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Author Topic: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)  (Read 68070 times)

Dougie Brown

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There are several articles on using Red Max Pro 3 floor sealant from Lowes on dull RV paintwork, and we had the honor of watching Pancake Bill working hard on his coach in Yellowstone last fall (we did shout occasional encouragement though as we popped another beer...).

We finally got round to getting the ingredients last week to do the job on our 2000 Adventurer which is badly oxydized.  The decals also need replacement which we're considering doing early next year.

Red Max Pro 3 is not available any more from Lowes (certainly not anywhere in AZ) so we found that Home Depot have it listed as Zep Wet Look Floor Finish.  This is exactly the same product, simply re-badged.  See http://tinyurl.com/7ktf964

I came across an article which I'm reproducing here with thanks to the author.  I have however replaced his references to Red Max Pro 3 with Zep Wet Look Floor Finish (ZWLFF).  The process is working just great for us - we've done a trial one-third of the right side between the rear corner and the awning support leg, and it's already looking great.  We'll finish the rest of the coach this week.
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This process is for older RVs that have lost their shine and no longer respond to conventional wax.

Restoring the finish of an older RV using ZWLFF:

Materials:
-Zep Wet Look Floor finish (Step 3) (available at Home Depot)
-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white, fine)
-Microfiber rags (white or laundered)
-Latex gloves

Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the ZWLFF acrylic coating, and improper prep can also result in peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part! Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your final results will be.

Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the top down.

Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a "flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).

Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the ZWLFF to peel and flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part is done!

Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the ZWLFF well, and pour some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip it into the ZWLFF (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet microfiber rag. Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; ZWLFF is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. The thin coat of ZWLFF will dry very quickly; long before you’ve gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease on life! All for less than $30 total!

*Note: This procedure will slightly change/darken the color/shade of your RV.

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:

-Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.

-Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re just trying to “moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If you are getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily.

-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the ZWLFF is very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. ZWLFF dries fast, so keep an eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set up”.

-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage (steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of ZWLFF across the graphics prior to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the ZWLFF to the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The ZWLFF acrylic coating can sort of “glue” them closed.
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More pictures to follow - this was our trial area which looks better than the picture shows (it's not a great pic), but you can see the difference already. :)

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

Dougie Brown

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Five coats on the really bad side, and a great result.  We'll be attacking the other side and the back over the weekend and should have them finished in a few hours.

« Last Edit: May 10, 2012, 08:21:16 PM by Dougie Brown »
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

PancakeBill

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Looks great Dougie!
Bill & Jolene W & Koda

Old Faithful, Yellowstone Association Bookstore
1997 Southwind 35P
Toads: 1997 Honda Accord & 1986 Westfalia
FMCA F-401354
1995 OMI Dobro F-60
WA1RI

Tom

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Five coats of anything sounds like a lot of work. When you're done, you can come and wax our boat Dougie, but not with floor polish  ;D
Tom.  Need help? Click the Help button in the toolbar above.

Dougie Brown

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Five coats of anything sounds like a lot of work. When you're done, you can come and wax our boat Dougie, but not with floor polish  ;D
To the first point, it's not waxing, it's a piece of...... cake, and it's just wiping a damp cloth over the cleaned and de-oxidized area in a symmetrical pattern (takes 10 mins).

To the second point....

....... NO.

 ::)
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
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Tom

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LOL Dougie. FWIW I use only heavy carnuba paste wax on the old tub; Takes me 21 days  :o
Tom.  Need help? Click the Help button in the toolbar above.

Dougie Brown

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LOL Dougie. FWIW I use only heavy carnuba paste wax on the old tub; Takes me 21 days  :o

That's no way to talk about your wife, Tom!   :o
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

Dougie Brown

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Before and after
« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2012, 09:34:10 PM »
Finished the back, and half the left side (became too hot).  Pretty damn good, I'd say.

The little light bit below the centre brake light was a piece of non-oxydized paintwork.

Dougie.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2012, 09:44:00 PM by Dougie Brown »
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
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PancakeBill

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And you thought I was trying to sell you something!

Bill & Jolene W & Koda

Old Faithful, Yellowstone Association Bookstore
1997 Southwind 35P
Toads: 1997 Honda Accord & 1986 Westfalia
FMCA F-401354
1995 OMI Dobro F-60
WA1RI

Jim Dick

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Bill,

You did, just didn't get any revenue!! ;D ;D
Jim

Titusville, Florida
U.S. Navy Veteran
2000 American Dream 40' DP
2012 GMC Terrain
2006 Suzuki Boulevard C50T Motorcycle
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Dougie Brown

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Och well Bill - it could've been boot polish for all I knew.

Jim, you got it right. :-)

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

Jim Dick

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Dougie,

I know Bill, he's a salesman extraordinaire! ;D ;D ;D
Jim

Titusville, Florida
U.S. Navy Veteran
2000 American Dream 40' DP
2012 GMC Terrain
2006 Suzuki Boulevard C50T Motorcycle
http://photo.net/photos/jimdick

PancakeBill

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Yeah, but next time he is here, I know he will come over with a nice cold beer, and not a Bud Light.
 My reward is that he is loving have hos coach look so good. 

Then again, if it weren't for this place I never would have tried this.  Thanks to the guys that figured it out, just paying it foreword, now it is Dougie's turn.
Bill & Jolene W & Koda

Old Faithful, Yellowstone Association Bookstore
1997 Southwind 35P
Toads: 1997 Honda Accord & 1986 Westfalia
FMCA F-401354
1995 OMI Dobro F-60
WA1RI

Dougie Brown

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You're breaking my heart, Bill.  ;D.  I'll bring some Kiltlifter - that'll keep ya quiet.  ;)
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

loddy

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You  got big feet Dougie  8)

Loddy ;D

drusher

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A few questions from an avid RV restorer:

1. I'm assuming this works on older filon type exteriors that did not have a clear coat
2. If I have clear coat that has gone whitish, does this bring back the color?
3. Does it do anything to brighten up old decals?
4. Does anybody know how long this lasts or what happens when it wears out?

