons in the rv BUT I have to have the key turned on.  How can I bypass the key so I can turn it on/off in the rv?  HELP
 
I read up on some of the commercial remote starters available for generators and they seemed to be like that, the key had to be on.

I was thinking about it and thinking you could intercept the ignition switch power wire and run it through a relay that you controlled either with another button on your remote ( if it has extras) or you with a manual switch. Inconvenient but at least it would work and it wouldn't ruin anything if the key was left on but the relay was not activated.
 
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