Anyone ever towed a Rav4?

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lvlyfun

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Apr 6, 2012
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I've got a 2001 manual Rav4. I want to tow it behind the rig I can barely drive now, "just in case" I might need it, and for of course, in town adventures later. Does anyone know how you can safely tow this type of vehicle?
 
I've been towing a 2002 RAV4 for several years, and except for the steeper hills, wouldn't know it was back there if I couldn't see it on the rear view monitor. I've just finished stripping all of the tow gear from the 2002 in preparation for installing everything on our 2011 RAV4. The 2011 uses a different base plate, but everything else will move right over. 
 
So you just dinghy towed it and all was well? No adjustments made? I've heard some horror stories of tranny's going out and such and I can't afford a big boo boo like that. Really can't.  :-\
 
Follow the instructions in the owner's manual for towing 4 down and you'll not have any problems.  The occasions of transmission failure are rare and are almost always due to a failure to follow the proper procedure when setting up for towing.  We have towed 3 different vehicles for over 130,000 miles and have never had a transmission problem, as have thousands of other RVers.
 
As Ned said, set it up properly for towing and you won't have any problems. Your standard transmission will be just fine being towed in neutral. The automatic transmissions used in the RAV4's are a different story though, and cannot be towed four down unless an electric pump made for the purpose, is added to circulate the fluid. You do need to have a base plate installed for connecting the tow bar, along with added wiring to connect the RAV's brake, tail, and directional lights to the motorhome's lights. I also highly recommend an auxiliary brake system be installed. I use a ReadyBrute towbar system that includes an integrated brake system, with a base plate from Blue Ox. 
 
Can't tow a rav 4 all wheel drive as is......mine is all wheel drive. :( I have to get a darn car hauler and those are pricey.....I'm totally bummed!
 
You didn't state AWD originally.  You can tow it but it will need a lube pump from Remco.  I think that would be simpler than a trailer.
 
She has a standard transmission, Ned. There's no lube pump available. I have Remco's lube pump for my automatic AWD. I think the problem is with the transfer case lubrication on the standard.
 
She said standard transmission in the first post and AWD yesterday.  So which is it?  Is there such a thing as AWD manual transmission?
 
I thought the manual transmission with 4 wheel drive had a regular manual transfer case. 4WD is NOT the same as AWD!  From what I can find online, in 2001 the Rav4 manual transmission has a locking center differential which the driver controlled. Not the electronic controlled all wheel drive system that managed the power transfer between front and rear axles on it s own, as in the automatic with AWD.
 
Both of my automatic RAV4's are labeled "4WD". The 2011 has a "Lock" switch for the center differential that disengages above 25 MPH, but my 2002 doesn't have that. I don't think the 2001 standard 4WD or AWD has a neutral position transfer case.
 
I'm just trying to find a way to tow this 01 Rav4 AWD (which weighs 3104).......so I found myself a car hauler at a decent price and now some guy is saying that it will be too much weight to pull behind my RV. So now I'm running around my lovely online numbers to find out how much weight I can pull. (talk about pissing me off) So I called Skyline and they said they only made the box. Then they sent me to the Chassis maker (Chevy).....and I called them and they don't even have my VIN on file anymore cause it's so old. So they did some looking into it and the GVWR is 23501-26000, so my question is what is the weight on the dang box lol. I'm going in circles. I don't think this should be that hard. I only want to tow my car in the case my RV goes out. I feel like brick walls are needing to be torn down like yesterday......and I'm going to be tearing big time. Don't worry guys, you aren't the only ones racking your brains on this one, and I do appreciate all your help.
 
What year/make/model coach are we talking about?  None of the older Chevy chassis have a GVWR anywhere near 23,000 lbs. 17,000 would be closer. Even the newer Workhorse chassis is normally 22,000 lbs.

GVWR isn't the only data you need - you also need GCWR (see the RV Forum Glossary for help) and the actual weight. Then you need to learn the hitch rating as well. No standard Chevy motorhome chassis before about 2000 has a tow rating over 5000 lbs and most are either 3500 or 4000.  Odds are heavy that a trailer plus the car will be more than your coach can handle.
 
1982 Skyline Jamme II (Chevy Chassis). I'm seriously going to have to post a video soon of what I did record so maybe you guys will see something I didn't...Which would be nice :)
 
Really unfortunate your continuing to have so many problems, seriously sounding similar to that movie a number of years ago... The Money Pit.  There is also something else that comes to mind called the 'Sunk Fallacy'.  At some point maybe your going to seriously pause and consider if this RV is going to be manageable for you.  Best of luck, hopefully you can get this all worked out.
 
There is no way the GVWR of that G30 is any where close to 23500. I don't have the specs for a G30 but I do have them for a P30 (thats the class A frame)  and a 137in wheelbase P30 has a GVWR of 12,300  If you go a 178 in wheelbase you go to a  GVWR of 16500.

The max GCWR of a P30 is 21,000. 

Who ever gave you those numbers just made them up or took them from whatever he could find when he could not identify the ones for your G30.
 
Ok the hauler weighs 1500. My car weighs 3104. I think I'm within the 5000 lb towing capacity at 4604. :) I think the man upstairs is on my side on this one. I'll let you all know how it all turns out.......so far so good, even though I'm getting negativity on every board I'm posting on....(which can be kind of intimidating)...I'm pushing through.
 
I think I have read all of your threads.  I sympathise and hope you get the thing where it is usable.

But, some facts of life.

The thing is 30 years old. That classfies for antique plates in most states. Here in Az you could license it as a historic vehicle.

Because of that parts, parts list and shop manuals have long disappeared except for generic RV parts.
Most RV dealers don't want to have to deal with that and prefer that you take it to some small shop and let them try and work out the problems.

RV's use a lot of plastic and by its nature plastic gets brittle with age and just seems to turn to a pile of chips when stressed.  Driving the RV stresses the plastic.

My current RV is 12 years old and I have the same problems. Everytime I drive it or get ready to use it something is broke.  Cabinet latches, switches, and plumbing parts just fail.  Fortunately I have turned wrenches on everything from bicycles to helicopters so I can usually fix it.

My current problem is awnings. They just seem to turn to threads everytime I role one out.

You are going to have the same problem with a car hauler when and if you get it.  Tires, lights and brakes are going to be in a constant state of broke.

You need to find a sugar daddy who owns a garage.
 

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