FYI: I know how to reglue delaminated sides without taking the whole side off.  I can post that trick if anybody needs it.

scottydl

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FYI: I know how to reglue delaminated sides without taking the whole side off.  I can post that trick if anybody needs it.

I'm sure someone around here could use that tip eventually.  ;)  Start a new thread and post it!  ;D
Scott, wife, 3 boys... and the dog
- 2008 Forest River Wildwood 32BHDS
- 1995 Chevrolet Suburban C2500 tow vehicle
- 1994 Thor Residency motorhome... owned 2007-2012

flytyer1

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Hello:
 I put it on my 1995 Dolphin with decals that were so faded I thought of stripping them off and 1 and 1/2 years later with it stored outside in CO heat, cold, and trips to the seacoast, I will put a dusting of another coat on this spring--but it still shines.  The grey bottom and the decals really took on a shine that I could not get with any other wax,polish, etc for three years.  Needless  to say I am a believer and it took less than one day to complete the process.  We have since put it on another MH and they are pleased and amazed  also.  The five coats should be thought of a dusting the surface with a cloth--really light applications.
Jerry H

drusher

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I posted my tip about how to repair delamination in the RV restoration section.  It is titled "How to fix delimination without removing exterior fiberglass panels"

scottydl

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I posted my tip about how to repair delamination in the RV restoration section.  It is titled "How to fix delimination without removing exterior fiberglass panels"

Thanks!  Here's the direct link to that thread.
Scott, wife, 3 boys... and the dog
- 2008 Forest River Wildwood 32BHDS
- 1995 Chevrolet Suburban C2500 tow vehicle
- 1994 Thor Residency motorhome... owned 2007-2012

Just Lou

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Re: Red Max Pro 3
« Reply #20 on: April 19, 2013, 10:54:55 AM »
I found four gallon bottles of Red Max Pro #3! Actually, I have six, but I'm keeping two of them. Four are available for sale: $15 each if anyone is interested. From what I've read this is the best stuff in the world for RVs and since it's been relabeled as Zep Wet-Look Floor Finish the price has gone up to $25/gallon.

Good luck at that price.  I bought two 5gal jugs of it on Lowe's close out at 4$ per.  I've been giving it away by the gallon to anyone who wants it.  I still have a life time plus supply.

EDIT - Just for clarification, I didn't mean to imply that the product was no good, I just meant to emphasize that I was NOT selling at a profit.   I'm a solid proponent of RMP-3 (ZEP) use on older RVs.

« Last Edit: April 19, 2013, 11:15:35 AM by Just Lou »
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

Dougie Brown

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Lowes sell Zep at $16.97.  Red Max Pro hasn't been manufactured for some time, so I'm guessing you might have difficulty selling old stock for $15 plus presumably shipping?

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

captsteve

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Yep, That price is high. Plus the fact that a gallon will last a long long time.
Capt Steve has the Conn, Trina navigator ( Admiral )
2004 American Revolution 40c (aka Fat Girl) **Sold**
2017 Ram 1500 (Future Toad)
Piper Archer II  (Where the RV money goes)

Bobtop46

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Nice job and write up.
2007 Coachman Aurora 36FWS
2006 Mini Cooper S

Jemanat2000

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Hello Mr. Brown,

I enjoyed reading your post about using ZEP to restore shine to an oxidized RV.  I do have a few (possibly dumb) questions.

My travel trailer is fiberglass.  One side is new and shiny b/c I took it to the factory to have one side and the roof replaced (due to bad design.  They replaced both for me).  So now I’ve got one side that, of course, looks new and shiny while the other side looks dull.  I’ve tried various types of spray on and wipe on/off waxes… none of it did a bit of good.

1:  Does this ZEP product work on Fiberglass?  I’m not sure what your RV exterior is made from so it was difficult for me to tell if you were working on fiberglass or some other type of exterior; possibly aluminum? 

2: As my RV sits in the yard, and rain water eventually drains out of the gutter pouts and leaves black streaks down the side.  The only thing I’ve been able to find that takes it off is Bleche-White tire cleaner - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Magic-Bleche-Wite-Tire-Cleaner-32-oz/19417551 - but of course it’s horrible for a fiberglass finish.  But I usually give up using expensive “RV Cleaners” that don’t work and use a couple of sprays of Bleche-White and it comes right off with little effort.

Thank you for your help.  I’m really looking forward to getting this stuff together and giving it a shot.  I can’t wait for my RV to be shiny again..!!

Jeff
2008 F-250 6.4 PowerStroke 4x4 CrewCab
Pulling...
2005 Forest River
33' Flagstaff Travel Trailer

Dougie Brown

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1:  Does this ZEP product work on Fiberglass?  I’m not sure what your RV exterior is made from so it was difficult for me to tell if you were working on fiberglass or some other type of exterior; possibly aluminum? 
Firstly, I'm an RV user and not a professional.  My disclaimer here is that I'm not qualified to give advice on bodywork.  Our experiences as reported here are just that - our experiences, and I can only express opinions based on what I know.  That's limited to our research and experiences. :)

My coach as far as I know has fiberglass panels and aluminum locker doors.  Zep is not a polish; it's a sealant which applies coats to the surfaces you're working on.  I can't see why it wouldn't work on anything with perhaps the exception of porous material such as wood (pretty obviously).  In any event, the recommended surfaces will no doubt be on the bottle.  It worked on our RV bodywork as reported above.

