North To Alaska

You haven't mentioned it but have you seen the Northern Lights? It should be getting dark enough at night to see them.

We've crossed the border 5 times and have seen all types of behavior. What was the jerk-like stuff this guy did?

We had mostly the same experiences with the Canadian border guards Marsha.  They make you feel like you are not welcome, you are hiding something, and you have some dark secret for wanting to come into the country.  I know just how Tim felt.  I wanted to yell at them, "hey idiot! I am a tourist here to spend money and add to your economy! What part of that don't you understand?"  But I didn't.  Instead I just stared them in the eye and answered every question without hesitation.  I think they pride themselves in being difficult. 

One of my "happy moments" was when I realized that I had went through my last Canadian border crossing.  The happiest one was when the American border guard said "Welcome Home!"

Don, when we were in Fairbanks we had cloud cover most of the last couple of nights there.  We tried to see them; but didn't.  Seeing the Northern Lights is on my "bucket list".  Tim and I have even considered flying up to Fairbanks during Jan/Feb so I can see them.  However when we price the air fare and hotels we might change our mind!    ;D

We did see the movie about the Northern Lights while at the University of Fairbanks Museum of the North.  Did you know that the UofF had done extensive studies?  They found that the exact same movements of the northern lights occurs at both the North Pole and South Pole.  It was an interesting movie.

Marsha~

The Border Agent was curt and actually rude.  Like Marty experienced, he asked where were we going and wanted to know specifically just what cities we were going through and what was our purpose for going through "his" checkpoint and through Canada.  Did we have more than $10,000.00 on us (I wish) and did we have any firearms.  It wasn't so much his questions, but the tone and the implication.  At the end of the conversation, Tim said: "great weather we are having" and the agent just said "sure" and turned away and walked away from the window. 

We've been in and out of Canada a lot in the last 6-7 years and I know they don't smile and don't want to interact with trivial stuff; but being polite is common courtesy.  Usually we are pretty understanding and easy going about this stuff; but this agent was over the line.

Marsha~

We just crossed into Canada between Calais, ME and St Stepen, NB and the Canadian agent couldn't have been nicer. I questioned him about using the old crossing in the middle of town instead of the new commercial crossing and he said we could but spent a couple of minutes discussing how much nicer the new 4 lane highway was compared to the traffic in town.

When we started to pull out it was "Enjoy your stay in Canada".

The US agent at Houlton, ME had a few more questions the other day but also finished up with "Welcome home".

    Marsha, it seems to be par for the course, we have not felt comfortable crossing into the US since 9/11.  The questions you were asked, are always asked of us by the US border guards, along with a few other standard questions.  However, one of the most frustrating is a need to provide a US destination when crossing the border even in the motorhome.  We had one who insisted on us providing an itinerary of where we were going, how long we were staying at each location, and when we were planning on leaving the US.  When our daughter and her 2 children fly down, they must provide the address where we are located, and a phone number, even if we are on the move to pick her up.
  As for the question about the money you are carrying, you can thank the US legislation concerning the "War on Drugs".  The $10,000 amount is merely an arbitrary figure above which transactions need to be reported to the respective Proceeds of Crime departments for most countries around the world, and we are regularly asked when crossing either way.

Ed 

I don't remember any issues with border crossings on our trip to Alaska, but I do remember the many crossings we made from Vermont and Maine were all very pleasant. We even had an Canadian agent at a crossing from North Troy Vermont ask if he could see the inside of the motorhome - he didn't inspect anything, he just wanted to see inside. He was very nice and asked how we were getting to our destination. He then gave us a better route with clear directions ( we were going to a FMCA chapter rally in Quebec).

ken

Adding to Ed's comments, the US has a reporting requirement for amounts of $10,000 or more coming into or going out of the country. The question is standard on the 'landing card' anyone entering the US by air fills out on the plane and hands to the Border Patrol officer on arrival. The same reporting requirement applies to electronic money transfers in or out, such as wire transfers. This is not something new or even recent. From someone who has traveled to/from the US countless times since the 70's, and has transferred money in both directions since the early 80's.

I don't expect 'friendly service' from a border agent while entering any country, but Canadian border agents have been among the most friendly I've encountered anywhere. Anyone can have a bad day, and there have been numerous reports here on the forum of 'unfriendly' US border agents.

