Battery Disconnect Solenoid - Parasitic Draw

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ontheroadnow

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Joined
Jul 12, 2011
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22
Hi Folks,

RV is a 93 Fleetwood Southwind

I think I found the problem for the parasitic draw on the Chassis Battery and I want to be sure of this before i order a new one here http://www.shopfleetwoodparts.com/Battery-Disconnect-Solenoid_p_77.html

The Multi meter indicated a 4amp draw then went to .002 when I pulled the 10Amp fuse for the  Battery Disconnect Solenoid. (I believe it to be the chassis Battery Disconnect Solenoid not the Coach Battery Disconnect Solenoid.

Questions.

1. Should the Chassis Battery Disconnect Solenoid continuously draw 4 amps or is it stuck and needs replaced?

2. I only found 1 fuse for the Battery Disconnect Solenoid. It indicates it's for the Chassis  Battery Disconnect Solenoid. Does the Coach Battery Disconnect Solenoid has a fuse too or do they both use the same fuse?

Thank You.

 
I would think there is something else connected on that fuse circuit as 4 amps seems like a lot for just the solenoid.  Before  buying another disconnect I would  disconnect the solenoid and see if you still have a draw.
 
I agree with tvman. A latching relay shouldn't draw anything once it's latched and you let up on the switch. Having said that, it could be the momentary switch that's remaining in a closed position. Pull the switch legs off the relay and see if the draw goes away.
 
I seriously doubt that it's the solenoid that is causing the problem.  The disconnect solenoids are mechanically latching solenoids and should NOT draw any (coil) current once activated or deactivated.  If the activation signal is constantly present and causing a current draw, then something else is wrong.

If you do purchase the solenoid in your link, make sure it's compatible with your physical Battery Control Center (BCC) Box layout.  That solenoid appears to be of a much newer design than those used in the '93 era Fleetwoods.


OOOPS!.. I didn't mean to duplicate Dennis' post.  I'm just a slower typist.
 
I do agree, no current draw should be the norm.

Though they do make both magnetic latching and electric latching relays.  The Disconnects I am familure with use the magnetic king, when the thing is not changing state there is no voltage across, and thus no current to, the coil, in fact it is completly disconnected.

This type of disconnect the swtich is a 3 position, spring return to center, (OFF) double pole, double throw switch.  Current through the coil is not normal.

Now Isolator solinoids,, Those may be active (Electric, non-latching) but they should only engage when charging current is present so who cares.  and closer to 1 amp.
 
To Clarify, the 4amp draw is present with the chassis battery switch in the on position and a .002 draw in the off position.

Question? Will I cause any damage if disconnect all the wires connected to the chassis Battery Disconnect Solenoid then do an amp test on the multimeter?

I assume if i do that and the 4amp draw goes away then it's a faulty Solenoid correct?

Just a thought. I have the House battery removed to isolate the draw on the chassis battery. What if I swap out the Chassis Battery Disconnect Solenoid with the house Battery Disconnect Solenoid. They look identical. Then see if the 4amp draw comes off the swapped solenoid as well? 

Thank you.
 
Pull all three wires off the solenoid and jumper the two battery leads together.  If the current remains the solenoid is not the issue. I would think if the solenoid itself were puilling 4 amps it would be hot to the touch.
 
The solenoid is NOT the problem.  Your disconnects are working FINE.....

When the disconnect switch is ON (the top of switched depressed) it means the battery is ON. 

If there are any loads they will show up as a current drain.  When the switch is OFF (the battery OFF) the path is interrupted (meaning the solenoid has done it's job) the path from battery to load is interrupted and the current drain is gone.

You need to find the device/circuit that is causing the drain.

Does your BCC box (the box where the solenoids are located) look like this?   

 

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This is the panel. The previous owner was an electrician and sprayed the contacts to keep them from corroding,
 

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I just returned from performing another parasitic draw test on every fuse, switch etc. and have a question about the 4-Terminal Battery Switch in my BCC.  (picture provided)

With the Main Chassis battery switch in the "on" position, the positive + terminal connected to the chassis battery, negative  - terminal to the chassis battery in my left hand, I touch the - terminal to the - battery post  and with my right hand index finger feel the chassis 4-Terminal Battery Switch click and at the same time draw 4amps.