I see you've amended what you asked in your email.  I take it you've sourced Barkeeper's Friend and TSP?  We got ours locally in hardware stores (and Walmart, I think).

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

jagnweiner

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Dougie-

I got started doing a test area on mine last night and it does look beautiful (more or less).  One question for you:  My coach is the same year as yours and also a Winnebago product.  The main portion of the sidewall has either checking or little scratches in it that hold dirt or dark staining.  It's only visible from up close.  The door and the lower fiberglass body panels do not.  Did you have this same problem?  I can scrub as much as I want with the BKF and I don't think the dirt (or whatever) is going to come out of these scratches and will just get sealed in when I put the Zep on.  It will still look shiny and much better than before, but not as nice as the lower panels or the door.

Did you have this problem and was there anything that helped?
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

Dougie Brown

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We had the same thing.  I'm sure it's the fiberglass crazing as the door & locker doors are aluminum and don't suffer from it.  As you say, it just got sealed in but is hardly noticeable at all unless you get your reading glasses on & squint at it from 2 inches! :D  You can't put back what's not there, but it sure as hell made it look twenty times better (still does).  Glad it's working for you too.

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

jagnweiner

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Thanks for the reassurance, Dougie.  I'll post pics when I get it done.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

PancakeBill

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Dougie, you making as much on this promotion as I did?



$000,000.00
Bill & Jolene W & Koda

Old Faithful, Yellowstone Association Bookstore
1997 Southwind 35P
Toads: 1997 Honda Accord & 1986 Westfalia
FMCA F-401354
1995 OMI Dobro F-60
WA1RI

jagnweiner

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Progress report:

Got one side completely done yesterday.  Man, it looks nice.  (Sorry, no pics yet, but I'll take some eventually. )  I'm learning a few things as I go.  First, I wish I would have only used the scrubbie and BKF on the bare fiberglass and the decals.  I didn't need to do it on the painted hatches, and it left some scratching.  The scratching disappeared with a few coats of Zep, but it's still there underneath.  I'll skip that step on the other side, which will save time. 

Second, I used the "spray bottle" method for applying the Zep, which I saw elsewhere.  The plus is that it keeps you from over applying and getting runs.  The downside is that I'm pretty sure it takes longer.  It was taking me 20-30 minutes a side to put on a coat of Zep.  As a result, by the time I got 4 coats on, I was bushed.  One more coat might make it look even better, but I didn't have it in me and darkness was falling.

Hopefully I'll finish up next week.  I think my neighbors are starting to think I'm some sort of obsessive RV detailer.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

PancakeBill

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Ahh, but what were you using for liquid refreshment?  OOps, s/b on companion thread.


Bill & Jolene W & Koda

Old Faithful, Yellowstone Association Bookstore
1997 Southwind 35P
Toads: 1997 Honda Accord & 1986 Westfalia
FMCA F-401354
1995 OMI Dobro F-60
WA1RI

jagnweiner

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Heh, heh.  Actually, I got so into it that I didn't even take many refreshment breaks.  I did occasionally take a swig from the garden hose.  Made me feel like I was 12 again.  Nothing tastes better than hose water.  And even though it was not rated for potable water, I didn't die.   ;D  But then that's another thread too.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

Dougie Brown

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Got one side completely done yesterday.  Man, it looks nice.  (Sorry, no pics yet, but I'll take some eventually. )  I'm learning a few things as I go.  First, I wish I would have only used the scrubbie and BKF on the bare fiberglass and the decals.  I didn't need to do it on the painted hatches, and it left some scratching.  The scratching disappeared with a few coats of Zep, but it's still there underneath.  I'll skip that step on the other side, which will save time. 

Second, I used the "spray bottle" method for applying the Zep, which I saw elsewhere.  The plus is that it keeps you from over applying and getting runs.  The downside is that I'm pretty sure it takes longer.  It was taking me 20-30 minutes a side to put on a coat of Zep.  As a result, by the time I got 4 coats on, I was bushed.  One more coat might make it look even better, but I didn't have it in me and darkness was falling.  I'll finish up next week.  I think my neighbors are starting to think I'm some sort of obsessive RV detailer.

Sounds like you're succeeding.  Like you, the best bit for us was seeing the transformation suddenly start to appear with the 3rd coat.  The 5th was the deal-breaker. :)  Interesting re. the hatches.  Ours are in need of another coat or two after extreme Arizona storage & use over 10 months although the main body is great.

Heh, heh.  Actually, I got so into it that I didn't even take many refreshment breaks.  I did occasionally take a swig from the garden hose.  Made me feel like I was 12 again.  Nothing tastes better than hose water.  And even though it was not rated for potable water, I didn't die.   ;D  But then that's another thread too.

You sound suitably wacky enough to apply for British citizenship. ;)

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

jagnweiner

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You sound suitably wacky enough to apply for British citizenship. ;)

Dougie.

Quite possible, Dougie.  I'll take that as a compliment.  :D I don't know if you had similar experiences to this growing up in the UK, but in the midwestern US, when we had been out playing all day in the hot sun, we would get a drink from the garden hose hooked up to the spigot on the outside of the house.  It always tasted deliciously refreshing.  Of course, today kids would probably grab a bottle of water or a sports drink from the fridge.  But again, that's another topic and to keep from starting another tangent that gets split off into the Shade Tree, I shall say no more.  (of course talking about drinking from the hose probably isn't as interesting as talking about beer)
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

Just Lou

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Progress report: I used the "spray bottle" method for applying the Zep, which I saw elsewhere.  The plus is that it keeps you from over applying and getting runs.  The downside is that I'm pretty sure it takes longer.  It was taking me 20-30 minutes a side to put on a coat of Zep.  As a result, by the time I got 4 coats on, I was bushed.  One more coat might make it look even better, but I didn't have it in me and darkness was falling.

