New project>> replacing the Norcold 1201 with a residential fridge

We just began our summer escape from Texas when it became apparent that our four-door Norcold was struggling to keep the interior at nominal temperatures.  We had to run it on the highest setting (nine) to keep the freezer at ~0* and the fridge part at 38*.  After some tests and investigation, it became apparent we most likely had a cooling unit that was beginning to fail.

You can buy a brand new (and redesigned) cooling unit (built by the Amish) for about $1100.  Replacing the cooling unit as a DIY project is quite a bit of work - you have to pull the entire fridge out, remove the old cooling unit, install the new one, re-install.  About a full-day job.

We're visiting with friends near Independence, VA and fortunately my good buddy Bob here is quite the tinkerer and craftsman so
I decided it was time to move to a residential fridge as others have gone before me.

We decided on a Frigidaire LGHT1837 NF (18 cu. ft.) bought from the nearby Lowe's - it was selling for around $700.  We will have to do a little tweaking on the cabinetry since the height of the new fridge is about two inches taller than the opening.  I've taken a bunch of pictures and will make this a detailed project write-up, but don't have the time at the moment.  In the interim, here's a couple of fun pix.

Welcome to the 21st Century

Look forward to following this thread.  The Amish unit is on our radar currently.

John,
You are simply going to love the new  refrigerator and wonder why you waited so long.  The cooling and extra  capacity is wonderful after having put up with the RV refrigerator for so long. It does take a bit of creativity and talent to do the install.  Be sure to  place an outside  drain  valve in it.  We used  the existing one.

I love love love the extra freezer capacity.  Enjoy!  and Yes it is hard work and a mess but it will be worth it.

Betty

Thanks guys!

I have mixed emotions about getting rid of the Norcold that will run on propane for those infrequent moments when we're boondocking, but the liability of the absorbed gas Norcold reefer (high maintenance and high $$ for repairs) was a deciding factor to go electric.

The new unit will be delivered tomorrow, then we have to get it into the interior and have to make it fit.  Big challenge.

What?!   Even after mly2054 told us how unreliable domestic refrigerators are for RV use, you still are going to install one? Some folks just don't listen. ;D

Betty,
Would you mind explaining the purpose of the outside drain valve that you mentioned? I am unclear what its purpose would be.

Thank you,
Pete

Since most stick & brick kitchens don't have drains near the refrigerator, home units drain their condensation to an evaporator pan on top of the compressor.  Water collects there, then evaporates from motor heat as the refrigerator runs.

But when you're going down the road, having an open pan half full of water sloshing about can make a mess, so it's a good idea to extend the condensation drain tube to the outside of the rig - through the floor if the refrigerator is sitting on it, or through the outside door if the refrigerator is up on a pedestal.

Crimping the end of the extended tubing so there's only a few weep holes, or installing a partially closed valve, will keep insects from migrating inside.

Lou,
Thanks. I wonder if, since the fridge is in a slide out in John's case, would it work to just run the drain hose out the lower fridge vent opening or will there not be enough of a pitch?

Pete

John, are you installing another converter to just run the refer? What about batteries? 

Hadn't thought about a condensate drain - thanks for the head's up.

Marty,  the Norcold would pull up to 750 watts from the inverter (~6 amps) - we always ran it on electric (via the inverter) except when boondocking to save propane.  The new fridge will be pulling about 500 watts, so we're in good shape with the current Xantrex inverter and AGM batteries.

Boondocking will be another adventure with an electric fridge, I'll have to see how we do at nighttime.  I have auto gen start on low voltage trigger, but I wouldn't want to run the genny at night.

Boondocking in a non-commercial campground with restricted generator hours could present a big problem.  At the Teklanika campground in Denali NP (Alaska), generators hours were 8a-10a and 4p-6p if I remember correctly.  Without lots of solar panels, that scenario probably wouldn't work well for our three battery bank.

As I mull over the decision, I think it was the correct one.  Winnebago probably wants $1500 for a replacement cooling unit, labor would be 8 hours x ~$100 or $2300 to repair a seven year old fridge.  That didn't make a lot of sense to me.

The fridge gets delivered this morning.  Going to see if the I can slip the delivery guys a few bucks to help get it in the coach.

The evaporator pan seldom has much water in a modern fridge. There isn't all that much condensation in newer units and what there is evaporates as it is created. Take a look at your Fridgidaire's evaporator design, but if it is like others I have seen in recent years, "sloshing" will be a non-issue.

Our Norcold 1200 continues to work like a charm.  On a setting of 5 it keep ice cream frozen in the freezer @ around 5 degrees and the fridge section runs 33-38. But if it ever gives trouble, it's outa there!

John,

Good luck with the swap out. I'm looking forward to your write up.

Our Norcold 611 control board took a holiday so we did the swap too.  For the price to replace the board and service fees we had a Whirlpool 9.6 cu-ft residential installed.  With a new unit, two year warranty and more room for about the same price, it was a no brainer.  It also helps that we do not dry camp, so shore power is always available and we have the gen back up.

