Some 12v Device Current Measurements.

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Len and Jo

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Apr 25, 2005
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FYI
One of those get around to it projects.  Did some 12v current measurements:

6600R Fantastic Vent

Fan Speed, Amps
(Manual)
100%, 1.52A
50%, 0.52A
20%, 0.22A
10%, 0.10A
"OFF", 0.04A

Had replaced the two 9w florescent tubes in RR ceiling (SMB penthouse top) light fixture retro fitted with LED strips of about same lumen level---tad less but close.  Fixtures except for LED vs 2x9w florescent tubes are identical.

Rear LED light: 0.25A
Frt florescent light : 1.35A

Dash radio wired into house batteries: 0.08A when "OFF"
 
Hi Len and Jo,

One of the many projects I would like to do if figure out just what all is consuming what types of energy and try to come up with some ideas on the best way to stretch things out when dry camping. I am pretty sure I can stretch things out for two weeks and that would be my goal when camping. After that a trip for groceries, laundry, fuel, supplies would be in order before heading out for another two weeks.

I can see where a list will be essential or you'll have to go with out until next trip in to shop.

Don't know if they list devices on Roadtrek spects or manuals or not but will have to see and check out if they have any amps, volts and watts so things can be figured out. One thing I thought might be worth the extra weight is two more utility batteries for converting DC into AC energy where needed. Best!
 
Our van house battery bank consists of two 115 Ah batteries so allowing for a 50% max battery drain we can use 115Ah of battery life before being required to recharge.

Everything in the van except for the Fantastic Fan has a 'kill' switch on it, that includes the van dash radio that is wired to the house batteries.  There is also a master 'kill' switch that is used when the van is in long term storage for the winter.  I will  add a true OFF 'kill' switch to the roof fan to my to due list.
 
Greetings,

Someone said somewhere on the forum that batteries have about a 2% drain if not in use. I would imagine that would be in part from items pulling from the batteries just a bit while not running. Wonder if a kill switch would keep that 2% from happening. 2% isn't much over a day but two weeks out and it is fairly substantial. I realize that batteries can be charged when there is a need from generators or running your RV for a short while.

I like the idea of a kill switch on things. My type of thinking. Also good in the event of a short for safety.
 
All batteries will discharge even when disconnected.  Flooded cell batteries will discharge the quickest while AGM batteries will last a lot longer, but they all will eventually go dead.
 
Batteries have internal losses.  Many items you don't even think about when attached to the batteries have losses, even when not in use.  For example my Fantastic Vent even when turned "OFF" draws some power so it can respond to it remote control to turn "ON".  A kill switch makes it easy to assure that all electrical devices are disconnected from the house batteries when you put your rig in storage. 

I do not use wet cell batteries; my internal battery losses amounted to house batteries going from 12.70v at start of 4 month winter storage to 12.48v when I took the van out of storage.  Not last year but sometimes in the past I hook up a trickle charger to the house batteries to try and offset the batteries internal drain.
 

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