Scott, I used an old sponge mop with micro fiber cloth tightly wrapped around it to apply my RMP-3.  I just dipped the mop in the liquid, squeezed it out by hand to no-drip stage (wore vinyl gloves) and could reach from top to bottom of coach without ladder or steps.  On a bright day it's easy to see when the mop required more liquid.

I could go completely around the coach in less than 15 minutes.  The only thing that would slow me down was trying to be careful around the windows.  That stuff is a real pain (no pane pun) to scrape off glass. 
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

jagnweiner

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Lou-

I might try that when I do the rest of the coach.  I'm not sure if I've got an old sponge mop, though, so it might require an additional $15 investment.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

Just Lou

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Lou-
I might try that when I do the rest of the coach.  I'm not sure if I've got an old sponge mop, though, so it might require an additional $15 investment.
Hope you don't have to take that $15 out of the liquid refreshment fund. :D   I had better be careful or they will merge these topics back together again.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

Jim Dick

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Scott,

You forgot to mention you had to let the hose run a little before drinking. otherwise it would have been extremely hot!  ;D ;D

I also pulled carrots and ate them from the garden without rinsing along with parsley!!
Jim

Titusville, Florida
U.S. Navy Veteran
2000 American Dream 40' DP
2012 GMC Terrain
2006 Suzuki Boulevard C50T Motorcycle
http://photo.net/photos/jimdick

Just Lou

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Scott,

You forgot to mention you had to let the hose run a little before drinking. otherwise it would have been extremely hot!  ;D ;D

I also pulled carrots and ate them from the garden without rinsing along with parsley!!

...parsley can be eaten? ??? :-\
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

carson

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  • memories of yore
Between Dandelions and Parsley I'll choose Parsley every time.  Parsley is an aphrodisiac, don't you know ?

Don't buy any more blue pills.    ;D

Carson, 
 West Central Florida
Ex RV'er. (1995 Winnebago Adventurer)
2007 Buick Rendezvous, SUV / CROSSOVER

...Logic works like a charm...

Just Lou

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Between Dandelions and Parsley I'll choose Parsley every time.  Parsley is an aphrodisiac, don't you know ?
Don't buy any more blue pills.    ;D

Yeah! but, I've never heard of Parsley Wine ;)
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

carson

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  • memories of yore
Lou, you haven't lived. I made Dandelion wine one time many years ago. There is a recipe for that.

Don't bother looking it up, it was horrible; same thing for Salal Berry wine. But if you are desperate that's' another story.  A good Scotch beats it every time.
   Is this an RV forum
Carson, 
 West Central Florida
Ex RV'er. (1995 Winnebago Adventurer)
2007 Buick Rendezvous, SUV / CROSSOVER

...Logic works like a charm...

jagnweiner

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Finally got the other side and the front cap done. I haven't bothered with the rear cap yet because it still looks pretty good.

Results are outstanding, IMHO. The pics don't really capture it very well. I think it helps to have a little lower light to see the shine. One thing that is very noticeable in the pics is the mirror. It was completely matte before and is nice and glossy now.

I ditched the spray bottle for this side.  Lou, I didn't do the mop either. Probably would have been quicker. I used the microfiber cloths, but this time I had a bucket with the Zep in it and just dipped the cloth and wrung it out so it wasn't dripping. It went on really quick and I got much better coverage than with the spray bottle.

First photo is before, last two are after. Like I say, difference is a lot more noticeable in person.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

Dougie Brown

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Bootiful. :D  Great job - doesn't it make you feel good?  Microfiber for me every time too - easy to use and (evidently) is completely consistent each time.

Yay. :)
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

Tom

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Quote
I made Dandelion wine one time many years ago.

Same here Carson, but that was back in the home country. Maybe it would be good as a polish for RVs. Surely, it can't be any worse than floor wax  ???
Tom.  Need help? Click the Help button in the toolbar above.

jagnweiner

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Thanks, Dougie. Btw, for anyone planning to do this in the future, I bought a six pack of the microfiber towels. I found that even though I had scrubbed and then washed the coach, the towel used for the first coat got pretty dirty. After the first coat, I just threw that towel away. I was then able to use one more towel for the other three coats on that side. The rest of the coats go on pretty quick and the towel stays clean.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

Just Lou

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Quote from: jagnweiner
Lou, I didn't do the mop either. Probably would have been quicker. I used the microfiber cloths.

LOL if you were 75 (like me) you would appreciate how easy it is to apply with the sponge mop wrapped with a microfiber cloth.

Your rig looks great.

BTW - you will appreciate how easy bugs come off those mirrors now.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

jagnweiner

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LOL if you were 75 (like me) you would appreciate how easy it is to apply with the sponge mop wrapped with a microfiber cloth.

Your rig looks great.

BTW - you will appreciate how easy bugs come off those mirrors now.

Funny you say that, Lou. Honestly, when I was posting that I thought about adding "because I'm still young enough to go up and down the ladder."  ;D. But I didn't want to be rude.

On the mirrors, no bugs would be nice, but my biggest mirror problem is that in the field where I park it, there is a bird that likes to sit on the passenger side view mirror (just the passenger) and repeatedly crap all over the mirror.  >:(
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

Just Lou

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Get one of those little bobblehead owls and stick it on the mirror.  No more birddo.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

jagnweiner

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Hey, that's a great idea!
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

PancakeBill

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  • Bill & Jolene/USA 97 Southwind 35P
    • WorKamping in Yellowstone
Back to shiny stuff.

303  great stuff for the poly things.  I have one of those Yalima rooftop boxes, bought used, been outside, faded and dirty.  Cleaned it from the dust and grime, and put on the 303.  Awesome.
Bill & Jolene W & Koda

Old Faithful, Yellowstone Association Bookstore
1997 Southwind 35P
Toads: 1997 Honda Accord & 1986 Westfalia
FMCA F-401354
1995 OMI Dobro F-60
WA1RI

ChiefM

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Jag,
Did you put a new sticker on the side of the coach?

