Bypass Norcold recall box?

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Arne

Arne

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Joined
Jan 18, 2009
Posts
81
My house batteries died today.  At the same time our 4 door Norcold refrigerator stopped working.  There is a solid red light on the Norcold recall box behind the refrigerator.  12 volts is reaching this box, and no current is leaving. 

I understand that the box must be replaced.  Hopefully I will figure out how to do so tomorrow.  Since this may take a while I would like to bypass this box until the replacement arrives.  (Our freezer is full of goodies).  I would appreciate it if somebody would tell me how to do this.

Thanks
Arne :mad:
 
Take the DC wire coming into "the box" and put it directly to your control board.  If I remember they are labeled.
 
Thanks that worked.  I replaced the blue cable going from the box to the control board by the yellow cable providing 12 volts to the box..  I now have a mobile rv repair guy cheking to see if i have a more serious problem.
ARNE
 
Good news.  The problem was in the recall box.  The tech had a replacement box.  The food in our freezer is saved!
Arne
 
you can reset the recall box by putting a big magnet on the back of it when the light goes red.  You will hear it "untrip" and reset
 
Now is an excellent time to install an ARP fridge controller. It will keep the fridge boiler in the optimum temperature range and shut it down if the boiler begins to overheat. The Norcold box doesn't trip until almost 800 F. and by then a fire can start.

See http://www.arprv.com/ for more info on absorption fridge temperature protection.

Sorry if this sounds like a commercial, but I've become convinced that the ARP is a valuable assist for preventing the cumulative damage that can occur in an absorption fridge, and also prevent the dreaded fridge fire while doing it.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
Now is an excellent time to install an ARP fridge controller. It will keep the fridge boiler in the optimum temperature range and shut it down if the boiler begins to overheat. The Norcold box doesn't trip until almost 800 F. and by then a fire can start.

See http://www.arprv.com/ for more info on absorption fridge temperature protection.

Sorry if this sounds like a commercial, but I've become convinced that the ARP is a valuable assist for preventing the cumulative damage that can occur in an absorption fridge, and also prevent the dreaded fridge fire while doing it.
Click to expand...

Gary
I took a quick look, it looks like they're selling it for all amonia fridges.
With as much time as I have spent over the years on a TT/popup forum and now here.... this is the first I've heard of this gizmo!  Thanks for the tip!!!!
I must admit the sales pitch makes me want one, and at the price it could be good insurance..... but I haveto wonder.... why have I not heard of this thing before?
 
I don't know why you haven't heard of it - lord knows we've discussed it here enough times in the past 8-10 months. But it is a new device, and it is not hyped with national advertising. CW doesn't sell it - the inventor (Paul Unmack) goes around to RV rallys with it and sells online as well.  Yes, it is designed to work with any absorption fridge - it was not designed just to stop Norcold fires. In fact, it was designed before the inventor even knew about the Norcold 12xx fire problem.

Paul Unmack spent a couple weeks in my yard last November and I had the opportunity to analyze the ARP closely and debate its merits and shortcoming with him. We measured its usage on my fridge, his own smaller Norcold, and a Dometic testbed cooling unit he carries around. It works as advertised.
 
Paul also installed an ARP unit on our new Amish cooling unit on our Dometic refrigerator last winter and we captured test data with that unit.  It did an excellent job of controlling the cooling unit temperatures, just as designed.
 
I'm Learning every day!
Mine is a N611RT, I don't now abpout the 12xx fire problem particularly yet, but even though I don't have that worry, I still like the idea of protecting my unit and fridge.  I have alrady had a couple occasions where my site was less than perfectly level.  It was sise to side, which by my understanding is the less sensitive direction, but still....
I appreciate the tip. 
I've got a question out to the company about what is included in the remote control unit price vs the standard unit.....(I really don't understand if I really need the remote, but....)

anyway, very likely on my short list.
 
You don't NEED the remote, but us anal-retentive types sometimes like to watch how the thing works. The remote is a data logging device that captures the data as the ARP sees it,transferring the data via a USB cable in real time. You have to hook it to a running PC and the PC makes an Excel spreadsheet of temperature vs time. That's all - no extra features or controls, cause the ARP is fully automatic. Mostly the remote data logger is used to diagnose malfunctioning fridges.
 
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