FWIW I've crossed borders in far away lands where I had to 'declare' all the loose change in my pocket, going into and out of the country.

We've been back and forth into/out of Canada on lots of occasions.  This is the first time we've felt this way.  I should probably give the agent break.  The really horrible road was right before going through his checkpoint.  I'm sure lots of people complained loudly to him about it.  Also, his border crossing is right out in the middle of nowhere and he probably had miles to drive from home to the "office".  So, I should cut him some slack; but being civil is the polite thing to do. 

Marsha~

Marsha/CA said:

I'm sure lots of people complained loudly to him about it.  Also, his border crossing is right out in the middle of nowhere and he probably had miles to drive from home to the "office". 
Marsha~

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You know what? Tough beans. It comes with the territory. He should have know what it was going to be like when he signed up. And if he didn't then shame on him.  I'm sorry, but that is what life in the public service sector is all about.  I used to tell my probationers that if they wanted somebody to smile at them and be cheery all day, they should go get a different job. 

I understand being professional. And I understand stress. But that is NO reason to take it out on your customers.  There is no excuse for RUDE.  I'll get off my soapbox now. 

I guess I should comment.  We have never had a bad border crossing either into Canada or back into the US.  I just cannot ever remember a pleasant crossing into Canada.  The guards must be trained to treat people as criminals, keep a constant frown on their face and generally act rude.  If there wouldn't be such dire consequences I would offer the next one I encounter a can of prunes.  I have always had a pleasant crossing back into the US..maybe they are just glad we came back home.  One note..the crossing from Hyder back into Canada was nice and the guards even asked what we did this time during our crossing.  I think maybe those guards were summer part-time jobs for the high school students because they looked very young.

Tim Lassen said:

We have never had a bad border crossing either into Canada or back into the US.  I just cannot ever remember a pleasant crossing into Canada. 

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Huh?

Oops..sorry Betty, guess I have been hanging around my wife a lot lately.  I meant we have never had a problem at a crossing but have never met a pleasant Canadian border agent..

They say fools rush in where angels fear to tread, however here goes. As a naturalized US citizen, my experience with getting back into the US has always been fraught with unpleasantness. As soon as they hear my accent the suspicion antennas raise up a notch or two. Most of the time I try to say as little as possible and let my husband do the talking, if possible. It is just plain tiresome dealing with that.

On the otherhand with our numerous crossings into Canada we have yet to encounter an unfriendly agent. The same goes for traveling in Europe and the UK.  Maybe we all just experience life differently.  :    Some days we are lucky, others not so lucky.
Mariekie.

Ok, let's get back on tract. 

The rain has returned (oh joy!!!) and we are heading down the Alaskan Highway to Jake's Corner then going south to Taglish.  There is supposed to be a government or territorial dry camp about 12 miles from the intersection of the Alaska Highway and the road down to Atlin.  Tim wants to see Atlin, so we'll stay in the area and drive the little tow car down the 60 some miles on a "first portion paved-last portion gravel" road.  Atlin is the most northwesterly town of British Columbia where lots of gold panning was done.  It must be a bit of a community as they have a "Globe Theater", a couple of restaurants, a large Inn and a RV park.  The town is situated on a lake.

Yesterday we drove 70 or so miles up the Klondike Road toward Dawson going as far as Breaburn where the famous cinnamon rolls are made.  We gave it some thought, but the rolls were the size of a 9" dinner plate.  I actually pushed a little on the outside and it was pretty hard, so I'm thinking they might have been a couple of days old.  It would still taste good dunking into a cup of coffee; but we passed on getting one.  Instead we got a large  peanut butter cookie and split it.  On the drive up and back to Whitehorse we passed a number of very large beaver dams; even stopped and watched with the binoculars to see if we could spot one.  But they were probably taking an afternoon nap. 

The one thing I wish we had done with this trip was to allow time to actually go to Dawson and to visit the Tombstone National Park.  We've heard from several people that the Tombstone park is just breathtaking....maybe next time.

We will probably not have internet at the government park.