The first picture does not show the word Horizon on the side of your rig and the other 2 do. What gives???

The deployment has been called off and I am going back to my regular job at the shop at the end of the month. I am going to start using the BKF on the outside of the Titanic tonight. Looks like I get to drive the old girl home the end of the month.
1986 27RT Winnebago Chieftain/Sold
Window Shopping for replacement

jagnweiner

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Chief-

I did put new "Horizon" decals on each side.  It is a two tone decal, with lighter color around the edge.  The originals looked awful, with the lighter colored edge peeling away.  My original plan was to use a razor blade to trim around each letter to remove the peeling part.  Then I discovered that I could buy new decals for $19.  Easy decision.  It actually includes the "Itasca" as well, but I didn't need to replace that part. 

I added the decall after I had scrubbed, but before applying the Zep.  This actually provides an example of how the photos are not really representative.  Where I scraped off the old decal, it's pure white clean fiberglass, while everything else is cream colored with checking.  It's quite obvious in person but barely shows up in the photo at all.

Look forward to seeing the rejuvenated Titanic.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

ChiefM

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You have it looking outstanding. I will have to put the rest of the work on the Titanic on hold for a little while. I am
going back to my shop and the sequestration is starting to kick in now. I will be loosing a grand a month in pay so we have to live on the cheap for a little while :-[

I have the ridge panels on my MH, I hope it turns out as good as yours when i do it.
1986 27RT Winnebago Chieftain/Sold
Window Shopping for replacement

jagnweiner

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I am going back to my shop and the sequestration is starting to kick in now. I will be loosing a grand a month in pay so we have to live on the cheap for a little while :-[


Me too.  :( But we've been planning our Utah trip since I was in Afghanistan so we are following through with it and just eating into savings.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

ChiefM

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The barkeepers worked great on the side panels, so good I might have to do the whole MH with the bar keepers and then the ZEP. I have plans to go to the Talladega race in October, might still go but might have to do the free camping instead of the infield.
1986 27RT Winnebago Chieftain/Sold
Window Shopping for replacement

mars

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Hi Dougie...I'm new here and was enjoying reading the various posts...yours, however, caught my attention...I plan on using Zep Wet Look Floor Finish on my '98 fiberglass motorhome....the front and back definitely have to be done but the two sides still have very little shine to them...my question is, should I use the same process as the oxidized front and back??   Thanks in advance for your reply...

Mars    (Marcel)

PS: By the way, I'm from Quebec, Canada   :) 

jagnweiner

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Yes, do all four sides. The Zep is essentially adding a shiny clear coat finish even if there is no shine.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

Stella

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What a great tutorial!

Hey- for clarification: white streaks on older decals is good to use BKF and scrubbie?
Stella
Wife, mother and professional artist
Proud owner of "The Vortex" (named as such because it sucks in nerds) a 1997 30' Gulf Stream Sun Sport.
Co-Pilot is our Golden Retriever, Miss Poppy.


LIFE IS GOOD!

jagnweiner

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Stella-

It's worth a shot.  The BKF probably won't do any more damage to the decals.  I scrubbed my decals as well as the fiberglass.  My only caution would be not to scrub so hard that the decals come off.
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

mars

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Yes, do all four sides. The Zep is essentially adding a shiny clear coat finish even if there is no shine.

Thanks Scott   :)

mars

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I was wondering if there was any substitute for BKF (Bar Keeper's Friend)??  I checked at Home Depot here in Quebec, Canada and haven't found any..
Would comet be a good replacement??

Thanks,

Mars

Tom

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Mars, I don't know about substitutes, but I saw BKF in an Ace Hardware store down here in California yesterday. I've never looked for it in a Home Depot store. Do you have Ace Hardware stores up there?
Tom.  Need help? Click the Help button in the toolbar above.

catblaster

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I was thinking of Bon Ami if you have it up there. It is rumored that mechanics used it in aircraft engines for a quick break-in during WW2 in the Pacific due to the lack of new parts. Very mild like BKF.
Will and Jane
95 Winnebago Luxor

Just Lou

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The problem that I would see in using Bon Ami or Comet is the residue that has to be removed while wet (serious wiping and rinsing).  The residue from BKF is much easier to remove.  That's why Bar Keep's and restaurant folks prefer it.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

mars

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Thanks Tom, Will and Lou for your replies...I've found some at ''Canadian Tire Stores''...We even have some in my small town...''Home Hardware'' also has it...Here's what they write about Bar Keeper's Friend...

Overview
.



Powders

•Bar Keepers Friend is an all natural professional powder cleanser
•At Bar Keepers Friend we use environment-friendly ingredients derived from rhubarb so it is non-toxic and biodegradeable
•Contains no phosphates, bleach, or abrasive crystalline silica which may harm many surfaces
•Contains no hazardous chemicals or perfumes, and we DO NOT test on animals
•Gently removes stains other cleansers can't
•Can be used to clean and polish stainless steel, porcelain, ceramic tile, plastic, copper, china, fiberglass, imitation marble, tile, grout, chrome, and composition sinks
•Removes coffee and tea stains, gray marks on porcelain, and even mineral deposits left in tubs and toilets
•Bar Keepers Friend will even remove rust
•Also recommended for cleaning Artisan, Blanco, Delta Faucet, Eljer, Elkay, Franke, Keidel, MIXA, Pfeifer, Rachiele, Revere, and Wedgwood premium sinks



Thanks again!!  Now I just have to get to work...Just can't wait to see the result..Hope it makes me one happy camper... ;)

Dougie Brown

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Just spent the morning re-doing the locker doors on one side as the finish had become worn-looking.  That section was our first effort last year, and after we did the rest of the coach the following week, we realized we'd not done such a great job on the first bit.  Needless to say, it's come up grrr-eaatt.  The rest of the coach still looks good to the extent that we get regular comments from folks saying it's nice to see a glossy older coach.