Perhaps it's not the Solenoid drawing the 4amps. Should the 4-Terminal Battery Switch be clicking on and staying on or is it's function to turn on when one turns the key to start the motor then switch off? 

Thank you.
 

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If it is not a latching type relay, it will continue to draw power to hold the relay engaged. The 4 amps sounds a little high for that, but that's a matter of the design of the relay. A typical "starter" type relay is intended for short term closing and will not be made so that it "latches" in the closed position. A relay designed to be a battery disconnect would normally be the latching type, drawing no further power once it is engaged.

The Fleetwood Parts photo shows a typical disconnect relay, whereas the previous post looks more like a common (and less expensive) starter type relay.
 
If your main (chassis) battery switch (the switch itself) is a momentary switch (one that returns to the center position once pushed) then it is controlling a latching relay. If the switch itself clicks in to the on position and stays, then the relay it is controlling would normally be a non latching type and the coil would draw current when the switch is on.
 
ontheroadnow said:
I just returned from performing another parasitic draw test on every fuse, switch etc. and have a question about the 4-Terminal Battery Switch in my BCC.  (picture provided)

With the Main Chassis battery switch in the "on" position, the positive + terminal connected to the chassis battery, negative  - terminal to the chassis battery in my left hand, I touch the - terminal to the - battery post  and with my right hand index finger feel the chassis 4-Terminal Battery Switch click and at the same time draw 4amps.

Perhaps it's not the Solenoid drawing the 4amps. Should the 4-Terminal Battery Switch be clicking on and staying on or is it's function to turn on when one turns the key to start the motor then switch off? 

Thank you.
Click to expand...

In your particular BCC, the only solenoids that look like the one you show in your post are:
  • The Ignition relay (the upper left solenoid in your previous  BCC photo)
  • The aux-start/charge/isolator relay (the lower right solenoid in that photo)
  • The other two are your disconnect solenoids.
Please don't call the solenoid and relays switches as it just adds confusion.  When we discuss switches here, we are referring to manually operated switches.

Now to address your question:
  • The ignition relay/solenoid (this is what I think you are calling the four terminal switch) should only energize when the ignition key is turned ON.
  • The aux-start/charge solenoid should only energize when you press and hold the aux-start switch or when there is a charge voltage of >13.2vdc sensed from converter or alternator.
NOTE:  Did you receive the e-mail I sent offering schematics and trouble shooting procedures?
 
Waterdog, your post was spot on. Thank You. I checked the battery disconnect switch and it was stuck in the on position when it should have returned to the center. No more 4Amp draw. I'm not sure if the spring broke inside or whatever happened inside? It's a Sigma LR-20985. The switch still functions but just wont spring back to the middle position without me doing it. I'll be ordering a new one.

Just Lou, I couldn't get your e-mail because that web is under maintenance. Thank you and everyone for your inputs.

I just have one question that I'm curious about. If I shut shut both the house and chassis batteries off via the Disconnect switches, why am i still able to start the motor using the ignition. Is that normal?   

 
ontheroadnow said:
If I shut shut both the house and chassis batteries off via the Disconnect switches, why am i still able to start the motor using the ignition. Is that normal? 
Click to expand...

It is normal if your BCC is at the proper release level.  The ability to start the engine without first activating the manual disconnect switch (by the entry door) was not common on a Fleetwood MH until about 1999, via a new release circuit board.  I'm not sure that the newer release board is applicable to our BCC. 

Are you sure that, by returning the switch (to what you call the center position) that you haven't just deactivated/unlatched the chassis disconnect solenoid and removed the current draw? 

I think you still have an activated (or contacts welded closed) on your ignition solenoid.

Try swapping the coach battery wall switch with the chassis battery switch and see if the problem is still resolved on both battery banks.
 
If I shut shut both the house and chassis batteries off via the Disconnect switches, why am i still able to start the motor using the ignition. Is that normal?   
Click to expand...

That might be possible but unlikely. It depends on how the Disconnect switch is wired or that it too, might be defective... Another one of the mysteries of RV wiring. Get the diagrams offered by Just Lou and everything may become clear.

Never ending huh??

 
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