Marsha~

After getting groceries, doing laundry and paying bills, we head further east toward Tagish/Carcross and the drive down to Atlin.  The turn off for Atlin Highway #8 is 60 some miles from Whitehorse.  It?s is sunny and beautiful.  The turn off is at Jakes Corner, we then travel 12 more miles on a good paved 2 lane road to the community of  Tagish.  It?s not much.  A gas station/auto repair facility and a caf? with a couple of places to park a motor home or trailer. 

I have research the government campground here and they have sites big enough for our coach; some are in the trees and then there is a wide open area for ANY size rig.  We decide on one in the trees, so instead of backing in, we pull in straight looking right into the forest of trees.  Facing out would have put us looking out over the large gravel area and closer to the road. 

It only takes a few minutes to set up as this is dry camping.  After getting all settled in, we realize the campground has free firewood and we have this neat large metal fire ring along with a picnic table.  Tim pulls out his hammer and chisel and tries to split a small log.  Fat chance, he?ll run a good chisel and it ain?t gonna work.  Because I?m the one who want the campfire,  I decide to get into the car and run into town to quickly find out there really is no more town, only a gas/auto repair facility and a caf? with a few sites for campers.  I drive into the caf? thinking maybe they have a store of some sort.  No such luck, however I do meet the owner of the caf?.  I tell him I?m looking for an axe to split the wood over at the government campground.  Well, he not only loans me one ax; but sends me home with 2.  Tim makes quick use of both axes, so now we have enough split wood for two nights.  I really don?t like campfire smoke; but for some reason with the Fall atmosphere, it sounded like fun.  Oh, I did return the axes and thanks to the Yukon gentleman.

On Sunday we drove close to 60 miles to the little town of Tagish.  The drive started out on paved roads in the Yukon, then about half way we crossed into British Columbia and the road became hard packed dirt.  It wound through the rolling hills.  Just after we began the trip, we stopped at a gravel pull off to look at the lake.  There were several truck campers parked with boat trailers.  Apparently, this is a big fishing area for lake trout and large pike.  Just after we got out, a man sitting in his truck warned us that a mamma black bear and her cubs were very near in the underbrush right neat the outhouse.  We rounded up Charlie who was running around loose poking his nose into everything and talked to the man for a while.  He and his friend were waiting until the bears left before they put their boat in the water.

There were lots of government campgrounds along this drive; many of them right on lakes or streams and they looked like fun; but no place you would want to take a big rig.  We also noticed their stacked up firewood was already split!!!

Tagish is very unique.  A couple of folks had told us Tagish is also often called  ?little switzerland? .  It is on an inlet with a couple of pretty good sized mountains out from the bay.  However what is unique is an island right out in front of the town with a mountain right in the middle.  Several glaciers are visible.  We drove through town, found a little place to get lunch and then drove back.  Both of us remarked that being this remote we were surprised not to see any wildlife at all.  Minutes later a huge black bear crossed the road in front of us.

The campers parked next to us are fun; in fact they are very interesting folks.  They are from Whitehorse and live in a ?dry? cabin.  They also close the cabin up in the winter and go to Quartzsite for 4 months; what a small world.  We talked politics, favorite campgrounds; and the best route into the lower 48.

They explained to us how living in their dry cabin, which is about 20 miles from where we are camped, is actually accomplished.  It is a 2 story small cabin right on Marsh Lake, in fact their upstairs deck sticks out over the lake.  They have electricity, including electric heat, but don?t always use it. They heat with a wood fireplace/stove.  They have no running water and no indoor plumbing; and, no washer/dryer.  Water for their gardens, both flower and vegetable, is pumped up from the lake.  Water for their personal use (a 350 gallon tank) is brought in by truck.  When they leave for Quartzsite, they drain it.  Most of their furnishings for the cabin have been picked up from the dump.  In Whitehorse, the dump has a ?reuse? section where people drop off furnishing they don?t want.  If you want it, you just take it.  Laverne, the husband, is very handy, so he fixes up what he finds and makes good use of it.  Now if you think Laverne and Brenda have no money, that?s probably not true.  He worked many years for the airlines as Cargo Manager. They told us, they just decided to reuse/recycle and look at things a little differently.  I admire them, but don?t believe I would go so far as to use the outhouse in 0 degree weather.