Good ol' Zep. :)

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

Deano2002

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A few questions from an avid RV restorer:

1. I'm assuming this works on older filon type exteriors that did not have a clear coat
2. If I have clear coat that has gone whitish, does this bring back the color?
3. Does it do anything to brighten up old decals?
4. Does anybody know how long this lasts or what happens when it wears out?

FYI: I know how to reglue delaminated sides without taking the whole side off.  I can post that trick if anybody needs it.
  I have a de-lamination on my 1990 that i need some instruction on
1989 Champion LaSalle 34' project

ceemike

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #69 on: August 29, 2013, 09:06:56 PM »
After reading about the success Dougie Brown, Pancake Bill, Lou and others have had shining up their rigs with ZEP, the DW & I decided to give it a try on our 2004 Brave.  The prep work was very time consuming, and we had to use bleach to remove what looked like mildew on the back and sides of our coach.  The BKF wouldn't touch it.  We put four coats on the front, back and right side today and they look great.  Tomorrow we finish up the left side. 

We put the ZEP only on the white, unpainted fiberglass and the graphics.  We decided to use regular auto wax on the painted parts of the body, like the storage bay doors. 

The coach hasn't looked this good in the four years we've owned it.  Thanks to everyone who supplied the info & directions on how to do this.

I attached some before and after pics and a pic of the black spots that only came off with bleach.
Mike & Judy Wagner
From the Keystone State
FMCA F418448
WIT # W161150
2004 Winnebago Brave 32V, W20 Chassis
2004 Honda CRV

Dougie Brown

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #70 on: August 30, 2013, 03:54:24 AM »
Good job!  It is hard work, but well worth it. :)

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

tnguy

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #71 on: September 04, 2013, 11:52:36 AM »
ok i "tried" reading through this whole post looking to see if it works on aluminum siding on a travel trailer???  i got so distracted looking at all the motorhome pictures i lost track of what i started out doing LOL :)

thanks

ceemike

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #72 on: September 09, 2013, 12:55:57 PM »
Dougie,

Now that we put the ZEP on our coach, we took it on a trip last week and we want to wash the road grime off of it.  When you wash your coach do you use just water or do you use a car wash type detergent or soap?  We don't want to use something that will mess up the nice shine.
Mike & Judy Wagner
From the Keystone State
FMCA F418448
WIT # W161150
2004 Winnebago Brave 32V, W20 Chassis
2004 Honda CRV

jagnweiner

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #73 on: September 09, 2013, 12:58:31 PM »
Detergent shouldn't be a problem.  The Zep is an acrylic coating that requires a special stripper to remove. 
-Scott
2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD

ceemike

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #74 on: September 09, 2013, 01:02:47 PM »
Scott, thanks.
Mike & Judy Wagner
From the Keystone State
FMCA F418448
WIT # W161150
2004 Winnebago Brave 32V, W20 Chassis
2004 Honda CRV

Dougie Brown

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #75 on: September 09, 2013, 01:06:03 PM »
Wot Scott said. ;)

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

rvandrew

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #76 on: September 10, 2013, 01:54:55 AM »
Have put 4 coats of Zep so far on the MH.  A definite shine upgrade as described in this thread---thanks for the tip.  One thing I have noticed: the Zep tends to coagulate on my latex gloves, transfers to the microfiber cloth and leave little specks when applied to the MH.  I change my gloves halfway through the process to minimize.  Maybe I spend too much time, but it takes me about 2 hours per coat (using a ladder to reach the high spots); there are worse ways to unwind in the sun after work!
A. Craig
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U
Workhorse Chassis W-22
"Cousin Eddy"

Dougie Brown

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #77 on: September 10, 2013, 03:39:26 AM »
It's true you do have to be careful with the waxy adhesions, but I found that they only collect on the gloves if they're allowed to dry out.  If you resrict yourself to immersing the fingers into your bowl/container/whatever, they shouldn't develop the flakes until you're done.

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

JoAnn

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #78 on: September 15, 2013, 10:16:39 AM »
Following this thread.  It sounds like just what we need.  Thanks for sharing!!!

JoAnn
The worst day on vacation is better than a day at work

driftless shifter

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #79 on: September 15, 2013, 10:25:56 AM »
Try a bucket of water and an old towel to dip and dry your gloved hands. The gloves don't need to be bone dry, just not shiny wet. Or buy a 50 pair box of vinyl gloves at the drugstore and change often. I used the blue long cuff re-useable type from hardware store.

Bill
Bill & Nan
(o\_!_/o)
93 bounder 34, chevy chassis
couple of aircooled vw's, 1 fast(sold), 1 reliable(sold).  Dubless : (
USN '76-'80, 1 boat, USS Blandy, DD 943.
I'm an analog guy in a digital age.

