Why Level my motorhome??

besides the obvious reason of it being nice to sit / sleep in a level motorhome is there really any reason to level it?

People have told me that the fridge needs to be level, but the refrigeration engineers I've spoken to say the fridge woulnd't care as long as it's not lying on it's side...

Thanks
Keith

An RV refrigerator does need to be reasonable level to work correctly.  They are not like household refrigerators.  However, if you're comfortable and your drawers and doors stay open and closed, then the reefer should be happy to.

427v8 said:

besides the obvious reason of it being nice to sit / sleep in a level motorhome is there really any reason to level it?

People have told me that the fridge needs to be level, but the refrigeration engineers I've spoken to say the fridge woulnd't care as long as it's not lying on it's side...

Thanks
Keith

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Levels stabilize the motorhome - so that you don't have to post a sign " If the motorhome is rocking don't bother knocking"  <VBG>

The refrigerator people you are talking to are not conversant with RV refrigerators. Unlevel can cause serious damage as well as poor performance.  The absorption cooling process relies on heat and gravity to move the coolant around thus when parked it must be level as possible. When moving on the road the rocking motion induced by road imperfections and changes in speed, etc. will prevent the coolant from pooling in the boiler and overheating. It is this overheating of the coolant that contributes to cooling unit failure.

427v8 said:

besides the obvious reason of it being nice to sit / sleep in a level motorhome is there really any reason to level it?

People have told me that the fridge needs to be level, but the refrigeration engineers I've spoken to say the fridge woulnd't care as long as it's not lying on it's side...

Thanks
Keith

Click to expand...

Hi Keith:

An RV fridge works on a different principle than those your friends may have been thinking of. In order to increase the temperature of refrigerant, a home type fridge can use household electricity to run a compressor. When the pressure is released, and the refrigerant begins to evaporate, cooling happens.

The RVer does not want to use electricity to run a compressor so the RV fridge has no moving parts. It works generally on the concept of Ammonia ultimatly evaporating in a Hydrogen environment causing the same type of cooling. However, getting the Ammonia to a gaseous state and then condensed is done by heating it in a boiler (via propane or electricity) along with other liquids such as water so it will rise up a tube and then separate while the water returns to the boiler.

Here's a digram of the RV frig that explains this in detail:

http://www.rvmobile.com/TECH/TROUBLE/COOLDOC.HTM

Note the mention of the "Old Style" boiler vs. the "New Style" as it applies to need to be level. Also, note the tubes the liquids must pass through. Gravity moves these liquids downward -- so if the tubing (forward and backward) are tilted beyond a certain point, the liquid will not be able move, or move as fast.

Very interesting, Thanks for the help. The refridgeration engineer I talked to was an Old Whirlpool guy who worked with compressor based systems.

so what I really get out of this is I need to get the wifey to help me rock the RV everyday to keep the fridge happy? :-D

427v8 said:

Very interesting, Thanks for the help. The refridgeration engineer I talked to was an Old Whirlpool guy who worked with compressor based systems.

so what I really get out of this is I need to get the wifey to help me rock the RV everyday to keep the fridge happy? :-D

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Man, I need to get one of these to mount to the side of my bed at home.  How can I make it her Idea?

427v8 said:

Very interesting, Thanks for the help. The refridgeration engineer I talked to was an Old Whirlpool guy who worked with compressor based systems.

so what I really get out of this is I need to get the wifey to help me rock the RV everyday to keep the fridge happy? :-D

Click to expand...

Compressor based systems are very, very, very ,very forgiving of being off level, the only thing that really needs something close to level in them is the ice maker if any and sometimes the drain

Absorption units (RV type refrigerators) seriously need leveling, since it is the combination and seperation of chemicals that transfers the heat, as opposed to circulation of a single chemical under varying pressure

It figures that the least forgiving type is the type we need to use : :

I really don't understand why we need to use this type of system for our rigs.  Why not use a compressor type of system?  It seems that it should be easy to make a unit that runs on both types of heat transfer, one for low/no power mode and one when plugged in or running gen.  That way, the unit would recover much faster in camp mode unless you are stuck boondocking some where then fire up the propane.

I believe the basement fridge is run on compressor right?

Seems to me that you just need bigger/ more alternaters and a large inverter and put in a residential unit and forget about it.

Do any of the more expensive coaches use this type of setup?

427v8 said:

Very interesting, Thanks for the help. The refridgeration engineer I talked to was an Old Whirlpool guy who worked with compressor based systems.

so what I really get out of this is I need to get the wifey to help me rock the RV everyday to keep the fridge happy? :-D

Click to expand...

Look in your your manual for the refer. You will find the specs for being level. It is usually 3 degrees in one direction and 6 degrees in the other. Also keep in mind they are referring to the refer as you face it. Since all refers are mounted with the "front" facing the side all references are different. Side to side would mean front to back as referenced to an RV.

Gasser said:

I really don't understand why we need to use this type of system for our rigs.  Why not use a compressor type of system?  It seems that it should be easy to make a unit that runs on both types of heat transfer, one for low/no power mode and one when plugged in or running gen.  That way, the unit would recover much faster in camp mode unless you are stuck boondocking some where then fire up the propane.

Click to expand...

Recently they have come out with some new compressor motors that run rather well on 12VDC (mine draws about 3 amps but it's a small freezer)  The main reason for using the absorption type cooling unit on motor homes is that we do not always have a lot of electricity handy, This is proven technology that runs off propane (A flame, not a motor) and is highly reliable. exactly what we need.  Plus it is kind of low on moving parts (Gas valve)

Given the options... The absorption units are actually best for this job.  Your basement freezer is an add on and also you don't go in/out as much, so if you shut it off for 8 or 10 hours it likely won't be too bad.

But you might open and close the main fridge while your partner drives so you can make lunch