We decide to stay another day and pay our $12.00 to be able to just sit in the sun, read and just do nothing.  Tim has been working on some carving, so we had wood chips to help start the evening fire.  Tuesday we drive to Watson Lake.

  Careful of the grizzlies.  Here's an article about what can happen if you aren't, I know that you are past Denali, but you are still in grizzly country.

Ed

http://www.heraldnet.com/article/20120825/NEWS03/708259917

Ok....back into internet land.  We left Watson Lake arriving at Liard Hot Springs around 3 in the afternoon.  Taking everyone's advice we filled up at Contact Creek east of Watson Lake to the tune of $1.28 per liter for diesel.  The campground at Liard Hot Springs is fantastic; big spread out sites with trees/bushes between the sites.  Many of the sites will accomodate 40'-45' rigs.  It is however dry camping.  Not knowing what we were getting into, we walked out to the hot springs area to check things out and see if we really wanted to get in.  There is a long boardwalk out to the actual springs.  They used to have both an A and B section, but the A section is now closed.  Even though it was cold with a light rain; we decided it was worth it, so went back to the coach and changed into our suits. 

The water was marvelous.  The river flows through and the springs comes out near the east side.  There is a boardwalk with several stairs down into the river.  There are also changing rooms so you can get out of your wet suits before walking back to the campground.  The closer you are in the water to the output of the springs, the hotter the water.  As you move away, the mixture gets cooler.  It was great for us because Tim doesn't like it too hot and I like it "lobster red" temps.

Next we drove to Muncho Lake.  There are 2 provincial parks there, as well as, a couple of commercial facilities.  We chose "MacDonald" campground.  There are only 15 sites each right along the lake front.  We pulled in facing the lake and stayed for 2 days.  It was $16.00/night

On day one we decided to have a campfire.  The wood in BC is not free like in the Yukon, so we paid $5.00 for a bundle.  It was wet and very large pieces and we had a devil of a time getting it started.  (We still have not bought an axe.)  After 2 rolls of scott towels, several handfuls of kleenex and nearly a ream of computer paper we got the darn thing started.  The next day we started a fire again but decide to be a bit smarter about it.  We acted like "hunter/gatherers" and picked up dead and downed small trees branches to get it going.  Voila` it took off great.  When the camp host stopped by to see how we were doing, he found out we had picked up stuff off the ground.....guess that's a "no-no" in Muncho Lake.  He warned us that it was a $500.00 fine if the Provincial Ranger caught us.  We apologized, through away our evidence and kept our fire going, enjoying hot dogs over the campfire and homemade chili.

The drive from Muncho Lake to Fort Nelson was beautiful with lots of trees, some steep grades and the mountain range.  We saw a young caribou that almost looked like he was lost.  He was along the road side and was so confused as to which way to go to avoid us.  We had stopped to a crawl.  Finally he bounded into the woods.  Then coming over Stone Mountain we saw a sigh to beware of "Stone Sheep" on the road.  Near the summit, we rounded a curve and there in the middle of the road were 10-12 stone sheep with lots of kids.  They were so cute.  We crept along trying not to scare them; but one baby leapt over the guard rail and I thought for sure, it was plunging down the steep embankment.  But no, he popped up and bounded along the other side.  Shortly mama hopped over the guard rail and off they went.

The road from Muncho Lake to Fort Nelson was full off all sorts of warning.  Within a few mile stretch, we saw yellow caution signs for elk, deer and caribou, falling rock and sheep warning.  The final straw was to watch out for "low flying aircraft" as the air strip was a grass section right along side the road. 

Tonight we are camped at Tripped G Hide away on the west side of Fort Nelson.  This is a funky campground with a lounge, restaurant, laundry and good wifi.  In the morning before I leave I plan to ask the managers the best location for fuel and the price.  Many folks, besides those here on the forum traveling to Alaska, have mentioned how expensive it is in this area.  The rumor has it that diesel is $1.99 per gallon.  If so, we'll wait until Fort St. Johns as their diesel is $1.30.

Pictures to follow.

Marsha~

Marsha:

If you read this in time there is a Flying J at Ft St John that used to be the best price up there but who knows these days.