Just Lou

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #80 on: September 15, 2013, 10:39:29 AM »
Wearing gloves is certainly advised, but a lot of the problem can be avoided by wrapping (and securing) the micro fiber cloth around  the head of a sponge mop and dipping the mop in the liquid.  You will have to wring out the excess, but you will also get much more area coverage per dip.  Works for me.  I can make three trips around the rig in less than 30 minutes.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

mgfiest

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #81 on: October 06, 2013, 04:29:06 AM »
Glad I found this thread... very interesting.. was going to buy Shine On which cost about 4x what Zep can do. My 20 yo beast needs a major facelift and this could be my answer... ;)

Seeing this is an interior product... What effect on the shine when it comes to UV... any comments on this

I want to remove my old pin stripping... not sure if I want to put them back on... BUT... if I put on the Zep... and then decide to put back the pin stripping... will it stick

Thanks

Mike

tnguy

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #82 on: October 06, 2013, 09:17:12 AM »
Glad I found this thread... very interesting.. was going to buy Shine On which cost about 4x what Zep can do. My 20 yo beast needs a major facelift and this could be my answer... ;)

Seeing this is an interior product... What effect on the shine when it comes to UV... any comments on this

I want to remove my old pin stripping... not sure if I want to put them back on... BUT... if I put on the Zep... and then decide to put back the pin stripping... will it stick

Thanks

Mike

1, i think i would do the pin stripe first or id say it wouldnt stick at all. (you have to clean any wax off anything to stick something to it)

2, i did my TT about 3 months ago and it sits out in the direct sun and it hasnt fazed it a bit still looks like the day i put it on :)

tnguy

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #83 on: October 06, 2013, 09:18:56 AM »
also a tip (maybe)  i put my wax in a spray bottle and sprayed a small amount on the TT then rubbed it in works great and no open cans/bottles to get spilt ;)


driftless shifter

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #84 on: October 06, 2013, 09:36:01 AM »
The wet look floor finish is not a wax, there is no wax in it. It is an acrylic clear coat. Washes up with ammonia. Each successive coat dissolves and merges with previous coat. I went right over my vinyl stripes, then stumbled into info about it lifting off of dark graphics in southern sun and heat. It sure does revive the shine.

Bill
Bill & Nan
(o\_!_/o)
93 bounder 34, chevy chassis
couple of aircooled vw's, 1 fast(sold), 1 reliable(sold).  Dubless : (
USN '76-'80, 1 boat, USS Blandy, DD 943.
I'm an analog guy in a digital age.

james baker

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #85 on: October 25, 2013, 01:17:46 AM »
I have a 1996 Allegro and I used the ZEP and I put 5 coats on mine about a year and a half ago it still gooks great. I live in Texas and there  is plenty of sun and heat. No sign of yellowing, it brought back my decals and I have added additional pin striping over the ZEP it is sticking very well. As earlier posts Zep is like clear coating and it bonds to previous applications. My basement doors were painted metal they are holding up great. My friend had a old fiberglass ranger boat 1974 I believe we did his boat and he was so pleased with it he went and  bought new seat and carpet.
1996 Allegro 29 ft gas, tow 1991 miata mx5 restored  Gun Barrel City Texas

Dougie Brown

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #86 on: October 28, 2013, 07:14:38 PM »
.......he was so pleased with it he went and  bought new seat and carpet.

So not such a cheap solution then.  ;)

Dougie.
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G (F53 chassis, Ford 6.8 V10 gas)
1999 Ford Escort SE (2.0L 4cyl gas)
Brits spending half each year in the US and/or Canada
www.rv-and.us

driftless shifter

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Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #87 on: October 29, 2013, 09:16:29 AM »
So not such a cheap solution then.  ;)

Dougie.

Always look on the bright side of life.
Cheap inspiration!  ;)
Bill & Nan
(o\_!_/o)
93 bounder 34, chevy chassis
couple of aircooled vw's, 1 fast(sold), 1 reliable(sold).  Dubless : (
USN '76-'80, 1 boat, USS Blandy, DD 943.
I'm an analog guy in a digital age.

Redbeard

  • Posts: 4
ok i "tried" reading through this whole post looking to see if it works on aluminum siding on a travel trailer???  i got so distracted looking at all the motorhome pictures i lost track of what i started out doing LOL :)

thanks

I to would like to know if this works with the painted aluminum trailers.......

rebelsun

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  • Don't confuse kindness for weakness
Detergent shouldn't be a problem.  The Zep is an acrylic coating that requires a special stripper to remove.
And make sure, when you pick up that special stripper, to get her a new stripper pole...
Also remember to tip her well.........
Riding the Highway through Hell in our 2000 Chevy 3500 Gulfstream Class C, with a
Honda Shadow AERO motorcycle and trailer in tow.
From: Boston, Ma.
Retired and living in Palm Bay, Fl.

Just Lou

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I to would like to know if this works with the painted aluminum trailers.......
It might work fine on non-polished, or even polished aluminum, but I got some on my bright metal wheel simulators and it gave them a hazy look.  I had to remove it.
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

PiRsquare

  • Posts: 3
This looks like what I am looing for my 2004 sightseer looks so old - this past winter was very hard on it.

When it starts to dull do you have to strip it all off and start over or just wash and apply another (some) more coats?

catblaster

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Mine looked great for a long time but got hazy and spots that looked like mold formed under the coating. It's a real problem to remove, so far I've used the stripper mixed, straight, lacquer thinner (works best but I cant handle the fumes), pressure sprayer, ammonia, 409, and finally I sanded it with 1000 grit wet or dry and polished with 3M compound.  Half of it is done and it looks better than it ever has.
Will and Jane
95 Winnebago Luxor

Just Lou

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Will,
What constitutes "a long time"?
Mine has been on since 2011 and still looks great.  Hope I'm not getting to it's end of life.

We have the same potential mold and mildew problems here in NC that you have in Fla, so that concerns me a little.  I did put on a refresher coat last spring, and I put a small amount of bleach in my wash water which may have discouraged any mold growth.

I've been a big proponent of RMP-3 and ZEP, so I hate to hear the my baby has an ugly side. ;) :D
'97 Bounder 34V (F53 w/tag), '99 Honda Accord EX

catblaster

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I know what you mean Lou, I was sold on it too. I think I had one of  my buddies put it on in January of 2012 about the time I went on oxy and he went on unemployment. That makes 2 1/2 years. I made the mistake of pressure washing it with a 3000psi sprayer. That took some of it off and probably pushed some moisture into the coating.