John what does it draw when in defrost mode. You made a great point about adding in the price of labor for Winne to install it. I mentioned this next idea a few years ago and you correctly mentioned the fact that a pure 12 volt boat fridge (not absorption type) would be two power hungry, but now with RR being put in RVs the extra battery's needed to make them run that a mute point. The reason I am mentioning this is I want to look into a 12 volt boat fridge like I had on my 43 Albin. Going down the road the alternator makes all the amps needed to keep the 12 volt units going. I am not saying its the best way to go but I will concider it before I make my decision. It worked well & was made so the door would not open even in heavy seas. I am afraid we will all at some time have to make a decision about our refrigerators. Art

Gary RV Roamer said:

The evaporator pan seldom has much water in a modern fridge. There isn't all that much condensation in newer units and what there is evaporates as it is created. Take a look at your Fridgidaire's evaporator design, but if it is like others I have seen in recent years, "sloshing" will be a non-issue.

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There is a large plastic pan underneath that takes up about 1/2 of the footprint, the more surface area, the faster the water will evaporate.  We located the drain tube, rerouted it, and we'll get 1/2" OD plastic hose to insert into the fridge drain and run outside the old sidewall vent opening.  I would not want to take a chance that water in the evap pan would be an issue - much easier to deal with it right now.

Our Norcold 1200 continues to work like a charm.  On a setting of 5 it keep ice cream frozen in the freezer @ around 5 degrees and the fridge section runs 33-38. But if it ever gives trouble, it's outa there!

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If our Norcold was as happy as yours, it could have lived here longer  .

GMascelli said:

Good luck with the swap out. I'm looking forward to your write up.

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Thanks!!

Art In Mobile said:

John what does it draw when in defrost mode.

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Art - no mention of that anywhere in the specs, but the nameplate says 6.0 amps and I suspect that is the max continuous draw most likely with defrost running.  The compressor is probably drawing 4-5 amps after start.

..I want to look into a 12 volt boat fridge like I had on my 43 Albin. Going down the road the alternator makes all the amps needed to keep the 12 volt units going. I am not saying its the best way to go but I will concider it before I make my decision. It worked well & was made so the door would not open even in heavy seas. I am afraid we will all at some time have to make a decision about our refrigerators. Art

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I had a buddy with a 40' Albin - fabulous trawler, that would have been our RV if DW wanted to get back on the water.  We had 12V refrig on our last two boats and the key to making 12V refrigeration somewhat successful when cruising is >=4" of ice chest insulation.

My buddy that's helping me with the swap-out had a 65' steel houseboat that he brought from Cincinnati to Daytona Beach many years ago.  They were liveaboards and we were liveaboards on the same dock and got to be good friends.  We were kidding about adding an engine driven holding plate reefer/freezer instead of the residential fridge.

Lowe's finally arrived about 2PM with our new fridge - just two hours late  :.  The very first thing I did when I saw the two fellows was to hand each of them a $20 bill and explain this delivery was a little different.  The tip worked like a charm.  Not one peep out of them about the challenge ahead.  There was were  the two Lowe's guys, me and my buddy horsing the fridge in the coach. NOT ONE ISSUE GETTING IT INSIDE - WHOO-HOO!

I did remove the screen door, co-pilot chair, long grab rail on the aft side of the door opening, plastic grab handle in the dash area, laptop Jotto Desk though in preparation.  The delivery guys removed the Frigidaire doors.

Tomorrow we head back to Lowe's to buy some 1/2" plywood for the new floor where the fridge will sit, and some luan to cover up the top vent opening in the sidewall.  It appears we will have the fridge in place and going by end of tomorrow.

Gary RV Roamer said:

The evaporator pan seldom has much water in a modern fridge. There isn't all that much condensation in newer units and what there is evaporates as it is created. Take a look at your Fridgidaire's evaporator design, but if it is like others I have seen in recent years, "sloshing" will be a non-issue.

Click to expand...

Gary

Sloshing is a problem in the curvy roads in the mountains or on hard stops.  Russ M. forgot to attach the outside drain & had wet floors from the water sloshing out the pan.

So far we have not had an issue with water in the evaporation pan. This week in very wet Oregon will be a test. Monaco did not put in a drain tube. I could add one by drilling through the floor of the slide at the outside edge where it would go outside even if the slide was in, but I am waiting to see if it is needed.

ken

Almost finished.  Had the new fridge plugged in and working at about 1400 hours today. Two poplar trim strips were cut, we did a round-over on one edge with a router and stained (temporary trim) , we will install those tomorrow.  When we get back home in the fall, I'll buy some cherry, plane it down to 3/8" or 1/2", rout a nice decorative edge and install.  Poplar is a great semi-hard wood for cleats, runners and stuff behind the scenes, but not ideal for a showcase wood.  No surprises with the install, thorough planning prevented any holy cow! moments.

The new Frigidaire cooled down quickly and DW was moving food to it from the surrogate/proxy reefers about an hour or two after we got it energized.

It might take two or three weeks before I can document the process - we're out here having fun  .

Nice job John,

How do you intend to  secure doors closed while in route? Believe me you will need something to hold those doors shut on curves and  bumps.

Betty

Yup, been thinking about that.  I bought a couple of universal fridge child-proof locks but they won't work for this situation.  Going to go with Velcro straps.