leaky stove hood-vent?

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chrishibbard7

chrishibbard7

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Joined
May 21, 2011
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Anyone had issues with their stove vent leaking water onto your stove and counter?

Bought our Class C last summer, and there was minor damage on the back counter, near the hood vent.  Repaired it, but noticed one hard, rainy day, we got water on the counter again, and trouble-shot it to be coming in from the hood vent.  The vent swings opwn when the vent is on, and seems to close tightly (inspected from outside) when off, but still leaks.  Right now I have duct tape over the outside, but rather have my hood working!

Any suggestions?  Is this a common problem?
 
With the tape over the vent, does it still leak?  Sounds like a dumb question but you didn't say.
 
Not familiar with your style of vent mechanism but it obviously sounds like it is not sealing every time. You can test with a garden hose if needed. If you have already traced the leak to the vent I assume you eliminated the possibility of leaking at the roof line where the vent seals?  If so, then either the vent can be rebuilt or install a plastic hood over it. I'm referring to the type of hood that is open at the rear but would cover the top side of the vent from the weather?
 
yes, the leak stopped after a liberal application of duct tape over the vent on the outside wall: tested by several fairly severe rain storms over 2 months.  But I can't use the vent like this.  I verified there are not other leaks going on, through the ceiling or elsewhere.

This is a vent that pulls air from over the range, and pushes it out a vertical exhaust to the outside, through the *wall* of the RV, not through the ceiling.
The exhaust has louvers that flap open when the fan is on, and fall closed when not in use.  There is a "long" physical switch to turn the vent on/off, that may also pull a cable, like in an old car's "switches" that redirect air to heat/ defrost/ vent...  maybe the vent has a mechanism that SHOULD be "sealing" or locking the exhaust shut tightly but isn't? 

There was evidence this was a problem occasionally for the previous owner, but never fixed (probably they never figured it out--it USUALLY does not leak...maybe it's getting stuck open once in a while).
 
OK, just assumed it went through the roof, not out through the side wall. With a 2004 you should be able to call the mfr and have them send you a print so you can evaluate how best to repair or replace. If enough of it sticks out through the wall you could also look to put a small hood on it. Same idea as the plastic vent covers made for the roof. Maybe posting a pic would let others who have the same thing recognize it or help come up with ideas.
 
We had a outside-vented microwave oven in a previous rig. It leaked twice in 5 years, when high winds drove rain into that side and wiggled the flapper that covers the vent. Our current rig vents the microwave/convection oven inside, which is nice in cold weather but a nuisance when its hot out.
 
grrr... after a recent bout of heavy rain, I figured out it's not the vent.  Rigth after a big rain, wall behind the kitchen counter was very slightly wet, all the way up into the cabinet, where the wall meets the ceiling.

I made make-shift dams to hold water in place 1/4" - 1/2 deep on top of the roof, right over the problem area.  nothing leaked! 

The roof is original, 2004, and rubber.  looks to be in good shape, but a few "bubbles" on both sides here and there, not nothing looking like a leak.  The trim work covering the rubber roof on both sides look good, no sign of leak.

Is there some kind of slow leak, maybe it's leaking where a vent or something pokes through the roof, several feet away?  Visually inspecting the roof, I cant' see anything that might be causing this. 

Any suggestions (please)?  It doesn't leak in most rains, and when it does, it's a very small amount (tablesppons?) but I don't want to invite rot into my walls! 

If I apply the "Treatment" products to my rubber roof, will that FIX anything, or is it just meant to maintain the rubber?  kinda running out of ideas here, don't want to pay for a whole new roof, as it looks pretty good from on top!
 
I had a leak near a vent when it rained hard or blew hard.  It filled a nearby light fixture about 6"-8" away from the vent.  Turned out to be the vent seal that seals the cover to the metal frame.  Apparently in a hard rain it would splash off the roof and back up past the seal.  I fixed my problem by installing vent covers (Camco or MaxAir).  Your problem could be something similar and the water is running some distance on top of the ceiling or just under the rubber before it exits.  Check out roof protrusions (vent, etc.) closely within 3'-4' of the wet area.
 
Thanks, Molaker.  Now I'm noticing the self-leveling sealant on the crank-up antenna has some surface cracks, but they don't look like they go through.  I guess I'll try that next (hope it's it!)

Anyone know if I should remove the old self-leveling sealant around an antenna/vent/whatever, before I put more on?  Should I clean the rubber roof with something before I caulk out new self-leveling stuff onto it?

As always, appreciate ya'll advice.
 
I have narrowed down areas in the past with taped down tarp material. Once I had confirmed I could stop the leak by doing this then I would reseal everything in that area.
As a rule of thumb I always try and remove most of the old sealant before adding new. Otherwise the sealant area just grows in size. The sealant wants a clean dry surface in order to adhere (sometimes warm temps also) and there is a cleaner to use on the rubber but I don't remember what is best. My roof is fiberglass but someone with a rubber roof will have a better memory than I.
I had a window leak that was a real pain also. Found out the roof "gutter" stopped right above it and the track drain was plugged. Took about 2 months of rain on and off in between different repairs to track it down.
Keep eliminating items as you are and you will find it, good luck.
 
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