The 1000 grit sanding and polishing is the way to go if a person has the time and ability. The old girl looks better than she ever has and has changed color towards the lighter side also. I expect the drivers side to take me a week to sand and polish.
Will and Jane
95 Winnebago Luxor

driftless shifter

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  • A Luddite with a stupid phone
Quick report on mine, not quite a year later. 4 coats and RV has been parked 99% of the time, same side facing south. South side now looks like the Zep was absorbed by the old paint. The south side  of the fiberglass front cap still looks like I just did it, so does the north side and rear cap. Rear cap has no side exposure. I intended 1 or 2 more coats this year anyway as I really cut into the paint, you could feel the deepness of the oxidization with your fingertips.

Bill
Bill & Nan
(o\_!_/o)
93 bounder 34, chevy chassis
couple of aircooled vw's, 1 fast(sold), 1 reliable(sold).  Dubless : (
USN '76-'80, 1 boat, USS Blandy, DD 943.
I'm an analog guy in a digital age.

CRRPastor

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  • Posts: 22
Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #96 on: August 19, 2015, 03:33:24 PM »
I am so glad I ran across this thread a few weeks ago. We have a 95 Newmar Kountry Star. And I can say that 38 ft feels more like 38 miles when you're struggling with how to restore the finish. But in just 15 hours or so I have singlehandedly turned my land boat into a yacht using this method. Can't say enough thank you's to Doug.

« Last Edit: August 19, 2015, 03:35:49 PM by CRRPastor »
Terry & Colleen
2004 Newmar Mountain Aire 3778
New Mexico
"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in a large crowd."

eldcas57

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  • Posts: 48
Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #97 on: August 30, 2015, 08:23:25 PM »
Hello

I've been reading through this thread for couple days now debating whether I should try it or not.  Well I finally broke down and purchased
Doug's suggested list of items and went to work today.  I'm not finished with the M/H yet but with the section that I did get finished I was amazed at how good it looks.  We have a 1999 Rexhall Aerbus, it still looks good but the fiber-glass ends were starting to lose their shine, I can say not no more.  Question:  once it's finished and it has the road grime back on it, if I understand what I've been reading mild soap and water will clean, it up can you at some point wax that area?

Eldon and Bert (Roberta)
Eldon & Bert
Buddy & Cali, the Critters
U.S. Army Retired
1999 Rexhall Aerbus 3550 BSL
Triton V10

james baker

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  • Posts: 38
Re: Bodywork shine - Red Max Pro 3 no longer avail - ZEP is same product :-)
« Reply #98 on: September 12, 2015, 05:11:00 PM »
I posted in Oct of 2013 That I ZEPed my 1996 Allegro about a year and a half ago it now has been 3 and a half years I have fiberglass end caps and sides my doors are aluminum and painted I applied ZEP to all areas and have done a light touch up coat to caps and the basement doors. The sides still look great. No signs of cracking or flaking. I use DAWN dish soap to wash my coach. I have a good friend he has a 1994 Winne Brave we did his coach about a year ago he was going to get it repainted so now he is totally sold on the ZEP . My coach sits outside about 10 mos. a year in the TEXAS sun. I think the secret to a good job is all in the prep of the coach Bar Keepers Friend and scrub it completely and apply ZEP with a micro fiber towel  and very thin coats. I did 5 coats. Touch up with Zep same thing thin coats.  Keep the shining   
1996 Allegro 29 ft gas, tow 1991 miata mx5 restored  Gun Barrel City Texas

JoeFatz

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sorry to drag up such an old post, lots of good detailed information but I still have at least one question.
my mh has yellowed, or at least it appears yellowed, maybe yellow is a bad way to describe it, its off white, not sure if thats the original color although it doesnt match the painted front clip. will this method remove the yellowing?
another ?, I have taken a polisher and hit a few areas, I used nothing more than mothers carnauba cleaner wax and the spots are very smooth and shine a lot better than the area around it I did not do, does it make sense to go through this process or should I possibly just polish and call it done.
Retired at a young age, but that doesn't mean I forgot anything

driftless shifter

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  • Posts: 2409
  • A Luddite with a stupid phone
You have to determine if the yellow is oxidization or not. If it is oxidization it needs to be removed before any product will give satisfying results. Poor preparation is what leads to the poor results of yellowing and flaking. You are essentially doing a finish restoration It can be done either by spending lots of money for professional job or lots of elbow grease for a DIY. It took me three days of prep and not even half a day for application of Zep Wet Look Floor Finish. First application lasted over 2 years, when it needed a second application the first application looked like it had simply evaporated. No yellowing, flaking, or any other surface issues, Just a good wash and reapply.

Bill
Bill & Nan
(o\_!_/o)
93 bounder 34, chevy chassis
couple of aircooled vw's, 1 fast(sold), 1 reliable(sold).  Dubless : (
USN '76-'80, 1 boat, USS Blandy, DD 943.
I'm an analog guy in a digital age.

JoeFatz

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  • Posts: 171
Thank you. 
Today I got some commercial bleach and did a 50/50 mix, its amazing what this stuff does.
It appears the panels are an off white color but the bleach mixture is cleaning all of the areas that have that cracked look, I really don't have much oxidation, other than on the stickers, just more of a dirty coach. I cleaned on 6x6 area with the bleach and rinsed it real good, let it dry and cloped on some wax by hand, the shine is incredible.
I think I may get it clean and make the zep process a project for later down the road.
I believe its been a few years since it was properly cleaned.
Retired at a young age, but that doesn't mean I forgot anything

KSJim

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  • Posts: 28
Where do you find the "White" scrubbies?  I've found green, blue, red but no white ones.
Jim D
South Central Ks
1996 Four Winds XL

 

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